DBye

Just an aside -Earliest patent that I can find that looks like an electric mid motor kit and is directed to pedal assist (rather than a full motor cycle) is by Ettore Bugatti of Paris, and claims a first filing date of 1942. It appears to be a kit that clamps onto the frame and transmits power via a tube through the bottom bracket to a three arm spider that bolts onto the chain ring. The crank shaft runs through the tube and also connects to the spider via a freewheel type mechanism. Anyone know of anything earlier? CH237118A.pdf

I wonder how it attaches? Magnets wouldn't work on an aluminium body. An adhesive maybe? -But if the chased car is particularly dirty that may prevent good grip. Guess it doesn't matter. It would be simply one more tool in the arsenal.

This issue dissapear for a few weeks then came back early last week. I took it back to Oxygen. They diagnosed it as a controller error. New controller (£58ish) fitted and I'm back on the road.

I ride the S-Cross CB (cable disc brakes, smaller range rear cassettes, lower grade suspension forks compared to the MTB version). The CB is kitted out for a commute with rack and mudguards, and a REALLY neat integrated bell on the brake lever (small things...). In hindsight I'm not sure the commuter add-ons were worth it and I'd probably have been better off with the straight MTB version. On these forums there have been a few people!e buying the S-Cross in any form and you can take the lack of discussion and feedback as evidence that most people are satisfied with their purchase. In my case I feel I'm putting their warranty through its paces, I feel I'm there every 3 months or so. I've had: Spokes replaces, wheel trued and tensioned (ended up have wheel rebuilt privately as didn't fix the issue) Battery connector adjusted due to intermittent cut out New frame from cracked down tube The bike is currently showing a display communication error and I'm going to contact Oxygen again shortly. I think I'm the exception. Oxygens service is good if brusk. Personally, I'll buy a different brand next time, but I have seen people riding found on much older versions of their bikes so user experience does seem to vary. The bike when working is quick (when derestricted, I don't recommend modifying the controller you gain most from simply adjusting the controller secret settings) and comfortable. I get 22mph max before I spin out, there are reports of 25mph on the MTB version.

Ok thanks will give it closer inspection when I can. On way in I tried disconnecting the brake sensors and throttle but kept receiving the error. There are a couple of points on the frame where the cable rubs (some useless rubber grommets are provided but they never sit in the required place for long). I'll check there first.

I'll come clean. "Error code bingo" isn't a fair way to describe it. This is the first time the display has shown a proper error code. I'm more venting that once again there is a problem with this bike following: Broken frame Spokes issues Intermittent cut out (due in part to insecure battery connector and controller shunt mod drawing too high a current) Written down that doesn't look like much, but every time I think I've sorted a niggle a new on pops up. I've had a period of recent stability riding the bike on my normal commute. I've not got round to measuring the watts produced yet and have simply been content that it has been running fine in "normal" mode for the time being.

Today's Error code is Error Code 9. "Display Communication Error" according to the manual. Checked the wiring looms over, all seem ok. Anyone any thoughts on sorting this one out? This is the worst game of bingo I've ever played. I really don't want to collect all the error codes.

Thanks for the suggestions. I've heard good things about the BT DTR T2100 box. Is the software the same as the recent HUMAX offerings? She'd like to avoid Sky and Virgin due to an adversion to subscription charges. [mention=11305]soundwave[/mention] Kodi is great but I need something mother in law proof. My initial plan was to get a kodi set up at home and then give my old but perfectly working Tvonics PVR to her. To that end I bought an IPTV streamer to stream the tv signal over my internal network (http://www.vboxcomm.com/products/xti-family.html) -I need to avoid the plugin builder as I'm a patent/trademark lawyer and being involved with copyright infringement would be hard to explain! I've had a lot of teething problems with this set up though as play back can be choppy (IPTV streamer connected to router by ethernet, in turn to raspberry pi3 via ethernet running kodi). So not sure what the problem is there. The recording is ok though there are problems with series record and I havent been able to solve fast forward and rewind (I get an error saying stream isn't searchable or something to that effect). I'll check out the HUMAX's and BT box for now though. Thank you!

Any recommendations for a terrestial freeview recorder box? After one for my mother in law. Most seem to ether just subscribe to SkyHD or Virgin TiVo or use catch-up services. At home I've got a Tvonics dtrhd500 which is awesome. Unfortunately Tvonics went into administration in 2012 so that's a non-starter. She has a smart TV so not interested in apps etc. Ironically the TV has a hamstrung recording feature where you can record the channel you are watching only. Great.

I used to run some 28 x 2 (622 x 50) balloon bike tyres on my S-Cross CB. They just fit. When Oxygen replaced the frame I could no longer use the rear tyre as it just caught on the connection point for the rear mud guard by the bottom bracket. Going by that, I'd say 2.25 may be too wide.

