Hi, the era of the Ferrari Testarossa which are now in some peoples opinions controversially being converted to ev. How would you convert this ? Thank you.

Hi, the era of the Ferrari Testarossa which are now in some peoples opinions controversially being converted to ev. How would you convert this ? Thank you.

How far do you want to go? How fast do you want to go?

https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/mid-drive-pashley-sovereign-tsdz2.37398/post-708322

Not a Raleigh but maybe Pashley from same era is built similar apart from bottom bracket threading?

Best wishes :-)

The brakes will be hopelessly inadequate.

Thanks for the replies. It would only be for preserving the knees uphill/ along the straights is fast enough so something lightweight and low power which is unlikely to impact safety of the brakes. The black bag/ bottle could be used to hide some of the electrics

something low power and discreet like this

 

Apollo Phaze Mens Electric Mountain Bike - M, L Frames | Halfords UK

AKM100/Q100H motor from BMSbattery:

https://bmsbattery.com/motor/631-16312-q100h-36v350w-rear-driving-ebike-hub-motor-ebike-kit.html#/213-rpm-201

Kt controller kit from Topbikekit or BMSB (S06S). Block connector type.

https://bmsbattery.com/controller/1006-s06s-250watts-torque-simulation-sine-wave-controller.html

Bottle battery from Aliexpress

https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005001889766799.html?src=google&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21GBP%21180.91%21148.79%21%21%21%21%21%40%2112000034614028186%21ppc%21%21%21&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=494-037-6276&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&gclsrc=aw.ds&albagn=888888&ds_e_adid=&ds_e_matchtype=&ds_e_device=c&ds_e_network=x&ds_e_product_group_id=&ds_e_product_id=en1005001889766799&ds_e_product_merchant_id=107737469&ds_e_product_country=GB&ds_e_product_language=en&ds_e_product_channel=online&ds_e_product_store_id=&ds_url_v=2&albcp=17859500389&albag=&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAsaS7BhDPARIsAAX5cSAzihggaf4aejE3Qpo3C8jHx0TB35w441cGt9UWnmrUc5TGrf5ntWoaAqO9EALw_wcB&gatewayAdapt=glo2fra

 

Toolbag for controller under seat

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305095703503?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D277988%2C277309%2C278303%2C277737%26meid%3D92bc9932fdc144378da70627a86ee916%26pid%3D101875%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D116264423333%26itm%3D305095703503%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DSimVIDwebV3WithCPCExpansionEmbeddingSearchQuerySemanticBroadMatchSingularityRecall%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2332490.c101875.m1851&itmprp=cksum%3A30509570350392bc9932fdc144378da70627a86ee916%7Cenc%3AAQAJAAABUNthdh9o32sOfKme0krmx3yc5y0DRWWwwpiraCEsA5rOcanQjqu91drTeDElZLF31uaWQXaQ2pNTl5IMyA1OfooQwqEcJUvtG9LvKPKHgcRzphx12iPvBSva61o%252BMhuWL%252FrjeNcDGezQ%252FdxQfAGV3ekq3A8AaWn0XRVsErA%252FQBhH9y%252FICYKeZfPY1Fk9FBIILvEMgsXAgccDRY2r%252BKNkSi7j5hIaBwQjSS6Czq7yRr9lh2Av%252FRphj3Hr94nzn4ovjW%252Fi34YmCCLEHAhQvHJUZs%252FyDuwFAq%252B%252B%252F83BRsoj9bIsMbr7yG5NeXiCyvdKTD7kpIbRuDPI4lBAV6SO9F1eZz0WTBUV8tWgfoEbVQbEdAmkMOSaKNhx7jXXCQYrRsebneaWG%252FTuntEd8fuCM6at5%252BQMed%252Fp1JP2YzO7I6ZBO9%252BgjtLBhIIPPM1AaRttvQVhOw%253D%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2332490&itmmeta=01JFSV8F0EVQN4RQD0FAZB6HAZ

 

To be honest, I wouldn't bother converting that bike. It would be better to leave it as it is and get a cheap catalogue bike to convert. When you have a motor, the bike doesn't really matter unless you need comfort, off-road capability or something like that. Also, disc brakes are better for an electric bike.

Thanks for the suggestion

This is where many of us started, but in my (admittedly limited) experience in the world of conversions the words "lightweight", "low power" and "uphill" don't belong in the same sentence. Lightweight and low power won't get you up hills very well.

Whatever kit you end up fitting, you will inevitably go faster than you did before, and the added weight will generate extra momentum downhill which will find those caliper brakes wanting - particularity in the wet.

