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Disabled cyclist; with one bad choice behind her, needs help with a new bike

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So I really can't get what I need unless it's a special build?

If you reach a stage without a clear way forward it can help if you revisit your needs.

 

Gather them all together in one post, one on each line. For each one rather than what the bike's like (needs to be light) make it what the bike does (lift into the boot). Put a figure on it if you can (about 20kg max) and preferably explain why (I've one weak arm) or what else might work for you (a low towball rack) and what wouldn't (no space for a boot ramp).

 

Then hopefully we can get busy devising viable work-arounds so the more you can say about yourself and your terrain and use the better. As others have mentioned small wheels would help in many ways and there are other ways to smooth the ride.

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I got 43 miles from my 19.2Ah battery at maximum assistance, over this mixed terrain. It was easy.

 

hahon-helios-43-miles-Screenshot-2024-03-08-at-05-13-13-Google-Maps.thumb.jpg.439c5deb6bddf23dc9c755ddc14e1522.jpg

 

The battery on my Dahon Helios is rear rack mounted, but the only time this caused issues, was when I attempted to ascend a 45 degree angled stony dirt tracked slope... the motor was game, and I guess if I had a throttle my bike could have ascended some of it, before I fell off after the bike tipped upwards because weight is imbalanced. Luckily, that wasn't a necessary journey. I've experienced difficulties weighing my bike, but will try again at some point.... however, it measured 22.4kg on my last attempt a couple of months ago - that's with numerous soldered on lights, side mirrors, rear rack, mudguards, various mounts, extension bar, 19.2Ah battery, two Oxford lollipops etc. Unfortunately, I didn't weigh my bike before conversion.

 

None of the OP's bike fold, therefore how about adding 5.6kg BBS01B kit + 3.6kg 19.2Ah battery + about 2Kg of mudguards and pannier rack to this 10kg bike? = about 21.2Kg? A bit less, with a smaller battery. Wide puncture resistant Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres would increase weight, as could a comfy padded sprung saddle, possibly a replacement swept back handlebar. Looks like there would be more an upright riding position than my Dahon. Again I have no idea if this mini velo is any good to start with, but if the frame is ok, all components could be upgraded, such as the disc brakes. The battery could be mounted to the lower downtube, for better balance. 20" wheels for more torque. Of course the BBS01B's controller would need it's firmware tweaked.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185260730532

s-l1600.jpg

 

Steel framed Tokyo bike Mini Velos might be better made, heavier, but no disc brakes:

 

https://tokyobike.co.uk/products/tokyobike-mini-velo-121371787

 

I know a rack and mudguards can be installed, because I've seen them on ebay:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/335274026493

 

s-l1600.jpg

 

 

Alternatively: The Crusa's kit seems to work well for the OP, therefore perhaps the OP could get the hub motor kit transferred from the Crusa to a lightweight mini velo, while replacing the old rackmounted battery with a downtube?

Edited by guerney

Can you please tell us again what are your priorities and personal situation? I am afraid as mentioned above you will have to make some compromises.

I am converting a bike for my wife right now. Big wheels, mid drive, suspension, long range, but it won't be light.

 

https://www.evanscycles.com/brand/cannondale/adventure-eq-hybrid-bike-930712#colcode=93071208

 

Maybe you would consider a moped?

Cube Kathmandu 750wh, Bosch gen 4 performance CX 85nm motor. ABS braking. About £3k

Motor will kick in pretty much on a smidgen of a turn on the pedals. It's not really dependent on anything other than making the pedals go round.

Starting off on my Bosch(same motor) with the pedal at about 10 o clock, the motor will kick in by the time the pedal gets to 8 o clock(or maybee 9), it's pretty much instant.

750wh will probably give you 90 miles on eco, or 45-50 on turbo, turbo is 340% so plenty of oomf

731332_F1_00.thumb.png.01cd468e2b158c706f3e123e8618175f.png

Edited by AndyBike

I have a feeling what OP needs is a full throttle, cadence sensor and a high torque.

