I've just been speaking to Andrew. He's away from home at the moment, which is why he couldn't post your PAS. he'll post it on Monday.

Just trying to install the PAS. I've removed one side using an 8mm hex. Can't seem to pull the other end of the crank out. Hit it a few times with a rubber mallet but to luck. Any ideas?

Few more pics attached

Relealised I have a 3 piece crank and there are more screws on the drive side crank holding the crank and chain rings together. Does anyone know the correct bb remove tool?

Looks fairly standard to me, on the non drive side undo the black lock ring outer bearing/ nut with castellated edge, take the chain off the chain ring and the whole unit with chain rings and crank arm should slide out from the drive side as one along with the fixed shaft.

I don't think it's going to work. You might be able to use a conventional PAS sensor that fits behind the bearing-holder, then cut the middle out of the magnet disc and glue the rest to the inner chain-ring - something like this:

 

http://i451.photobucket.com/albums/qq236/d8veh/Rocky/Magnetdiskonchainset.jpg

 

Swap the sensor to the other side of the bracket so that it reaches forward instead of back:

 

http://i451.photobucket.com/albums/qq236/d8veh/rocky%202/20140510_191851_zpsa080871e.jpg

 

Or you can make your own bracket for the sensor and mount it however you like:

 

http://i451.photobucket.com/albums/qq236/d8veh/Rocky/passensorbrkt.jpg

Cheers guys, turns out it is a two piece crank. once I get the crank off I'll see what orientation fits if any! still unsure of the tool I need to remove the black lock ring then the bottom bracket. Found this detailing how it comes apart.

 

http://www.srsuntour-cycling.com/fileadmin/user_upload/Downloads/Consumer/Bike/Owners%20manuals/2015/SRS-TSI-CW-XCRd-01-140514.pdf

Hi the noise my bike makes has gotten worse. Sounds like it's coming from the controller but it's difficult to tell as it only makes it when I'm sat on the bike. Occurs when accelerating then goes away at top speed. Still just using the throttle. Couldn't upload the video on here so made a YouTube link

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=boUzhkEXLeY

PAS finally fitted I ended up contacting suntour who told me I needed a TL-FC32 shimano hollowtech 2 bb removal tool and to just remove the black lock ring with a set of pliers. In order to fit the ring sensor I had to remove the small chain ring which I've found is pretty useless on this bike anyway. Unfortunately the PAS doesn't magnetise to the larger chain ring like it did the small so have used some mini cable ties for now but will get hold of some glue or screw it in to the holes left by screws that attached the small chain ring.

 

Pretty sure it's the controller making the annoying noise. Checked all the cables. Tightened the axel but it still persists at each PAS setting.

 

Interestingly while playing around with the LCD settings I discovered a PAS level 7. Don't know how I managed to select it but I didn't notice it being any faster. When I lowered the PAS I couldn't get it back so never got to test it out fully!

That doesn't sound right Brit, mine sounds a bit growly sometimes but your noise is more of a resonating noise, sounds like the phase out of cinque or a bad connection. Double check the motor wheel connection other wise contact Andrew and ask him to listen to the clip.

Had another go with tightening up the axel a bit more and readjusted the breaks today and voila the noise has disappeared. So chuffed. The bike is a joy to ride. Thank you everyone that has helped.

My error 02 showed up again yesterday during my 64 mile partly very damp ride then I had 07 motor stall occur, after a reset 02 reoccurred with a power conflict that required the use of the brake cut off to prevent the bike surging without my command .

Following a drier spell the fault cleared and later on all systems were back to normal .

Back home I checked pas sensor and all the flexi sealant appeared to be in place , next was dismantle the throttle and check but again all inside appeared god and dry.

 

This morning whilst removing the controller for a look in to changing it over to a KT , I had to disconnect the multi pin harness cable from the lcd and inside the connector I found the likely cause of my issues. Evident was the tell tale sign of a green stain patch from one of the copper pin outs at the bottom and on the side of male harness connector where moisture/rain droplets have been getting in and settling , so looks as if the conflict/ shorting of the electrics has been occurring here. Stupidly I didn't check the pin out as to whether it was the 5v or throttle pin as I had by then gunked in some non conductive grease to hopefully resist future issues. The connector isn't 100% water proof so I will probably put a wrap or three of amalgamating tape around until I retro fit the controller and wiring.

