Dont hold back wheezy . Which one is the signal Plz ? Please Leave Me out of your verbal battles I need all 3 of your input

 

Don't worry about us Mike, we're just a bunch of cantankerous old men who aren't getting any younger, and are certainly not getting any prettier

 

I wanted to have a proper look before I posted, I didn't want to be saying the first thing that came into my head so this morning I did some testing.

 

As you know, there are 6 wires, Yellow, Brown, Green, White, Black and Red.

 

The switch on the throttle unit activates the yellow and brown wires. The brown wire is at battery voltage.

 

Yellow and Green are connected together on the controller board.

 

Black is ground. Red is about 5V, but this is only active if the throttle unit switch is closed.

 

As Nealh suspected, the white wire is the throttle signal wire and I measured this to vary between 0.8 and 3.6V, from the throttle being in the off position to fully on.

 

You can poke your multimeter probe tips into the backs of the controller/throttle connectors when they are connected. Do this on opposite connectors to avoid shorting the probes. This way you can check the throttle without the motor being connected.

 

I'm not sure which wires correspond to the LED voltage gauge, I imaging it will be the green wire, but I will need to do a bit more testing to pin that down for certain.

Don't worry about us Mike, we're just a bunch of cantankerous old men who aren't getting any younger, and are certainly not getting any prettier

 

I wanted to have a proper look before I posted, I didn't want to be saying the first thing that came into my head so this morning I did some testing.

 

As you know, there are 6 wires, Yellow, Brown, Green, White, Black and Red.

 

The switch on the throttle unit activates the yellow and brown wires. The brown wire is at battery voltage.

 

Yellow and Green are connected together on the controller board.

 

Black is ground. Red is about 5V, but this is only active if the throttle unit switch is closed.

 

As Nealh suspected, the white wire is the throttle signal wire and I measured this to vary between 0.8 and 3.6V, from the throttle being in the off position to fully on.

 

You can poke your multimeter probe tips into the backs of the controller/throttle connectors when they are connected. Do this on opposite connectors to avoid shorting the probes. This way you can check the throttle without the motor being connected.

 

I'm not sure which wires correspond to the LED voltage gauge, I imaging it will be the green wire, but I will need to do a bit more testing to pin that down for certain.

ThAnks . I was jokin really . I quite enjoy your verbal jousting haha .

Won’t look at throttle till I redo all cable tests prob Sunday

Sorry if it’s hidden in these posts somewhere but for cable tests does it makes Any difference which colour probe goes to motor and controller end .? I get a beep on all for continuity. But for cross wire all’s ok no beeps but some cross wire checks show 1 , and some show readings in the hundreds Is that normal ??

I’m redoing halls and mosfets then to power cable

Edited August 16, 20205 yr by mikeconnect

Mosfets double checked call showing 400s to ground and 1 to power

Phase wires . There’s 2 blue and 2 green going into the motor. 2 from motor to cable and 2 from motor to PCB . Are all 4 supposed to be continuous with cable at controller end ? And secondly do I need to disconnect the phase wires from the controller connection to test the cable ?

Just this test motor to controller end then I wZnt to di vfrs way too at controller end

Edited August 16, 20205 yr by mikeconnect

Try to summarise now all tests

1. All halls tested for short and continuity

2. Phase wires beep from motor to controller end and across colour too

3. Phase wires beep cross colour at controller connection

4. MOSFETs phase wires show readings of 1 on power and 400 ISH on ground

 

NB .. phase wires from controller were still connected to long cable to motor for these tests. I hope that's ok

Don't worry about us Mike, we're just a bunch of cantankerous old men who aren't getting any younger, and are certainly not getting any prettier

 

I wanted to have a proper look before I posted, I didn't want to be saying the first thing that came into my head so this morning I did some testing.

 

As you know, there are 6 wires, Yellow, Brown, Green, White, Black and Red.

 

The switch on the throttle unit activates the yellow and brown wires. The brown wire is at battery voltage.

 

Yellow and Green are connected together on the controller board.

 

Black is ground. Red is about 5V, but this is only active if the throttle unit switch is closed.

 

As Nealh suspected, the white wire is the throttle signal wire and I measured this to vary between 0.8 and 3.6V, from the throttle being in the off position to fully on.

 

You can poke your multimeter probe tips into the backs of the controller/throttle connectors when they are connected. Do this on opposite connectors to avoid shorting the probes. This way you can check the throttle without the motor being connected.

 

I'm not sure which wires correspond to the LED voltage gauge, I imaging it will be the green wire, but I will need to do a bit more testing to pin that down for certain.

Wheezy should the pedal assist work irrespective of whether the throttle is working or not ? It's me that mentioned the throttle I know but if the motor should work eventually with only pedal assist I'd rather solve that first then check the throttle cis it's a pig to get at . Then I can try and work out how to get these halls off the PCB

Anyone ?

Wheezy should the pedal assist work irrespective of whether the throttle is working or not ? It's me that mentioned the throttle I know but if the motor should work eventually with only pedal assist I'd rather solve that first then check the throttle cis it's a pig to get at . Then I can try and work out how to get these halls off the PCB

Anyone ?

 

I have never used the PAS on my Voilamart controllers. However, I have just been in the garage, connected the PAS with the throttle switched on and waved a magnet at the PAS and yes, it does operate the motor without the throttle being twisted.

 

When you do your tests, unplug the brake to the controller cables, just in case there is a short there that is stopping the motor from running.