Cube Kathmandu 750wh, Bosch gen 4 performance CX 85nm motor. ABS braking. About £3k

Motor will kick in pretty much on a smidgen of a turn on the pedals. It's not really dependent on anything other than making the pedals go round.

Starting off on my Bosch(same motor) with the pedal at about 10 o clock, the motor will kick in by the time the pedal gets to 8 o clock, so pretty much instant.

750wh will probably give you 90 miles on eco, or 45-50 on turbo, turbo is 340% so plenty of oomf

[ATTACH=full]56790[/ATTACH]

 

1709894995790.png.728f67d5ab2893fc1e170d5adb62ae99.png

I have a feeling what OP needs is a full throttle, cadence sensor and a high torque.

The closet I can think of is https://wisperbikes.com/shop/e-bikes/folding-ebikes/wisper-806-folding-electric-bike-2020/ with full throttle.

Bicycle weight

375Wh: 21kg

575Wh: 22kg

700Wh: 22.5kg

 

Disadvantage is rack battery and the OP wanted larger wheels

 

Or full throttle low crossbar tailwind https://wisperbikes.com/shop/e-bikes/step-through-ebikes/tailwind-comfort-low-crossbar/

 

Weight:

360Wh: 21Kg

540Wh: 22kg

 

Disadvantage is low crossbar rather than completely free step through

Edited by Peter.Bridge

Cube Kathmandu 750wh, Bosch gen 4 performance CX 85nm motor. ABS braking. About £3k

Motor will kick in pretty much on a smidgen of a turn on the pedals. It's not really dependent on anything other than making the pedals go round.

Starting off on my Bosch(same motor) with the pedal at about 10 o clock, the motor will kick in by the time the pedal gets to 8 o clock(or maybee 9), it's pretty much instant.

750wh will probably give you 90 miles on eco, or 45-50 on turbo, turbo is 340% so plenty of oomf

[ATTACH type=full" alt="731332_F1_00.png]56790[/ATTACH]

It uses a torque multiplying system. We already determined that that system wouldn't be suitable.

The lady rider in question has already mentioned her health issues and lack of leg stamina , we have already duduced that the torque multipliers are no good for her and the fact she currently has a similar app controlled bike confirms that.

[ATTACH=full]56791[/ATTACH]

Yes, but he said he wanted something with power, and simply quoting battery size isnt going to giver you that. You could have a 20ah battery, but if the nm of the motor is only 35nm, then getting up a steep hill isnt happening. Plus the one i quoted is 85nm which is pretty powerful,and about 21ah, with front mount battery and mid drive centralizes all the weight. Rather than putting it all over the back.

The lady rider in question has already mentioned her health issues and lack of leg stamina , we have already duduced that the torque multipliers are no good for her and the fact she currently has a similar app controlled bike confirms that.

I agree that cadence sensor is probably most appropriate. However, her experience with the torque multiplier bike does not completely rule out torque multiplier. That bike is light but is a particularly low powered one, and it might be the low power that is the real issue.

A Wisper Tailwind might work it is a bit lighter , though one needs to test ride for fit and operational use so a visit to a dealer or 7oaks in Kent is needed .

It will be fruitless without trying any such bike .

A Wisper can be 100% legal with a fully operational throttle if tested as such.

It isn't a true step thru but does have a slightly lower raking top bar, the battery is mounted forward in the beefier downtube. Weigth wise 21/22kg is stated , if this is true then it is about as light as an OEM full size bike can be.

 

If one needs to lift it in to a boot of a vehicle then size will be important and tbh one is back to looking at folding options and removing the battery to make lifting lighter, removing a battery can make a bike 3 - 3.5kg lighter as significant difference.

 

1709898908104.thumb.png.875d40b91b7ecc4498dc008dd5efaf27.png

I use these on a 20" wheel bike and they're comfortable. Small wheels are lighter, the bike's upright and fits nicely on the train.

