Surprised to see that with a measured 38v at the output pins, that the battery status on the battery still showed all five LEDs lit. Swytch users - don’t believe those LEDs!

For those who have Swytch Air or Max battery packs. The charge connections - which are the centre two (O and D) on the yellow plug - are EC2 connectors, but with the O and D positions reversed. You can make up a charger adapter by cutting the EC2 in half and hot gluing it together in the Swytch orientation.

1. 
   It doesn’t matter if both battery’s are connected at the same time not good practice but your still only supplying 36v as they in parellel and not series
   

Can you (or indeed anyone else) confirm that connecting an external battery in parallel works as well as the normal swytch battery?

Can you (or indeed anyone else) confirm that connecting an external battery in parallel works as well as the normal swytch battery?

If the cells are decent then yes it will.

Can you (or indeed anyone else) confirm that connecting an external battery in parallel works as well as the normal swytch battery?

Make sure they are very close in voltage before connecting them, or use a protection circuit.

1. 
   It doesn’t matter if both battery’s are connected at the same time not good practice but your still only supplying 36v as they in parellel and not series
   

hi,

did you have to open up the controller box and cut + solder the new "alternative" battery wires? it's the only way i can think of doing it, and was wondering if you did it in a better way thanks.

Opening the controller up is the best way. Some screws are torx and some philips - watch out for the little rubber gromits on the yellow connector screws. There’s just about enough room to join your red and black extension wires to the existing red and black wires that run between the yellow plug and the controller, and run them out the bottom of the controller housing.

Opening the controller up is the best way. Some screws are torx and some philips - watch out for the little rubber gromits on the yellow connector screws. There’s just about enough room to join your red and black extension wires to the existing red and black wires that run between the yellow plug and the controller, and run them out the bottom of the controller housing.

super clear - thanks! may attempt it this weekend.

Opening the controller up is the best way. Some screws are torx and some philips - watch out for the little rubber gromits on the yellow connector screws. There’s just about enough room to join your red and black extension wires to the existing red and black wires that run between the yellow plug and the controller, and run them out the bottom of the controller housing.

Mission accomplished. Now offloading my Max battery as I can use third party batteries indefinitely. Thanks to everyone on this forum for the tips

Wow [mention=41340]mta102[/mention] - trying to do the same thing, can you share any pictures of how it ended up looking? What kind of battery are you considering buying? I just did it on my Brompton and am looking at some bottle batteries that could go in my Brompton bag.

For those who have Swytch Air or Max battery packs. The charge connections - which are the centre two (O and D) on the yellow plug - are EC2 connectors, but with the O and D positions reversed. You can make up a charger adapter by cutting the EC2 in half and hot gluing it together in the Swytch orientation.

 

Is there a diagram of polarity of the O and D terminals?

Is there a diagram of polarity of the O and D terminals?

The O-side is positive, and the D-side is neg.

You can confirm this by putting a meter onto the output plug of your Swytch charger, so just wondering why you needed to ask?

Don’t try taking power from the O & D connector - it’s power INPUT to the battery pack only,

Sorry, in hindsight was a dumb question as I could've just run a multimeter to the two ports.

 

I'm getting some anxiety about building my own charger using a cut-in-half EC2 connector and buying something like this: https://www.amazon.com/YYHQQBAD-Battery-10Series-Electric-DC5-52-5MM/dp/B08CRGS9WY/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=36V+2A+charger&qid=1705261506&sr=8-6 and then splicing it to the EC2 connector.

So it looks like the polarity of the battery O D connector is opposite of EC2 polarity?

I can’t follow your link, but anyway I would be very careful when buying any charger - it’s dangerous territory. There’s a few genuine Swytch chargers for sale on ebay. These are excellent quality and trust-worthy. Yes, they are around £30, but cheaper ones are risky.

There’s a genuine Swytch charger on ebay currently WITH the correct OD connector (currently £12ish buyitnow). Search for “SWYTCH E Bike 2A Charger Adapter New Official Genuine In Box”

Iwould like to use my original gen 1 10.2 Ah battery and wire it into the gen 3 mount. Does anyone know how to get the output terminals to go live without connecting it to the original gen 1 controller? I have tried shorting across the 'switch connector'

I have no Swytch experience, just a dangerous amount of curiosity.

 

I would be looking at the thing that plugs in to the switch connector, to work out what it does to switch the Swytch battery on... if not shorting out the wires (I'm assuming only 2 in that connector?), does it perhaps apply a voltage, and thereby operate a relay or other kind of switch? Or is it hokey pokey canny bussy?

 

If that is not possible, the only other option which is only suitable for the sufficiently careful is to open up the battery pack and see what is inside.

I have no Swytch experience, just a dangerous amount of curiosity.

 

I would be looking at the thing that plugs in to the switch connector, to work out what it does to switch the Swytch battery on... if not shorting out the wires (I'm assuming only 2 in that connector?), does it perhaps apply a voltage, and thereby operate a relay or other kind of switch? Or is it hokey pokey canny bussy?

 

If that is not possible, the only other option which is only suitable for the sufficiently careful is to open up the battery pack and see what is inside.

I am somewhat averse to just open and fiddle… rather hoping to gather some intel ir schematic first

Iwould like to use my original gen 1 10.2 Ah battery and wire it into the gen 3 mount. Does anyone know how to get the output terminals to go live without connecting it to the original gen 1 controller? I have tried shorting across the 'switch connector' [ATTACH type=full" alt="battery.jpg]56255[/ATTACH]

I'm no expert, but I would have thought "switch" might have been a clue.

I'm no expert, but I would have thought "switch" might have been a clue.

I of course tried this but it does not make the output live

I am somewhat averse to just open and fiddle… rather hoping to gather some intel ir schematic first

Fair enough. For me it depends on how easy it is to open, and whether there is a chance of a very simple answer once I can see inside.

 

I have to admit to having dismantled many more things than I have mantled.

Fair enough. For me it depends on how easy it is to open, and whether there is a chance of a very simple answer once I can see inside.

 

I have to admit to having dismantled many more things than I have mantled.

how many things re - mantled didnt have bits left over??

#1 rule for dismantling.. Never use a box with bottom flaps to keep screws/washers in on a strip down as something will always find its way under one of the flaps only to be discovered weeks later..

Iwould like to use my original gen 1 10.2 Ah battery and wire it into the gen 3 mount. Does anyone know how to get the output terminals to go live without connecting it to the original gen 1 controller? I have tried shorting across the 'switch connector' [ATTACH type=full" alt="battery.jpg]56255[/ATTACH]

The Swytch mk1 has a switch next to the charge socket that switches the battery on and off. AFAICS, it's a momentary switch, which means the battery has a smart BMS controlled by a microprocessor. I've not seen that switch in the flesh, so I can't be certain.

 

The logical thing to do is take the screws out of the case and look inside, which should take less than two minutes, then you have your answer, and at the same time you can check the cell-pack voltages because it could be them that prevent switching on.

I’ve just finished modding my wife’s Swytch Max bike so she can have extra (non Swytch) batteries, and still use a Swytch pack if she likes for shorter journeys.

The transistor thing screwed to the back of the Swytch handlebar battery holder is a twin 30A schottky diode (number visible in photo). The red wire between the yellow top connector and the controller is cut, the yellow connector end is brought out to an outer leg of the schottky, and the controller end is brought out to the middle leg of the schottky. The black wire between the yellow top connector is T’ed into, and brought out to an XT60 connector. The + side of the XT60 connector is taken up to the other outer leg of the schottky. An additional battery pack can now be connected to the XT60 connector without fear of upsetting any batteries that may or may not be connected or which maybe in a different charge state.