I still may try push button control to keep is simple but am looking at Hall Effect Push Buttons does anyone have any comments on these types of switches.

 

Hall effect linear sprung return

 

Or Hall effect momentary I suspect this is just a push switch for hars environments ie uses magnetic fiels instead of contacts?

I've got part one completed now with the bike built and tested. Its around 9kg at the moment and the reason I mention this is that, its amazing how different it feels to ride.

 

http://www.dhdesign-uk.com/bikes/bike2.jpg

 

Once you take off the gears and all the other stuff it seems to go up hills so much easier. I had always thought that it was pointless having a light bike if you could just go on a diet and loose a few pounds and it would be the same. Seems not though.

 

I am therefore hoping that will translate into an electric bike with different characteristics taking less power to move forward and up, leading to less stress on the motor and battery.

 

Waiting for my bits to turn up before I can get cracking.

I built a similar bike myself once and a bit like you have done, just stripped away as many bits as possible to save weight. 9kg is quite impressive if you can get the ebike conversion under 5kg you have a 14kg ebike :-)

I've added up the weight of the bits and it should come to just under 4kg so I am aiming to get under 13kg for the project. Hopefully I will get some progress up next week.

 

Once you take off the gears and all the other stuff it seems to go up hills so much easier. I had always thought that it was pointless having a light bike if you could just go on a diet and loose a few pounds and it would be the same. Seems not though.

 

Yes, it's not the same thing at all. The reason is that within any age band, the body automatically adjusts the muscle strength to accurately match the body mass, so long as that mass is within normal bounds and not at obese level. The mechanism is that normal living movements with a body weight applies the right amount of exercise relative to that weight to keep the muscles fit and suitable.

 

Therefore plus or minus a few kilos of body weight makes no difference to personal performance, while plus or minus bike kilos does make a real difference.

 

I think you are on the right lines to create an e-bike that's nicer to ride.

.

Edited October 1, 201114 yr by flecc

My four 5000mah 6s lipos, charger, psu, paraboard and cables have landed in the UK

 

Just have to wait for them to clear customs

What you got for if you don't mind me asking?

I Ordered:-

 

Turnigy A-6-10 200W Balance charger

Turnigy T-20Pro Quality 16A Power Supply

EC3 Battery Harness 14AWG for 2 Packs in Series

2x EC3 Battery Harness 14AWG for 2 Packs in Parallel

EC3 plugs (10pairs/set)

Hobby King Battery Monitor 6S

4x ZIPPY Flightmax 5000mAh 6S1P 15C 4

Parallel charging Board for 6 packs 2~6S

 

£205 inc del.

That's a pretty powerful pack, what kind of range do you think it will give? I've only ordered x2 5s 4000ah packs but am hoping for around 20miles assisted

Assuming 20 watts per mile at 20mph it should be around 18 miles range throttle only, allowing for a max 80% discharge.

 

I calculate your pack to give you 7miles range - that's just throttle though - obviously you'll get more than that if you peddle as well.

I use about 7amp hrs using a 10amp pack for 21miles with pedalling. But that's using alot of throttle.

 

I did use a 5 amP pack to do a 18mile round trip but only ever used the throttle sparingly on hills etc.

 

Least with the smaller batteries you can always add a couple more if you need more range!

I guess range is subjective when potentially so many factors are involved. The only true measure must be an average speed throttle only on a flat run. Following on from earlier in this thread I wonder whether a lighter bike will have a significant increase in range. I think I will have to invest in a cycle analyst even though they are quite expensive.

 

My batteries are going onto a plane in Singapore.

All the bits have finally arrived - thanks Alan for the hub and wheel etc. The batteries won't fit into the expensive Camelpak bottle so I've got an aluminium one now and cut the top off it.

 

Really nervous now though as the batteries come with next to useless plugs on the end and won't even plug into the Turnigy charger. I have to cut them off and solder on some EC3 plugs all new to me. Thanks Amigafan2003 I pretty much copied your list of supplies.

 

So assuming I can get the plugs on and charge the batteries worried I'll do it wrong, the plan was to connect the batteries in series and then charge them using one of the two balance plugs. No idea which one so I may just charge them separately on the balance board for now.

 

Then its the wiring up, probably straightforward as the (unknown controller) is prewired with Anderson connectors, I may ditch these as the are pretty fat and would need waterproofing.

 

Lots of fingers crossed!

Most chargers are only good for 6 series rc lipos.

So the above method won't work.

 

What you can do is the following.

 

Any battery you parallel you can join up. Eg

Two 6s lipo 5000mah batteries.

 

You can join both larger wires positive and negative.

Then you can solder each of the 7 balancing wires together.

This way instead of a 6s 5000mah battery you have one larger 6s 10000mah with balance wires to charge using a normal lipo charger.

 

But that's what para board effectively do without soldering. But the solder is a more permanent connection.