 

Schwalbe Big Apple HS430 Tyre 55-406 20 Inch

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/tyres-small/schwalbe-big-apple-hs430-tyre-with-reflex-20-x-215-inch-55406/

 

SR Suntour SP12 NCX Suspension Seat Post

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/seat-posts/sr-suntour-sp12-ncx-suspension-seat-post-350mm-x-272mm-black/

For people who can't pedal very hard and smaller riders, bikes with small wheels are generally more suitable because they're easier to handle and give more torque.

 

My sister got a Woosh Rambletta last year. She's 74 years old, hasn't done an iota of exercise in more than 20 years and a bit over-weight. She finds the Rambletta perfect for shopping trips and other local journeys when she doesn't want to use the car. As long as you can rotate the pedals, you can use the throttle, or just set in on level 5 to ride it like a moped while you pedal air. When in moped mode, I estimate that the range would be about 15 to 20 miles with me (100kg) riding it with a few steep hills.

 

I need a low step through. Tick.

with shedloads of power . Tick

to take me not very fast Tick

everywhere, even up hills. Tick

I needs to be light. Half tick. Lighter than many, but still awkward to fold and carry.

with big wheels. No tick. That shouldn't be an issue. It rides very stabley.

suspension. No tick, but its big tyres absorb the bumps quite well.

very sit up and beg. tick.

 

In fact a complete cross between the 2 bikes I have . Hmmm!

 

Some of your requirements work against each other. For light weight, you need a small battery, thin wheels and tyres and no suspension. If you want comfort, it's not going to be light. High power and small (light) batteries don't go together

suspension. No tick,

 

Suspension seatpost and/or stem might help.

Suspension seatpost and/or stem might help.

All Rambletta have suspension seat post.

Suspension seatpost and/or stem might help.

The problem is it adds weight. I don't think it's necessary anyway. when I rode the Rambletta it absorbed all the bumps OK, and I'm used to full suspension on my own bike. If anything, it felt a bit squidgy.

The monoshock fork adds about half a kg of weight. I agree that it doesn't add much as you sit up, there is little weight placed on the front tyre.
  • Author

I am slowly writing why I think each part of the bike I think I want:

 

Do you want the part of my disability that prevents/affects something or the fact that it does?

 

Prefer upright position as I have scar tissue around my lower 5 vertebrae as a result of bilateral hip displasia

 

or prefer upright position as it puts less strain on my lower back

 

I am drawn to the idea of using the crusa and upcycling/using a new frame/changing the battery housing - I'm an Eco-Designer after all and buying new hurt!

 

I am working my way through everyone's comments but it's been a busy day at work today, first event of the year on Sunday

  • Author

These are my hills home from just about anywhere

 

They don't look steep but they are

Screenshot_20240308_191622_Maps.thumb.jpg.566e15cba9dfa8b1a27f19f6d1d5511c.jpg

Screenshot_20240308_191639_Maps.thumb.jpg.a4fe46d6f3bd6e031d6ead6ef76ab703.jpg

Fazua looks pretty new. Can't you return it? It is super expensive.
  • Author

My brother built it for me and shipped it here from sweden

 

We may have had a miscommunication about how capable I am, or he might not have listened- not sure which

 

So I'll be getting a list of its components and then trying to sell the thing (which is in fairness a very pretty thing and if we could scrunch the 2 bikes into one would be perfect)7

What is wrong with Woosh? Is it only battery at the back and weight?
  • Author

Yes, it was heavy for me 7 years ago when I got it; but 2 further surgeries and 2 new diagnoses mean it's unsustainable and I'm not likely to improve - I hope going physically downhill is a few years off yet

 

But I have had to make adaptations in my life & work

 

It needs a new battery and the pannier rack needs welding or replacing as do quite a few nuts and bolts that have rusty bits on them, but getting it up a step, parking next to a post or changing its angle in a small space requires picking up the back and hefting it & I can't. Not "I can't without pain" but quite simply there isn't enough umph in my joints, so I have to put my whole body weight behind it and my joints don't like that at all

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