Dear Pedelecers!

 

I have a rear hub motor wheel that I bought from Yose Power ~2 and a half years ago. Been very happy with it and would fully recommend it to anyone. I've knackered the rim now though and need to rebuild it.

 

The stickers say it is a "HJC Centerial DA-250 26" 559x19 ALLOY 6061-T6" with 36h. Ideally I just want to know the ERD so that I can spec up a new build with a better rim but if anyone knows where I can buy the same rim again I may just go for another one to save some hassle for now (the spokes are fine...).

 

Any ideas much appreciated... otherwise I'll measure the ERD myself eventually and post on here in case anyone else wants it.

 

Thanks,

 

Adam

Can't help with sourcing the same rim or the ERD.

 

If you are going to the effort of rebuilding the wheel, I'd probably go with a hefty touring type rim such as the Ryde Sputnik and Sapim strong spokes laced in a single cross pattern. My Shengyi rear motor hub has a flange diameter of 156mm. With a 700C wheel I tried a twin cross pattern, but the spoke entry angles were just too acute and I ended up breaking some spokes after a while (on a tandem though, so 'heavy duty' use). A solo may be OK.

 

I don't know the flange diameter of your motor, but with a 26" wheel, I'd certainly be tempted to go with a single cross pattern.

 

If you are not already aware of it, the 'Grin' site in Canada has an excellent spoke length calculator and instructional videos.

 

If you decide to go with something like a Sputnik, then get the rim first and measure the ERD yourself. I really rate Sputniks for strength, but the ERD can vary by several mm on the same type of rim.

The Yose uses a smaller dia hub, I think 129mm or so. I used a 2x lacing for my one with 14g sapim strongs.

Hi. Using the old spokes has worked out ok for me on front wheels or where the rider in light. Rear spoke breakage can be a problem with heavy riders. Choices in rims can be limited. You left out two important bits of information that helps to select a rim. The first is do you use a disk brake or a rim brake. The second is to measure the height of the cross section of the rim. My rear yose 700 rims were around 25mm high.

If you use a disk brake and your rims are 25mm high, as i suspect, I would recommend the rim below or similar. You may be able to source from uk supplier.

When replacing the rim, just loosing all the spokes, tape the new rim to old rim with valve holes line up and change over spokes in groups of nine starting at nearest. Leave everything loose at first and finish by trueing and tightening the wheel, starting on the drive side. Cover the cable end and dont damage electric cable and connector.

The valve holes may need to be enlarged for different valve type. I recommend not using rims with eyelets as holes can be a little tight for some larger spoke nipples and this can cause the spokes to bend and fatigue/break at the nipples.

 

https://hollandbikeshop.com/en-gb/bicycle-wheels/bicycle-rims/bicycle-rim-26-atb/ryde-rim-andra-10-26-x-1-75-36-hole-disc-black/

Thanks everyone for the replies!

 

I hadn't thought too hard about the pattern- the wheel is 2x on both sides at the moment and I will probably stick with it as I've had no troubles there.

 

Sturmey- a solid assumption but amazingly for 2022, I'm rocking rim brakes. I've not used Holland before but wow they have quite a range! Is it simple to get such things to the UK post- Brexit? My rim is ~25mm deep and this one caught me eye as the only with a possible chance of fitting as a straight swap....Any concerns on that one? It's quite heavy which I take as mildly reassuring.

 

https://hollandbikeshop.com/en-gb/bicycle-wheels/bicycle-rims/bicycle-rim-26-atb/contec-rim-classic-x19-26-inch-19-559-36-hole-alu-black/

 

Thanks again,

 

Adam

Yes, that rim looks good. It has no eyelets, so this means that the spoke holes can be enlarged a little if necessary if using original ebike heavier spokes & nipples. You cant change the spoke cross pattern if using the original spokes. Unfortunately, Brexit has added difficulties, so you need to factor in additional costs etc. sjs cycles uk have a selection of rims that you can check but I dont see anything that will fit without changing the spokes. Some people here have bought rims from ali express etc but I have never used them.

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/rims-26-559/?holes=36

Dear Pedelecers!