@dadplus2 - when you're putting on the new connectors only do one wire at a time - you don't want two bare wires from the battery pack to touch!

 

have you got a good soldering iron? Have you done any soldering before?

Most people can solder... Its just practice that makes perfect.

You should be fine.

 

Good advice on the connectors though. Definetly do one cable at a time and make sure the other cable is far out the way. Don't want it shorting out @ 100+ amps ;-)

Not one of my smoothest moves....

 

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l82/_NRG_/other/Bike/E-Bike/DSCF4760.jpg

 

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l82/_NRG_/other/Bike/E-Bike/DSCF4761.jpg

I've yet to have any mishaps in the electrics on the ebike but have had a couple of house hold issues!

Try not to blow your fingers off!

First run

 

Well after spending a good few hours in the garage leaning how to solder putting all my EC3 plugs on then soldering wires heatshrinking then Anderson connectors I was ready to test out the system.

 

Battery charged and checked all wiring ready, connect the batteries, flickering red light at the throttle and NOTHING!

 

Phoned Alan (sorry Alan thanks for listening) had another look at the fuse and it must of part blown 15amp fuse, I believe the controller is limited to 13amps. Changed the fuse all good wheel spins.

 

The set about routing the cables along the bike using some half round PVC trunking and cable ties. I than made up some rubber sleeving to go around the controller and to keep the top of the battery bottle on.

 

[ATTACH]2765.vB[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]2764.vB[/ATTACH]

 

Finally got it all up together this morning weighed it 13.8kg bit heavier than I was hoping and took it for a test ride. All very nice and smooth, I have a steep hill just round the corner so went up that relying more and more on the motor to see how it coped. All good until it popped. The fuse again well to be more accurate the fuse holder. Close inspection revealed it was rated at 10amps. Need to find a better holder!

 

[ATTACH]2763.vB[/ATTACH]

Nicely done. And an excellent weight!

Just have to get that fuse holder sorted and away you go!

 

I take it that the bike will be fair weathermwith the controller so low down?

That's a very neat looking job. Well done.

 

It will be interesting to see how long/how many charge cycles some of these Lipo batteries manage compared to the A123 packs I have been using.

 

I just had a failed cell after 22 months, 2500 miles and about 400 charge cycles.

 

I had hoped the A123 packs would last double that, though I guess it was easy to replace one cell

 

Regards

 

Jerry

Edited October 9, 201114 yr by jerrysimon

I'd imagine the a123 cells are more robust and a bit safer.

Lipo in soft cases are quite vulnerable.

 

The actual batteries are rated at huge c rates and resistance is very low. I'd hope to see with the application of an ebike means you don't really stress the cells any where near what they are originally intended to run at. I'd hope for a years worth of charges at least in everyday use and charging under the 1c rate.

 

Some people say having read on other forums they should be good for 800 charges but I'll await and see. I'd be happy with a years use as you can buy another set of 4bricks of lipo at £100.

 

However there's more hassle and higher risk on the batteries. The charge stations have to be watched rather than the alloy counter parts that you can just plug in and charge and leave and let the Bms and circuits take away the hassles.

 

But then you'll loose knowledge of what's going on with the cells.

 

They should perform well in small packs if you need it. And the cells are easy to break up or make into larger configurations and or voltages.

Edited October 9, 201114 yr by Scottyf

Cheers guys, these batteries seemed to have no problems under load nothing go warm. I picked the nano lipos as they seemed to have a good spec, lightweight, very little resistance and therefore not be too stressed under load. They also apparently have twice the life cycle of a normal Lipo battery.

 

This should be an all weather bike (hopefully) as I intend to encase the controller and wiring in rubber. I need to improve on this part of the project and also put in some sort of plug so I can disconnect the battery bottle easily.

 

http://www.dhdesign-uk.com/bikes/IMG_0846.JPG

 

I will also black out the hub to make it look at bit nicer.

Edited October 9, 201114 yr by Dadplus2

Would it not be better to place the controller in a small triangular frame bag instead of wrapping it in rubber...the controller needs some cooling and wrapping it in rubber is probably not a wise idea. Also it will move it out of the way of muck thrown up from the front wheel.

 

What are you using to monitor the LVC of each cell?

Would it not be better to place the controller in a small triangular frame bag instead of wrapping it in rubber...the controller needs some cooling and wrapping it in rubber is probably not a wise idea. Also it will move it out of the way of muck thrown up from the front wheel.

 

What are you using to monitor the LVC of each cell?

 

I've changed this now so the wiring is encased in rubber, allowing the controller to keep cool. I probably won't use this bike in really bad weather.

 

I currently have no method of monitoring each cell on the bike, when I charge the batteries I can see how the cells discharged and whether it was even. I could invest in a cycle analyst but they are pricey and I don't think it can monitor each cell.

 

Not even sure how this could be achieved.