Good news and bad news .

Good ... When I gently scraped at the alleged damaged tracks they are Ok And it’s only rubbish from the untidy soldering That made tracks look damaged

Bad .... the motor doesn’t run with halls disconnected . But are you sure about that if somebody else set it up ?

I am left with only 2 other known possibilities and after that it’s for sale for repair or spares unless you’ve any other thoughts

1. The motor may not run with halls disconnected .

2. R2 which you think does nothing may do something. And the guy replaced what was on there only guessing , and ended up putting a 100nF capacitor when maybe it should be a resistor. ??

 

 

There are several possibilities.

 

1) the controller is set up so it has to have Hall sensors connected. But I think this is unlikely as it is a dual mode controller.

 

2) the controller is not switching on, or it is not giving an output for some reason.

 

3) there is actually a break somewhere in the main wiring to the motor windings. Looking at your photos, it's hard to see that you have done the continuity test all the way from the 3 controller power cables to the motor windings, the insulation at those points looks intact.

 

Debugging this sort of thing is very frustrating process, hang on in there

R2 One end is connected to ground and the other to the empty pad H, so there's no way for electricity to go through it. Pad H is to connect the speed sensor, but the holes where the speed sensor would be fitted are empty too, and no speed sensor has ever been fitted. It's an optional part.

Gotcha

What vfr means is that it is strange that R2 "blew" when it seems as if nothing is connected to it.

Probably didn’t . I’m quoting the solder guy

There are several possibilities.

 

1) the controller is set up so it has to have Hall sensors connected. But I think this is unlikely as it is a dual mode controller.

 

2) the controller is not switching on, or it is not giving an output for some reason.

 

3) there is actually a break somewhere in the main wiring to the motor windings. Looking at your photos, it's hard to see that you have done the continuity test all the way from the 3 controller power cables to the motor windings, the insulation at those points looks intact.

 

Debugging this sort of thing is very frustrating process, hang on in there

1. Well I’ve got the new sensors so I might as well try them . Though I think it will be a pig of job to remove old ones .

2. The power / battery switch turns on Does that mean controller ok ?

3. I was advised to do continuity test from controller to solder points which I’ve done. And the thicker wires I was advised to do all at the controller end which I must admit confused me . So the 3 thick wires for where to where please

1. Well I’ve got the new sensors so I might as well try them . Though I think it will be a pig of job to remove old ones .

2. The power / battery switch turns on Does that mean controller ok ?

3. I was advised to do continuity test from controller to solder points which I’ve done. And the thicker wires I was advised to do all at the controller end which I must admit confused me . So the 3 thick wires for where to where please

 

 

The switch on the battery will just feed power to the controller. Isn't there a throttle with a switch on it? Like this:

 

 

 

One way to tell if the controller is switched on is to see if you have power (ie 36V) on the lamp power out cable (no. 1):

 

 

It is very important you check continuity of the fat cables from the controller to inside the hub. These are the most critical wires.

The switch on the battery will just feed power to the controller. Isn't there a throttle with a switch on it? Like this:

 

[ATTACH type=full" alt="37730]37730[/ATTACH]

 

 

One way to tell if the controller is switched on is to see if you have power (ie 36V) on the lamp power out cable (no. 1):

 

[ATTACH type=full" alt="37731]37731[/ATTACH]

 

It is very important you check continuity of the fat cables from the controller to inside the hub. These are the most critical wires.

yes I have a throttle like this with a power and battery indicator next to it. That lights up , must admit I thought the throttle and the on switch were 2 separate things .

I’ll check the lamp wire when home

 

so I think I checked thick cables from controller To board but noT those goinginside motor I assume I can check them at the point where they go in and not try to go right inside ?

One way to tell if the controller is switched on is to see if you have power (ie 36V) on the lamp power out cable (no. 1):

That only checks that the battery is connected. you have to measure the 5v to see if the controller is actually switched on.

That only checks that the battery is connected. you have to measure the 5v to see if the controller is actually switched on.

 

On the Voilamart controller, power is only given to the LED lamp circuit once the throttle on/off switch is activated.