 

I have a rear hub motor wheel that I bought from Yose Power ~2 and a half years ago. Been very happy with it and would fully recommend it to anyone. I've knackered the rim now though and need to rebuild it.

 

The stickers say it is a "HJC Centerial DA-250 26" 559x19 ALLOY 6061-T6" with 36h. Ideally I just want to know the ERD so that I can spec up a new build with a better rim but if anyone knows where I can buy the same rim again I may just go for another one to save some hassle for now (the spokes are fine...).

 

Any ideas much appreciated... otherwise I'll measure the ERD myself eventually and post on here in case anyone else wants it.

 

Thanks,

 

Adam

hello Adam

I have the same problem..Rim has worn out and split

 

Did you ever find a rim with the same ERD to fit the yose power rear hub?

I.e. HJC Centerial DA-250 26" 559x19 ALLOY 6061-T6

 

yose said the ERD is 526.5mm

 

Thanks

tony

if using rim brakes perhaps a steel rim would be a wise option as it would resist wear much better than a softer alloy?

 

If your spoke spanner is a cheap multi size option like mine, tape off all the not used nipple gaps it will save you hours tho a proper spoke spanner is the best option

 

If unsure of spoke size - amazon-prime and no quible returns..

if using rim brakes perhaps a steel rim would be a wise option as it would resist wear much better than a softer alloy?

That may be so, but my memory of steel rims on my Claud Butler racer in the 1960's is of very poor braking, even with Weinmann centre-pulls, which were the best at the time. I can't imagine how dangerous steel rims and rim brakes would be on a converted bike!

I am coming round to what saneagle is always saying - disc brakes are the way to go. I've come to the conclusion that alloy rims will always wear more on an electric bike, but it can be reduced by careful pad selection. You either have hard pads and wear out rims quickly or soft pads and change them frequently. I'm using either Clarks Elite or BBB Tristop pads, which are soft. I found Shimano pads awful, even on a non-electric bike. They are very hard and generate a grey 'paste' on the rims which grinds them and creates aluminium swarf, which inbeds into the pads.

As for rims, Ryde Andrea's apparently have a thicker and wider brake surface developed for touring bikes and tandems, although I've not needed to replace a rim - yet!

Edited September 20, 20241 yr by Cadence

I absolutely agree with cadence, steel rims and rim brakes are a lethal combination. (How did our parents ever survive long enough for us to exist?)

Thanks everyone for the replies!

 

I hadn't thought too hard about the pattern- the wheel is 2x on both sides at the moment and I will probably stick with it as I've had no troubles there.

 

Sturmey- a solid assumption but amazingly for 2022, I'm rocking rim brakes. I've not used Holland before but wow they have quite a range! Is it simple to get such things to the UK post- Brexit? My rim is ~25mm deep and this one caught me eye as the only with a possible chance of fitting as a straight swap....Any concerns on that one? It's quite heavy which I take as mildly reassuring.

 

https://hollandbikeshop.com/en-gb/bicycle-wheels/bicycle-rims/bicycle-rim-26-atb/contec-rim-classic-x19-26-inch-19-559-36-hole-alu-black/

 

Thanks again,

 

Adam

It's almost certain that you'll need different spokes for whatever rim you get. They all have different ERDs, and you can never trust the ERDs quoted in any listing, so be careful and check it before ordering spokes.

 

Assuming that you have 13g spokes at the moment, replace them with 14g ones if you want a reliable wheel. Definitely do not go up to 12g, thinking it will make your wheel stronger.

It'd be nice if universal spokes were available, which users could simply cut to length at home, with no spoke threading tool required. There's at least one way to do it, but how reliable such spokes would be I won't know without testing. Perhaps universal spokes already exist out there somewhere?

Edited September 20, 20241 yr by guerney

Perhaps universal spokes already exist out there somewhere?

I have made 'Z bend spokes' for repairs without problems. They are handy in that you can get a bike immediately back on the road with them using longer spokes. I have never done a complete wheel with them yet.

 

https://wheelfanatyk.com/blogs/blog/z-spokes-all-you-need-to-know

 

I have made 'Z bend spokes' for repairs without problems. They are handy in that you can get a bike immediately back on the road with them using longer spokes. I have never done a complete wheel with them yet.