Edited August 16, 20205 yr by WheezyRider

I have never used the PAS on my Voilamart controllers. However, I have just been in the garage, connected the PAS with the throttle switched on and waved a magnet at the PAS and yes, it does operate the motor without the throttle being twisted.

 

When you do your tests, unplug the brake to the controller cables, just in case there is a short there that is stopping the motor from running.

Gotcha but wouldn't PAS work without throttle on a working bike Anyway? After all if you were using pedal assist you wouldn't use throttle necessarily at same t ime

.my point was more about if the throttle was faulty disabled blown whatever , would pedal assist still work ?

Gotcha but wouldn't PAS work without throttle on a working bike Anyway? After all if you were using pedal assist you wouldn't use throttle necessarily at same t ime

.my point was more about if the throttle was faulty disabled blown whatever , would pedal assist still work ?

 

 

I'd like to say yes, my other bike works fine without a throttle attached at all, but that has an LCD screen to control it... but the Voilamart needs the on/off button of the throttle to turn the controller on. I'll have a go at leaving a throttle completely detached and turning the controller on without it and see if the PAS runs. I'll let you know.

I'd like to say yes, my other bike works fine without a throttle attached at all, but that has an LCD screen to control it... but the Voilamart needs the on/off button of the throttle to turn the controller on. I'll have a go at leaving a throttle completely detached and turning the controller on without it and see if the PAS runs. I'll let you know.

 

Yes I can confirm that with no throttle attached, but the yellow and brown wires shorted on the controller throttle connector, the PAS alone will make the motor run.

Yes I can confirm that with no throttle attached, but the yellow and brown wires shorted on the controller throttle connector, the PAS alone will make the motor run.

Thanks wheezy sorry it caused a short. I'll plough on with removi g the sensors but sorry I need help for this . Looks like the sensors pins below the board are either glued or wrapped . Dunno best way to remove them

Thanks wheezy sorry it caused a short. I'll plough on with removi g the sensors but sorry I need help for this . Looks like the sensors pins below the board are either glued or wrapped . Dunno best way to remove them

 

Oh no, it didn't cause a short, I shorted the connection with a piece of wire, so that the controller would switch on without the throttle connected.

Oh no, it didn't cause a short, I shorted the connection with a piece of wire, so that the controller would switch on without the throttle connected.

Good. Cani u help ref removing the sensors ? IM not sure how they are attached below the board see my photo on previous post don’t know if they’re glued underneath can u advise

Just wanted to point out that I don't expect people to reply immediately to my questions . I have to wait I understand that .only I might give a prompt sometimes because I work a lot , so when I'm free to look at the bike I don't want to waste the opportunity . If I have to lose that opportunity cis you're all busy so be it. It's not impatience it's just trying to get the job done thanks gentlemen

Outstanding question on my last reply to wheezy

Just wanted to point out that I don't expect people to reply immediately to my questions . I have to wait I understand that .only I might give a prompt sometimes because I work a lot , so when I'm free to look at the bike I don't want to waste the opportunity . If I have to lose that opportunity cis you're all busy so be it. It's not impatience it's just trying to get the job done thanks gentlemen

Outstanding question on my last reply to wheezy

 

This is what the Hall sensors look like with the magnet cage removed. Looks like they are glued in. It could be epoxy based, which will be a pain to remove, or it could be a thermoplastic glue you can just heat up and melt. I've never taken any out before. Nealh might have some suggestions.

 

 

This is what the Hall sensors look like with the magnet cage removed. Looks like they are glued in. It could be epoxy based, which will be a pain to remove, or it could be a thermoplastic glue you can just heat up and melt. I've never taken any out before. Nealh might have some suggestions.

 

[ATTACH type=full" alt="37892]37892[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH type=full" alt="37893]37893[/ATTACH]

Thank you . But whatever it is, am I right in saying that those legs are not electronically connected to anything ? Only the top part soldered to top surface ? If so I can be a bit tough with the bottom bit once I've removed solder at the top

Your guy who replaced them must have glued them in with the Blue paste, yes only the three legs are soldered so once desoldered or broken off you can oik them out .

Your guy who replaced them must have glued them in with the Blue paste, yes only the three legs are soldered so once desoldered or broken off you can oik them out .

Thanks nealh I'll update when I get to it

One thing I forgot is the Halls and grooves are dovetailed.

One thing I forgot is the Halls and grooves are dovetailed.

Nealh I assume this photo shows what u mean by dovetail. Should the dovetail face outward or inward or doesn't it matter

Thanks

They are orientated so that the 5v from the outer face of the magnets is to the right and signal to the LHS. middle is gnd. Also you should be governed by the wiring order as it is (assuming it is correct).

Dovetail in or the face with less surface area facing out.

They are orientated so that the 5v from the outer face of the magnets is to the right and signal to the LHS. middle is gnd. Also you should be governed by the wiring order as it is (assuming it is correct).

Dovetail in or the face with less surface area facing out.

Face with less surface area facing out thanks . Don't understand the previous bit sorry

The three hall legs have a 5v, gnd and a signal contact.

Put it another way looking from the hub center outwards the 5v will be the LH leg of the hall, middle diddle is Gnd and RH is signal/output.

The three hall legs have a 5v, gnd and a signal contact.

Put it another way looking from the hub center outwards the 5v will be the LH leg of the hall, middle diddle is Gnd and RH is signal/output.

Halls fitted motor running

Thank you all gentlemen fir your patience and support