I think you may have misunderstood about phase wire continuation testing.

If one reads back I believe I said, to check the phase continuation one has to check from one end to the other which means from the controller end phases to the hub motor phase wires.

I also mentioned that the phases in the hub disappeared in to the windings so to get a contact cut the wire sheathing so the probes get a good contact, then use tape to repair sheathing to prevent any shorting issue later.

In #5 I alluded/referred to the procedure.

 

The later controller phase wire testing was to confirm controller mosfets were good.

Edited August 12, 20205 yr by Nealh

yes I have a throttle like this with a power and battery indicator next to it. That lights up , must admit I thought the throttle and the on switch were 2 separate things .

I’ll check the lamp wire when home

 

so I think I checked thick cables from controller To board but noT those goinginside motor I assume I can check them at the point where they go in and not try to go right inside ?

 

 

Ok, that's a good sign that you get the light coming on at the throttle. The LED lamp output then should be live too.

 

The fat motor wires do not go to the Hall sensor PCB in the motor. There are no pads for these. There is some shrinkwrap around the ends of the fat wires inside the motor that are joined to clusters of the copper coloured windings. You could try to get a probe into the end of this shrinkwrap, or you could make a small incision on the insulation of the fat wire inside the motor before it gets to the copper windings, then repair the insulation afterwards. Ah, I see Nealh has beat me to it.

 

The important thing is you need to see that you have continuity in the fat motor wires either side of where they go through the hub's axle, where there could be a break.

That only checks that the battery is connected. you have to measure the 5v to see if the controller is actually switched on.

Sorry think I misunderstood you.

You advised to check

On the Voilamart controller, power is only given to the LED lamp circuit once the throttle on/off switch is activated.

sorry I’m confused . The on off switch on the handle bar gives power to pedal assist as well as throttle . Neither would work if this is switched off . (With a working motor of course)

Only clarifying cos u refer to it as throttle on/off switch . Have I misunderstood?

Sorry think I misunderstood you.

You advised to check

 

sorry I’m confused . The on off switch on the handle bar gives power to pedal assist as well as throttle . Neither would work if this is switched off . (With a working motor of course)

Only clarifying cos u refer to it as throttle on/off switch . Have I misunderstood?

 

 

Yes, the throttle switch needs to be on. I needed to clarify as you mentioned "battery switch". A lot of battery packs have a switch to turn then on and off separate from the controller and they would not turn the controller on by themselves.

 

Have a look at my post #103. Look at the small red circles in the picture. Those are the points where you need to test continuity between the motor and the controller.

I think you may have misunderstood about phase wire continuation testing.

If one reads back I believe I said, to check the phase continuation one has to check from one end to the other which means from the controller end phases to the hub motor phase wires.

I also mentioned that the phases in the hub disappeared in to the windings so to get a contact cut the wire sheathing so the probes get a good contact, then use tape to repair sheathing to prevent any shorting issue later.

In #5 I alluded/referred to the procedure.

 

The later controller phase wire testing was to confirm controller mosfets were good.

Thanks Nealh . I assume you mean just immediately outside where they Disappear into the motor . I dint have to try and get into the motor where they disappear

Yes, the throttle switch needs to be on. I needed to clarify as you mentioned "battery switch". A lot of battery packs have a switch to turn then on and off separate from the controller and they would not turn the controller on by themselves.

 

Have a look at my post #103. Look at the small red circles in the picture. Those are the points where you need to test continuity between the motor and the controller.

Thanks again

Thanks Nealh . I assume you mean just immediately outside where they Disappear into the motor . I dint have to try and get into the motor where they disappear

 

 

Look again at the figure from post #103:

 

 

 

You've got to measure continuity from around these points to the controller, pay particular attention to the small red circles.

Ok, that's a good sign that you get the light coming on at the throttle. The LED lamp output then should be live too.