 

https://wheelfanatyk.com/blogs/blog/z-spokes-all-you-need-to-know

 

 

Very useful and interesting! Thanks for posting about that. I'll definitely make these linked in the article:

 

http://www.flyrc.com/make-your-own-z-bend-pliers/

 

http://www.flyrc.com/images/drupal/z-10.jpg

 

I have never done a complete wheel with them yet.

 

Is that because you worry about them breaking? At what temperature do manufacturers bend spokes? Are they heat treated afterwards? If so, how?

 

 

There's at least one way to do it

 

At least two ways then.

Edited September 21, 20241 yr by guerney

Is that because you worry about them breaking? At what temperature do manufacturers bend spokes? Are they heat treated afterwards? If so, how?

They are bent cold. Bending and cutting 36 spokes for doing a complete wheel could be tedious and clutter a small regular non electric hub. But they are strong and there is a trick for fitting them to small hubs without removing the freewheel.if that is necessary.

hello Adam

I have the same problem..Rim has worn out and split

Did you ever find a rim with the same ERD to fit the yose power rear hub?

I.e. HJC Centerial DA-250 26" 559x19 ALLOY 6061-T6

 

yose said the ERD is 526.5mm

 

Thanks

tony

 

If you cant get or come close to the original rim size. you will also have also to replace the spokes and nipples. (preferably 14g)

I have posted below a simply way to calculate the replacement spoke length if you keep to the same pattern. It can save you worrying about ERD.

 

https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/wheel-building-help.47553/#post-720107

As for rims, Ryde Andrea's apparently have a thicker and wider brake surface developed for touring bikes and tandems, although I've not needed to replace a rim - yet!

 

Thanks for posting about Ryde's rims - if my eye based approximating estimator is not mistaken, they look the same size as the rims Tern use - I'll check dimensions, perhaps I'll be able to reuse the old spokes? Might be asking for too much there lol. The 406 Tern wheels I bought from CH White & Son are good quality, with great rims that can take wide tyres, but they don't always have them in stock and when they do they're not cheap. Mind you, neither are these Rydes. Kinetix (formerly owned by Dahon, sold to Tern), are only good for up to 1.5" wide unfortunately - useless on our pothole infested roads. The rim replacement trevails of v-brakes...

Edited September 21, 20241 yr by guerney

Thanks for posting about Ryde's rims - if my eye based approximating estimator is not mistaken, they look the same size as the rims Tern use - I'll check dimensions, perhaps I'll be able to reuse the old spokes? Might be asking for too much there lol. The 406 Tern wheels I bought from CH White & Son are awesome, can take wide tyres, but they don't always have them in stock and when they do they're not cheap. Mind you, neither are these Rydes. Kinetix (formerly owned by Dahon, sold to Tern), are only good for up to 1.5" wide unfortunately - useless on our pothole infested roads.

Are these any good for you?

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/rims-tape/ryde-andra-40-20-inch-406-rim-black-32-hole/

 

Able to take tyres up to 65mm.

The one reviewer says he used one to fit an Alphine hub on a Tern D8 (I know nothing about Tern's!). Also available in 36 spoke version.

Ryde were formerly Rigida, so decent quality.

You guys always make things so difficult and expensive. I've never used any rims other than the cheapest ones I can find on Ebay and Amazon. I have never had a single issue with any of them - no corrosion, no spokes coming loose, no denting , no cracking, no truing necessary. That's building always with 14g spokes, if that makes a difference. I always ride up and down curbs and on rough trails. I've also hit many potholes.

 

Be careful of rims with eyelets in the holes, especially if you plan to use 13g spokes, because they tend to hold the spokes at right angles to the rim. Either use 14g spokes and nipples or don't have eyelets.

After being through this with a different dimensioned replacement rim and struggling with spoke sizes,I would suggest buying 9.99 spoke sets from amazon prime for next day delivery, and if the wrong size? return, and order your next best guess.. took me 3 x and less than a week and was pretty painless.. - You will get 36 spokes and nipples in each set but extras/spares are rare so dont loose any.. btw i checked the condition of my amazon spokes the day i read about CCbikers spoke probs and they are rust free and as good as new so

Are these any good for you?