 

In my lifetime I've had rod brakes and caliper brakes with steel rims - marginally better than putting a foot on the tyre! Caliper, centre-pulls, cantilever and v-brakes - all with alloy rims and OK on an analogue bike if adjusted regularly.

One of my conversions is a 90's rigid MTB that came with canti's. I very soon substituted v-brakes and these will stop the now quite heavy bike, but at the cost of rapid pad or rim wear. I choose very soft pads (Clarks Elite) to save the rims. If I could fit disc brakes to it I wouldn't hesitate.

I recently swapped the v-brakes on my hybrid to Zoom full hydraulic discs. The difference is like night and day- and I don't have to worry about wearing out the rims.

I'm no speed freak, but I wouldn't contemplate converting anything that doesn't at least have v-brakes as a minimum. My beloved 90's Claud Butler touring bike has canti's, but it stays as it was built because I know that a conversion will completely spoil the feel of the bike and it will still be an inadequate compromise.

If you are determined to convert the Raleigh you need to check the drop out dimensions.

It needs to be 100mm for a front hub or 135mm for a rear hub.

Edited December 23, 20241 yr by Cadence

Thanks,

This is where many of us started, but in my (admittedly limited) experience in the world of conversions the words "lightweight", "low power" and "uphill" don't belong in the same sentence. Lightweight and low power won't get you up hills very well.

Whatever kit you end up fitting, you will inevitably go faster than you did before, and the added weight will generate extra momentum downhill which will find those caliper brakes wanting - particularity in the wet.

 

In my lifetime I've had rod brakes and caliper brakes with steel rims - marginally better than putting a foot on the tyre! Caliper, centre-pulls, cantilever and v-brakes - all with alloy rims and OK on an analogue bike if adjusted regularly.

One of my conversions is a 90's rigid MTB that came with canti's. I very soon substituted v-brakes and these will stop the now quite heavy bike, but at the cost of rapid pad or rim wear. I choose very soft pads (Clarks Elite) to save the rims. If I could fit disc brakes to it I wouldn't hesitate.

I recently swapped the v-brakes on my hybrid to Zoom full hydraulic discs. The difference is like night and day- and I don't have to worry about wearing out the rims.

I'm no speed freak, but I wouldn't contemplate converting anything that doesn't at least have v-brakes as a minimum. My beloved 90's Claud Butler touring bike has canti's, but it stays as it was built because I know that a conversion will completely spoil the feel of the bike and it will still be an inadequate compromise.

If you are determined to convert the Raleigh you need to check the drop out dimensions.

It needs to be 100mm for a front hub or 135mm for a rear hub.

Thanks for sharing, I was thinking something low powered like this may be ideal

 

That's the sort of bike that spends a lot of time above 25km/h. You would have to decide the outcome you want before choosing how to get there.

 

Assistance only on the hills, and try to retain the above 25km/h percentage, or accept that post conversion you will spend far less time above that speed?

 

If the former, very limited options as any added weight is a problem. Swytch amongst others in theory try to solve this, but have too many other issues to recommend. Probably the lightest front hub motor you can find with as close to zero drag when not helping as possible, and a tiny battery calculated to match the amount of uphill you anticipate. But even that much added resistance and weight is noticeable to a speedy rider, and the drug of assist is addictive.

 

If the latter, you would be better choosing a different bike. Any normal kit will be like towing a caravan with your Ferrari, with dodgy brakes.

Thanks for sharing, a front wheel motor in silver with a bottle battery or a small friction drive may work best for a little bit of boost and maintaining the look

I wouldn't convert this bike and for sure I wouldn't use friction motor in UK due to very wet climate. I also dislike noisy systems.

The Cytronex kit is worth looking at for what you want, but at over £1000 it's very overpriced for what it is.

https://www.cytronex.com/

Sympathetic

 

https://store.pedalrevolution.co.uk/components/gears-drivetrain/vivax-assist--the-e-bike-system__1777975

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NT0E3tBOWT0

That would have been perfect but I set a very strict budget and unfortunately that kit exceeded it by a fiver

Revos is no longer in production also it is/was always in wheel contact.

For les than half the price of the Cytronex (and with better customer service)

https://wooshbikes.co.uk/?hubkits#xf07kit

But probably a bit bulkier and more obvious than you want; and with a bag battery rather than a bottle one.

 

I'm not one of the group that think it essential to have hydraulic disk brakes on any ebike, but the brakes on your bike (and my similar Claude Butler) were always pretty terrible.

https://store.pedalrevolution.co.uk/components/gears-drivetrain/vivax-assist--the-e-bike-system__1777975

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NT0E3tBOWT0

Vivax is (was) a company local to me. They went under after spending a lot of money on a specialist building / shop just before Covid hit, they never recovered. The shop is now a specialised pet food store.