 

The fat motor wires do not go to the Hall sensor PCB in the motor. There are no pads for these. There is some shrinkwrap around the ends of the fat wires inside the motor that are joined to clusters of the copper coloured windings. You could try to get a probe into the end of this shrinkwrap, or you could make a small incision on the insulation of the fat wire inside the motor before it gets to the copper windings, then repair the insulation afterwards. Ah, I see Nealh has beat me to it.

 

The important thing is you need to see that you have continuity in the fat motor wires either side of where they go through the hub's axle, where there could be a break.

Thank you . You know the worst job I had this far?

Trying to line up the bloody holes for the screws to put the pedal/Battery housing Back on .

Look again at the figure from post #103:

 

[ATTACH type=full" alt="37733]37733[/ATTACH]

 

 

You've got to measure continuity from around these points to the controller, pay particular attention to the small red circles.

No, that's not how to test the phase wire continuity. You check from from one wire to the next at the other end of the cable, between each pair, like green to blue, yellow to blue and yellow to green. when you've done that, you should check between each wire and the axle to make sure there isn't a short. From the photo, I'd say that the guy has already repaired all the damage to the motor cable.

Look again at the figure from post #103:

 

[ATTACH type=full" alt="37733]37733[/ATTACH]

 

 

You've got to measure continuity from around these points to the controller, pay particular attention to the small red circles.

Halls definitely done . Upper small circles were done . Lower circle into the motor not done . Will do many thanks .

No, that's not how to test the phase wire continuity. You check from from one wire to the next at the other end of the cable, between each pair, like green to blue, yellow to blue and yellow to green. when you've done that, you should check between each wire and the axle to make sure there isn't a short. From the photo, I'd say that the guy has already repaired all the damage to the motor cable.

 

 

Yes, that's what I meant, I typed in a hurry, without thinking how it could be understood. Thanks for making it clearer for Mike.

Thank you . You know the worst job I had this far?

Trying to line up the bloody holes for the screws to put the pedal/Battery housing Back on .

 

Put the covers back on? You never want to do that!

 

Always best to leave at least one screw out to fool the e-bike pixies into thinking you haven't quite finished the job...

No, that's not how to test the phase wire continuity. You check from from one wire to the next at the other end of the cable, between each pair, like green to blue, yellow to blue and yellow to green. when you've done that, you should check between each wire and the axle to make sure there isn't a short. From the photo, I'd say that the guy has already repaired all the damage to the motor cable.

Ok I’m sorry I’m lost now .

I Already did a test between the different phase colours at controller end and Nealh Said I’d confused that with the mosfet test . So Nealh and vfr are saying tests from controller to the red circles. And I think you are saying test across the colours for continuity At controller end ? ?

Followed by test from Small circles to just outside axle ??

am I right ?

Ok I’m sorry I’m lost now .

I Already did a test between the different phase colours at controller end and Nealh Said I’d confused that with the mosfet test . So Nealh and vfr are saying tests from controller to the red circles. And I think you are saying test across the colours for continuity At controller end ? ?

Followed by test from Small circles to just outside axle ??

am I right ?

I don’t know who is saying what sorry vfr . So is my understanding above correct ?

Ok I’m sorry I’m lost now .

I Already did a test between the different phase colours at controller end and Nealh Said I’d confused that with the mosfet test . So Nealh and vfr are saying tests from controller to the red circles. And I think you are saying test across the colours for continuity At controller end ? ?

Followed by test from Small circles to just outside axle ??

am I right ?

 

 

You've got to do this in steps.

 

One is to check continuity from each of the fat wires (around where the red circles are inside the motor) to the corresponding fat wire at the controller. Then you need to check between phases (at both before and after the motor - there could be a break and a short) and then between the metal of the hub and each fat wire.

You've got to do this in steps.

 

One is to check continuity from each of the fat wires (around where the red circles are inside the motor) to the corresponding fat wire at the controller. Then you need to check between phases (at both before and after the motor - there could be a break and a short) and then between the metal of the hub and each fat wire.

 

Just start with step one and report back.

Put the covers back on? You never want to do that!

 

Always best to leave at least one screw out to fool the e-bike pixies into thinking you haven't quite finished the job...

only put battery side on with one screw in battery housing and one screw in battery terminal plug