Pharisee

I don't know anywhere in Milton Keynes but you could do worse than The Electric Transport Shop in Cambridge. https://www.electricbikesales.co.uk/cambridgestore

I have a 905se that uses the same batteries (14Ah). I bought a second battery when I bought the bike as I often cycle from my home in Bedfordshire to Bookham in Surrey. On a realistic 'road trip' like that I only get a usable range of about 30-35 miles per battery (medium power assist and pedalling all the time) so I needed two. My bike occasionally 'hesitates' for about a second or so as the motor stops driving... certainly not for 4 seconds, thought. It does this with both batteries and has done from new. One battery failed completely after a couple of months and was replaced under warranty. The bike had the same problem with the replacement battery. The complete rear wheel / motor assembly has been replaced under warranty as has the motor controller and pedal sensor in an attempt to cure the problem but it still exists. I've come to accept that it's something I'm not going to cure and have learned to live with it. The bike is 4.1/2 years old now but the batteries still seem to have the same capacity as they did when new. They are kept fully charged and are charged immediately after use. I think that important if you want your batteries to last.

On one of my previous electric bikes, I cut a length of broomstick and dropped it down the frame tube. The saddle tube stopped against that and the clamp only needed to be tight enough to stop the saddle from turning. You may need a couple of attempts to get the length right.

I had a similar screeching 'resonance' on my 905 City. It turned out to be the plastic chainguard. The chainguard was made in two parts, one sliding inside the other to give some length adjustment. The two parts being clamped together with a screw and nut. At certain frequencies, the two parts rubbed / vibrated against each other producing the annoying screech. The solution was simply to glue the two parts together once the correct length had been established.

This probably won't help a great deal but as no-one else has answered.... The controller on my 905se City S has a pair of white wires that end in a small plug and socket with a loop of white wire that effectively connects the two wires together. Removing that shorting link will remove the 15 mph restriction. Don't expect it to make a great difference, though. With the restriction removed, my 905 will pull along a level road at 18-20 mph without me pedalling. http://www.whatfunnyhat.com/images/controller-1.JPG http://www.whatfunnyhat.com/images/controller-2.JPG

I have two 14Ah batteries for my 905se City S. They're both 3.1/2 years old now and I've noticed no degradation in performance or range. They get used frequently and as a lot of my cycling is across country on by-ways and bridal paths, they're not used lightly. The 'spare' fits nicely on the carrier rack and they give me a usable range of around 60-70 miles. They are always re-charged as soon as I return home, irrespective of how much they've been used and are never left in a discharged or half charged state. I believe that's secret to keeping them in good condition. At over 500 of our fine British quids apiece, you have to look after them!!

Even with the old analogue TV system, I think you'd need to be pedalling around their living room for it to have had a noticeable effect. With the new digital transmissions, cycling along the road outside their house will have no effect what-so-ever.

I had similar problems that proved to be bad wiring connections in the 'box' under the battery. I replaced all the rubbish multi-pin connectors with water-resistant bullet connectors as used on Japanese motorcycles. I also removed the ferrite 'chokes' that are installed around some of the wires and have noticed no ill effect from doing so. That gives you just a little more room for the wiring and connectors. I did this about 18 months ago and have covered many trouble free miles since.

Stainless cables won't go rusty but it's no substitute for a little regular maintenance.

I've not experienced any 'surging' but every now and again the motor cuts out completely for a brief interval whilst I'm pedalling... probably only for a second but long enough to be noticable, especially up hill. The LEDs on the handlebar indicator go out briefly at the same time. I've never really got to the root of the problem. Both the rear wheel / motor assembly and the controller have been changed under warranty for different reasons but the problem remained. I have two batteries and I get the problem irrespective of which one is installed. I've disconncted the switches in the brake levers... that made no difference. As I mentioned earlier, I've replaced the white plastic multi pin connectors on the main battery lead and the motor power cable to no avail. I'll replace the multi-pin connector on the motor sensor leads next. After that.... your guess is as good as mine but I'll probably replace the pedelec sensor. My bike is a 905se City, by the way.

An easy way to lube a control cable is to disconnect it from the handlebar lever, pour some thin oil into a small plastic bag and put the end on the cable and outer sleeve into the bag as well. Twist the open end of the bag around the cable and secure with insulation tape, turn it upside down and gently squeeze the bag to force the oil through the cable. A bit messy but it gets the job done.

The rear light on my 905 is self contained and has no external connectors but the front light is connected to the main battery by two tiny spade connectors. As you say, these become disconnected from time to time. I took the easy way out and soldered the wires directly to the male connectors on the lamp and covered them with a short length of heat shrink tube. A bit drastic, maybe, but easy enough to un-solder should I ever need to remove the lamp. I've also replaced some of the 'dodgy' multi-pin connector blocks in the controller enclosure with water 'resistant', insulated bullet connectors as used on modern Japanese motorcycles after suffering some intermittant connection problems.

On closer inspection, I noticed that the red wire from the battery connector had, at some time, been trapped between the controller case and the bike frame. The insulation had been flattened and while the conductor wasn't visible, I thought it best to replace the wire. I also took the opportunity to replace the 'white block' connectors on this cable and the motor power cable with individual, insulated bullet connectors as used on modern motorcycles. I also removed the three ferrite chokes on the motor power cable. With the space saved, I was able to replace the controller easily. So far, the only difference I've noticed after quite a few miles travelled is that the intermittent, brief, power loss that had occasionally occurred has so far not materialised.... which has to be good and was, I suspect, probably due to the dodgy white connector blocks. So far... so good!

Hi y'all, Earlier today I took the rear wheel off my 905se to put a new tyre on. I know you can do this without disconnecting anything but as I wanted to give it a good clean as well, I took the covers off the controller box and unplugged the motor cable (a large white 3 pin connector and a smaller black 5 pin connector) so that I could take the wheel away from the bike. The controller compartment is a bit short of space, to say the least, and of course, I had trouble getting everything back in. I noticed that a number of the wires had quite large grey, plastic components around them. I'm assuming that they are some sort of ferrite choke. Are they some sort of radio interference suppressor and really necessary? It would be much easier to get all the wires back in if these chokes could be discarded. John

They're generally called 'Ty-Wraps' or 'Cable ties'. Available in many sizes from many places. I got some from my local Maplins store.