A Q100H is a very good choice, but the controller needs to go inside a box and it does add a little clutter. It would have to be front wheel, because the rear dropouts are smaller?

 

For this Raleigh Mixte, I used a low cost TSDZ2 mid drive. For me, this is less expensive than buying a motor/wheel and controller, I had some teething problems with my motor, not being used to a true 250W motor. I've ridden it 2000 miles this year. Top speed is based on hardI am able to pedal that day. It's torque sense, and the system is intended to respond to your pedal pressure. It used to be 18 mph and now it's about 24 mph. This bike is from the 70's, and my best days are from there.

 

 

The caliper brakes are fine for pedelec speeds. This bike comes in around 40 pounds.I use a small 26 cell 48V battery made with Sanyo GA cells. Good for 300WH and almost 40 miles.

Edited December 24, 20241 yr by harrys

Topbikekit do a 1.44 kg akm-75 front hub motor, 201 rpm (which is fine in a 700c wheel with 15.5 mph motor cut off)

Very little resistance above that speed. Maybe combine with 36v 10Ah bag battery that attaches to saddle with room for controller eg Woosh (1.8kg)

 

https://wooshbikes.co.uk/?batteries

 

[mention=6303]Woosh[/mention] have you got the Tongsheng 85TS kit in stock, would that be a possibility ?

Hi [mention=24073]Vin[/mention] - as you've seen, opinions vary - here's some more to add to the pile:

• The brakes
  - if we take a front hub conversion as an example, you'll be adding the weight of the motor plus the electronics and a small bag to hold them - so around 2.5Kg. Then there's a battery - if your'e going for something like a 7Ah then let's say 1Kg, so around 3.5Kg.
  - Now, if you're brakes are serving you well now then IMHO by just adding 3.5Kg won't make much of a difference.
  - plus if you are only going to be using the motor for marginal assistance then your road speed isn't going to be much if any different from what it is on the unassisted version
  
• Having used a bike with a TSDZ2 mid drive conversion for a few years now, my fitness level has improved and I don't have to use as much 'e' in my biking as I used to, thus I resurected my road bike with a front hub conversion (Aikema 100SX).
  
• In that conversion I'm still working out the most discrete places for the KT Controller and wires but the battery fits nicely in the seat pack.
  
• Oh, and early days (less than a 100 miles so far) but the ride it gives me is very enjoyable and because the total weight of the bike (less tools) is around 14Kg, much of the ride is over 25Kph and thus battery usage is frugal with my 8.4Ah battery likely good for 60+ miles (yet to be fully range tested).
  
• 
  

Hi [mention=24073]Vin[/mention] - as you've seen, opinions vary - here's some more to add to the pile:

• The brakes
  - if we take a front hub conversion as an example, you'll be adding the weight of the motor plus the electronics and a small bag to hold them - so around 2.5Kg. Then there's a battery - if your'e going for something like a 7Ah then let's say 1Kg, so around 3.5Kg.
  - Now, if you're brakes are serving you well now then IMHO by just adding 3.5Kg won't make much of a difference.
  - plus if you are only going to be using the motor for marginal assistance then your road speed isn't going to be much if any different from what it is on the unassisted version
  
• Having used a bike with a TSDZ2 mid drive conversion for a few years now, my fitness level has improved and I don't have to use as much 'e' in my biking as I used to, thus I resurected my road bike with a front hub conversion (Aikema 100SX)[ATTACH type=full" alt="PXL_20241217_155057466.jpg]61550[/ATTACH].
  
• In that conversion I'm still working out the most discrete places for the KT Controller and wires but the battery fits nicely in the seat pack.
  
• Oh, and early days (less than a 100 miles so far) but the ride it gives me is very enjoyable and because the total weight of the bike (less tools) is around 14Kg, much of the ride is over 25Kph and thus battery usage is frugal with my 8.4Ah battery likely good for 60+ miles (yet to be fully range tested).
  
• 
  

It's been 5 days since he posted. It's finished now. We're just waiting for the photos.

Thanks everyone for the ideas. I was out for a long fun on my wifes Carrera e vengeance today and have never ridden it properly before. I took it because needed to take it somewhere in the car first and only had access to a supermini (no rack) and was the Array wouldn't fit in it. also it is fitted with Marathon plus as well as tyre anti puncture liners which have needed in now and work well and didn't want a puncture on this run. The Argos folder would have fitted but didn't have the range needed. I really enjoyed riding the Carrera mtb and got to thinking each of the bikes has its own character and electrifying the 531 racer especially would be like replacing the engine in a Testarossa with batteries and take away from its soul especially the sort of bodge job I would probably end up doing.