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What do you think of my new bike?

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Yes, it is better now.

Rear rack looks like it was possible to install spare battery there?

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  • Author
about the frame: I know I wanted a frame for our traditionally built customers but should I change for something less 'tank' like?
  • Author

Yes, it is better now.

Rear rack looks like it was possible to install spare battery there?

it can but a second battery could go in a bag under the saddle.

Frame wise Tony you are a bit stuck with wanting an internal battery.

Front MG is much better.

I like the understated matt balck look , it doesn't shout out bling come and nick me.

  • Author
the battery is semi-inframe. Bafang set off this trend 3-4 years ago and it does become fashionable. The main advantage of locating it below the downtube is rainwater can't get to it and popping it out is slightly easier than top loaded ones like I have on the Rambla and Rambletta.

about the frame: I know I wanted a frame for our traditionally built customers but should I change for something less 'tank' like?

 

The "tank like" appearance is difficult to avoid with a down tube internal battery and long acting suspension forks. Having the battery on the down tube upper surface partially socketed into it can lessen the effect a little if it's shorter than the down tube.

 

But nobody has satisfactorily solved the problem of where is a pedelec battery best placed.

.

  • Author
I use 650B tyres also because of the targetted customers. 700C tyres would look slimmer.

Try to put yourself in seller shoes. Would you want it on your conscience? Even if name of company won't be mentioned?

 

I've read it's definition several times now. Nope. No idea.

 

 

How heavy ?

24kgs

 

He looks about 80 stones.

 

 

The battery is 48V so the motor should have a 30% wider range of power compared to 36V. 48V 10A continuous, 15A max should be enough to climb hills.

 

I reckon at 20A, my 20" wheeler would beat that bike in a hauling contest, and that's a tragedy (if true).

 

 

Also there is most likely case scenario: Guy sets motor for 20A, burns it down, then sends it back to be replaced under warranty.

 

I did say:

 

If your bike can cope with 20A 48V reliably

 

An ebike's utility shouldn't be overshadowed by it's potential misuse. Why not test a whole bunch of Ananda motors at high amps? The old BBS01 controllers appear to have been iffy, but the story is... after someone on Endless Scrotum replaced the MOSFETs in his with better versions , Bafang copied him. My controller is running fine at 18A so far, but I killed my previous BBS01B controller through inept wire stripping, or inept selection of ebay trash to attempt soldering on, inept soldering skills, or programming cable failure resulting in garbled comms and bricked controller. I very much wanted to know if it was the latter, and that's the reason why I spent £20 to send the dead controller to the Amazon seller's diagnostic facility in China, because he claimed to have a gadget which could determine whether the firmware had been altered. But after 4 weeks of intense 24/7 testing using all of the tools the mighty technologically advanced Chinese government had at it's disposal, or whatever, he simply said the firmware was unreadable, so I jumped on the the opportunity provided by non-provable culpability to shake him down using a zillion long and highly negative reviews on Amazon as leverage. That's the sort of horrible customer I am - and if that "New" controller he sent which has been sat in a box on my shelf for years (it's great to have a spare) doesn't actually work, that's the sort of seller he is. Capitalism is a dog eat dog world.

Edited by guerney

With 650b one can lose the heavy suspension forks, running them at lower psi will act as suspension.

Edited by Nealh

  • Author

I've read it's definition several times now. Nope. No idea.

 

 

 

 

 

He looks about 80 stones.

 

 

 

 

I reckon at 20A, my 20" wheeler would beat that bike in a hauling contest, and that's a tragedy (if true).

 

 

 

 

I did say:

 

 

 

An ebike's utility shouldn't be overshadowed by it's potential misuse. Why not test a whole bunch of Ananda motors at high amps? The old BBS01 controllers appear to have been iffy, but the story is... after someone on Endless Scrotum replaced the MOSFETs in his with better versions , Bafang copied him. My controller is running fine at 18A so far, but I killed my previous BBS01B controller through inept wire stripping, or inept selection of ebay trash to attempt soldering on, inept soldering skills, or programming cable failure resulting in garbled comms and bricked controller. I very much wanted to know if it was the latter, and that's the reason why I spent £20 to send the dead controller to the Amazon seller's diagnostic facility in China, because he claimed to have a gadget which could determine whether the firmware had been altered. But after 4 weeks of intense 24/7 testing using all of the tools the mighty technologically advanced Chinese government had at it's disposal, or whatever, he simply said the firmware was unreadable, so I jumped on the the opportunity provided by non-provable culpability to shake him down using a zillion long and highly negative reviews on Amazon as leverage. That's the sort of horrible customer I am - and if that "New" controller he sent which has been sat in a box on my shelf for years (it's great to have a spare) doesn't actually work, that's the sort of seller he is. Capitalism is a dog eat dog world.

it's difficult to say if the M100 from Ananda will cope with 20A. I believe in not pushing things until they break, leave alone the question of how to sort out whose liability it is for the broken kits. Also, I think 48V 15A, that's 720W input, is equivalent to the Boasch Performance and more than enough to climb hills with a crank drive.

Edited by Woosh

I killed my previous BBS01B controller through inept wire stripping, or inept selection of ebay trash to attempt soldering on, inept soldering skills, or programming cable failure resulting in garbled comms and bricked controller.