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/rims-tape/ryde-andra-40-20-inch-406-rim-black-32-hole/

 

Able to take tyres up to 65mm.

The one reviewer says he used one to fit an Alphine hub on a Tern D8 (I know nothing about Tern's!). Also available in 36 spoke version.

Ryde were formerly Rigida, so decent quality.

 

Thanks, yes that does help. I have 28H and 32H rear hubs, 18H and 28H front hubs - 28H are Tern, the others are original Dahon Kinetix. I'll have to see what 74mm front hubs are available from Shimano and others. I should buy a front rim plus other bits soon before I need them - managed to buy an entire spare new rear wheel on for less than the price of any of those rims late last year, still haven't got around to installing it; spokes might be rubbish, it's bound to need truing (they all have so far). I think the widest tyre I can fit on my frame is not much wider than 2.125", wider may result in woolly handling anyway?

 

 

You guys always make things so difficult and expensive. I've never used any rims other than the cheapest ones I can find on Ebay and Amazon. I have never had a single issue with any of them - no corrosion, no spokes coming loose, no denting , no cracking, no truing necessary. That's building always with 14g spokes, if that makes a difference. I always ride up and down curbs and on rough trails. I've also hit many potholes.

 

Be careful of rims with eyelets in the holes, especially if you plan to use 13g spokes, because they tend to hold the spokes at right angles to the rim. Either use 14g spokes and nipples or don't have eyelets.

 

Thanks, very useful hearing your experienced perspective regarding the cheapos and eyelets. I'l have another good look around on the internet's Chinatown.

Are these any good for you?

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/rims-tape/ryde-andra-40-20-inch-406-rim-black-32-hole/

 

Able to take tyres up to 65mm.

The one reviewer says he used one to fit an Alphine hub on a Tern D8 (I know nothing about Tern's!). Also available in 36 spoke version.

Ryde were formerly Rigida, so decent quality.

 

32H hubs for 74mm and rim brake are really rare. So far, I've found this one. They probably don't deliver to the UK.

 

https://shop.ginkgo-veloteile.de/en/Wheel-Accessories/Hubs/front-Hubs/Chosen-front-Hub-74-mm-black.html

 

 

Also this generatively rolling dynamo hub:

 

https://www.pedalpowerbikes.co.uk/shop/components/sub/wheels/sp-dynamo-sv8-74mm-rim-brake-dyno-hub-ultra-small-dynamo-hub-29024955/option/

Edited November 25, 20241 yr by guerney

I need to fit a new rim to my front yose hub wheel.

I unsure if it's something I can tackle or if I should just find a local shop to do it?

Problem is I've been running rim brakes so I'm going to upgrade to discs. Reading through it seems there is lots to consider when buying a rim and getting the correct spokes.

I wonder if easier to buy a new hub wheel?

fitting and trueing spokes in a new rim is a doddle if your methodical about it, getting the right spoke size is the main hurdle, I got that wrong a few times so by the time the right size arrived I was well practiced and it took no time..

 

useing onlne spoke calculators might be a good idea..

 

using upturned front forks and cable ties snipped to size makes a diy trueing frame that just needs an upturned bucket for a stool to sit on while you get the wheel round..

 

youtube fed me all i needed from suggesting diy hub stands to get started to stressing the wheel when 'first done' and retesting spoke tension listening for the same spoke twangs..

 

btw all spoke sets i got had EXACTLY 36x nipples be mindful not to loose any

I need to fit a new rim to my front yose hub wheel.

I unsure if it's something I can tackle or if I should just find a local shop to do it?

Problem is I've been running rim brakes so I'm going to upgrade to discs. Reading through it seems there is lots to consider when buying a rim and getting the correct spokes.

I wonder if easier to buy a new hub wheel?

It is one of the great learning experiences with an ebike. You only need to do one and you'll have all the learning, and every step of the way there are plenty of people here who can help.

 

First find a rim, then calculate the spoke length required, and so on. The build is not hard, just a bit slow the first time.

 

Post details of the existing motor, rim etc. to get the conversation started.