Edited September 21, 20178 yr by Nealh

Hi,

 

I have the OXYDrive F-series 13Ah conversion kit

when I turn on the battery the lcd start flashing and acting up.

it keeps rebooting and display invalid battery voltage, like 18V.

See this short video:

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/cQkypaAU3PNB6GHi2

 

I checked all the cables are tight and connected. A voltage meters shows stable 38V on battery. I tried to disconnect the motor and it was still flashing.

I guess this leaves with 3 things: controller, lcd or something else.

 

likes like the controller is out of stock, does anyone know where to get it from other thab oxydrive.co.uk?

 

Anyone?

I'd take a wild guess at the battery connectors being eroded. Have a look at both sides.

I'd take a wild guess at the battery connectors being eroded. Have a look at both sides.

 

All connectors are good as new ... removed the controller and it was slit in half

 

Does anyone know where can i buy a new one?

Controllers are lishui, the kit is supplied by Daskit in Germany.

http://www.das-kit.com/

My controller eventually went tits up, after the growling noise it made. The LVC kept cutting in despite having two charged batteries so the lcd kept swiching off.

In the end I kept the batteries and and hub motor and now use KT controllers etc.

A KT controller with LCD will work but you will have to do a lot of soldering and joining of wires. I guess that will be the same with any controller other than the Oxydrive one.

 

The only chance now of getting a replacement controller is from SYEBC in Rotherham. Your controller is identical in all respects to the one fitted to the previous version of the Oxygen Emate MTB. I'd be surprised if they don't still have spares.

Hi all,

 

I am hoping someone here would have a quick answer for me. I have this kit installed on my wife's Decathlon bike - http://www.oxydrive.co.uk/electric-bike-kit/oxydrive-rc-11ah.html.

 

I am now seeing signs of metal stress in the front fork dropouts and am concerned that this is going to fail soon. So what I am thinking of doing is moving the kit to the rear wheel, and so I am now trying to check if there is any particular limits as to what hub motor I can use assuming it is also 36V. I have asked Andrew if he could supply only a rear wheeled motor and am waiting for a reply. In the meantime I am wondering if there would be any issues with a 36V rear wheeled motor from another supplier if Andrew can't do? Am I over complicating this or missing anything?

You can fit any rear motor as long as it has hall sensors, which is most of them. That's the easy bit. Now it gets more complicated.

 

If you have cassette gears (8 speed or more), you need a cassette motor (spline for cassette). If you have 7-speed or less, you need a freewheel motor (thread for free-wheel).

 

You need a motor with a nine-pin connector unless you don't mind cutting off the connectors and soldering the nine wires together.

 

You need a motor with an internal speed sensor unless you don't mind hacking the wiring at the controller end to splice in an external speed sensor.

 

I don't know anybody in the UK that sells a motor wheel on its own, so you have to get one from China, which is no problem, but shipping is expensive for complete wheels.

 

If I were in your position, I'd buy a 260 rpm Q100H as bare motor and get it built into a rim in the UK. that will cost £100 for the motor, maybe £15 duty, £30 for the rim and spokes and about £30 for building unless you can do it yourself. There's a 201 rpm version as well that will have better climbing efficiency, but max speed is only about 15 mph.

https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/631-q100h-36v350w-rear-driving-ebike-hub-motor-ebike-kit.html?search_query=q100h&results=5#/327-rpm-260

 

If you have cassette gears, it's the Q100C, which only comes in 201 rpm flavour, so slower than the Q100H.

 

On Aliexpress, there are all sorts of weird and wonderful motors that would do the job. You just have to search through all the listings.

Many thanks for taking the time to reply so quick and with so much detail. I have some homework to do I see! So if I get a motor as suggested with a 9-pin connector then I assume the current controller will work and along with that the rest of the kit as well?

Or replace the Decathlon's forks with a fork with meaty dropouts. If it is 700c then a Suntour NEX fork is very good, I have a bpm in one with over 2k miles done and no signs of fatigue

So if I get a motor as suggested with a 9-pin connector then I assume the current controller will work and along with that the rest of the kit as well?

yes

yes

Perfect, thanks!

Or replace the Decathlon's forks with a fork with meaty dropouts. If it is 700c then a Suntour NEX fork is very good, I have a bpm in one with over 2k miles done and no signs of fatigue

 

Yes, I also considered getting another fork but would really need to be confident that it will not fail as it is my wife who will be using the bike most of the time. I was not sure what fork to consider but will take a look at the Suntour you suggested. Do you have a torque arm you can recommend for use with this fork?