(...)

so I jumped on the the opportunity provided by non-provable culpability to shake him down using a zillion long and highly negative reviews on Amazon as leverage. That's the sort of horrible customer I am

 

I think You have answered your own question why sellers don't want to give opportunities to fck things up to customers like you.

As a real MTB it seems a bit heavy, long (less nimble) and undergeared.

As a pure commuter it's heavy with squishy forks and so-so (too short) mudguards.

 

With a stout frame and mid-drive as given it yearns to be a stylish utility bike with modest off-road ability, who could say no to that? OK for commuting, shopping, towing, gravel+ and with bar ends a spot of touring: a super-hybrid.

 

With that in mind I'd switch back to a short travel fork, the front mudguard should extend further forward and there need to be options of a top grade rack and mudflaps. A bottle mount and a simple side graphic to soften the look. Go mad, add a luggage block concealed by a badge ;)

 

[mention=33660]guerney[/mention] At 9mph 720W might climb 11% or so, or 7% if towing 40kg, with help from an unfit 85kg rider, not bad from an all-rounder.

I think You have answered your own question why sellers don't want to give opportunities to fck things up to customers like you.

 

My bike isn't fcked up. My wallet wasn't either. We're all allowed to use leverage to our advantage when legal.

The new Woosh isn't an mtb, but hybrid style with + tyres. A do anything type bike that will cope fine on offroad tracks, the comfort tyres should give a good soft ride if psi is low .
I haven't had a puncture since using Marathon Plus, at any pressure but... at low tyre pressure, there is greater surface area of tyre in contact with the ground - does cycling with tyres at lower pressure increase the likelihood of punctures?

Edited by guerney

Not on the + tyres , possible only pinch puntures if one isn't careful about weight shifting if curb hoping. Pinch puntures are more likely on non + tyres.

@guerney At 9mph 720W might climb 11% or so, or 7% if towing 40kg, with help from an unfit 85kg rider, not bad from an all-rounder.

 

There are so many threads started by people contemplating illegal motor conversions, or buying illegal mopeds. Would an unfit 25 stone/159 kg rider think performance was "not bad"? Those people deserve a shot at increasing their fitness through regular use of a legal pedelec. Useful bikes get used regularly, not used a couple of times then stored until the battery dies (fair few threads about that too).

Edited by guerney

Guerney said: "If your bike can cope with 20A 48V reliably, it'd suit..."

"people deserve a shot at increasing their fitness through regular use of a legal pedelec."

 

I heartily agree, and "maximum _rated_ continous power" suggests others do too. With a 20A controller limited to 25kph the bike would be legal but cost more with fewer customers benefitting and the vendor might be less happy to rate it at 250W.

 

Living on the downs I'm one of those few, but that's unusual and so is 25 stone. The strongest "popular MTB" here will carry a 25 stone rider wearing just shoes. An affordable strong legal decently performing bike with versatile standard fittings for easy upgrade would be great, and with accessible electrics brilliant. It's looking promising....

Edited by AntonyC

25 stone rider wearing just shoes.

 

This caused a horrifying mental image of Rapid Fatso I can't unsee. I was traumatised already.

 

 

it's difficult to say if the M100 from Ananda will cope with 20A. I believe in not pushing things until they break, leave alone the question of how to sort out whose liability it is for the broken kits. Also, I think 48V 15A, that's 720W input, is equivalent to the Boasch Performance and more than enough to climb hills with a crank drive.

 

Break 5 controllers and take a stab at approximating the exponential(?) curve of controller failure risk? Might give you an idea of what to expect when owners make firmware changes.

 

 

With a 20A controller limited to 25kph the bike would be legal but cost more

 

[mention=6303]Woosh[/mention] could offer two versions? He could charge more for the added risk of controller burnout, for the UK road legal 960W :oops: 20A version? I fully support the idea of extremely fat unfit people attempting to become less so through exercise, having been fat many times myself. When people post umming and ahhhing about whether this bike or that will or won't get their heavy unfit selves up some steep hill or other, we can simply say "Get the Woosh Big Torquer!" But it's your money and opportunity not mine, I'll stop going on about it.

Edited by guerney

  • Author
I am a risk averse person. Also, I can't knowingly create a potential trouble spot for Andy here who has to sort out problems later.

It'd survive a Carrington Event then.

 

 

The Woosh Big Torquer delivers big torque to climb any hill

 

BIG TORQUE BIGGER TROUSERS

 

 

p.s. Kerching my marketing fee

Hopefully not All Torque and no Trousers.

My bike isn't fcked up.

 

Lets agree on de gustibus non est disputandum.

 

We're all allowed to use leverage to our advantage when legal.

 

I am not in position to decide if what you did was a blackmail or not, but the way I see it, it was a nasty and unethical.

I am not in position to decide if what you did was a blackmail or not, but the way I see it, it was a nasty and unethical.

 

Yes, that sounds like me. I will strike again.

Edited by guerney

What about Torquere?

 

Latin torquēre

The term torque (from Latin torquēre, 'to twist') is said to have been suggested by James Thomson and appeared in print in April, 1884.

 

Nice bike, its good to see different systems being used, i prefer the traditional rear rack set up.

 

I wonder if it is worth putting bearings for all your motors on your website, NTN ,SKF and Enduro bearings are good.

 

I would also stock blind bearings removal tools and a video on how they are used.

 

Thanks for your support on the forum.

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