Can't download the spec to see the pictures on my tablet but bafang have this pending European patent application for a hub motor with internal transmission: https://tinyurl.com/yaye2p56 Sounds very much like what you're after [mention=4538]Kudoscycles[/mention]

My battery rattles badly in the frame too. I wouldn't recommend padding the battery out against the frame as this may reduce the contact between the battery and the terminals. I've taken to wrapping a velco strap around the battery and frame to hold everything down and that seems to keep it tight.

Before I do anything, I'm tempted to get a watt meter and see what it is doing. Do you still recommend this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-50A-LC...6164a71&pid=100005&rk=1&rkt=6&sd=171870530730 Hopefully, if I'm thinking right, I can simply put XT90 connectors on the ends and plug it in between the battery and the controller.

Thank you, I thought that may be the case. I've got a new set of R002's in so I might just go back to those for the time being and see how it goes. I thought I'd need to do that any way as will be easier to remove both the R002 and the R006 currently piggybacking together.

Following on from this: http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/oxygen-s-cross-cb-intermittent-cut-out.28182/#post-382704 I replaced the battery connection with an XT-90. The original connector had melted all around the -ve terminal (I'll post a photo when I get a chance) and had stuck to the other connector. I don't think the battery connection is rated to cope with this mod! I'd recommend either changing the battery connection at the same time or using a smaller resistor ([uSER=4366]@d8veh[/uSER] recommended an R010 previously) may avoid the issue. Now I've got consistent power I've noticed that if I run the bike on level 6, Power mode, and use the special code to set the controller to totally unrestricted (well, 62mph), the bike will still cut out on long hills, and the section of bike frame housing the controller gets warm. I assume this is battery sag and the BMS cutting in. If I use power level 6, Power mode, but restrict to 21mph I can avoid the cut out but get what I think is battery sag (after 7 miles with plenty of up hill the bike doesn't provide as much "go" up the hills). Finally, if I set the bike to power level 6, Normal mode, I don't get the sag or the cut outs, but it isn't as awesome as it is when in power mode (the motor takes longer to kick in when peddling for example and acceleration is less). I wish there was a way to set up the controller so I could use the +/- keys to quickly change between power/normal/eco. At the moment these scroll through levels 1-6 which seem to simply limit the speed. To change power level I have to press set for two seconds, press set again to select the power changer mode, press +/- to select the desired mode then press set again for 2 seconds to select it. Not particularly convenient when heading up hill, going over speed bumps with an irate commuter behind. Perhaps I should just learn to enjoy taking my time!

Did you ride much before getting the S-Cross? I used to get pins and needles a lot when I first started commuting, but after a while they seem to have stopped. I'd be worried if it had only just started and you'd been commuting a few years. On my S-Cross, the handlebars are not straight, I felt like I was leaning too far forward, so I undid the bolts clamping the bar in place and rotated it so the bar ends were angled a bit up and towards me. All the brake and gear controls needed adjusting (rotating too) after but it was much more comfortable.

I'd try the 400mm the seat tube is long enough to take it and my frame cracking NCX is 350mm long -so a longer one may avoid you needing to use the 5 yr frame warranty.

[mention=6303]Woosh[/mention] -ahh I see what you mean, you're quite right. I've not identified a fuse for the input.

Just to confirm there is a 30Amp blade fuse located in a separate compartment under the charge point, well at least on mine!

Possibly, sorry don't mean to sound patronising but it's just to sanity check. My charger has a label on that says 42v, 2A, centre positive, does yours too? Easiest way to check if dodgy is with a multimeter if you've got one. Other sanity check, is the kettle lead fully plugged into the brick and is the fuse in the plug good?

The battery can be charged on and off the bike. At home I take the battery off as no power in the shed, at work I keep the bike in the office and leave the battery in place. Did you definitely order a 42v charger?

I'll defer to more knowledgeable members on this forum but, if you've got a multimeter check the output of the charger, should be 42V. I've not seen a red light on the battery before. How long has it been on charge for?

[mention=5808]VictoryV[/mention] I hope, like me, you've not lost your curiosity and are still, proverbially, "sticking hairpins into open mains sockets". I can't resist messing with things!

It took about a week for mine to come, but I don't know if that was just luck. I wasn't in a rush for it as had the OEM charger at home, I was just being cheap! Hope yours arrives soon.

The controller on my S-Cross CB states the low voltage protection cut off is 31.5V . I don't think the voltage on the display is totally accurate, I've had it read 41.5V hot off the charger but a multimeter across the terminals gives 41.8V.