ok going to get the one from your link then.

 

Is the avid brake ok? It finishes in 27mn and I could bid on it?

Yes, It looks OK, but don't forget that you can get this one new for £34.

XTECH (by ZOOM) GOLD Mountain bike Hydraulic Disc Brakes !! 160mm rotors. | eBay

so I get the XTECH one + the 160mm IS to mount adaptor then:

Shimano Front IS Mount to Post Mount 160mm Bicycle Bike Disc Brake Adapter | eBay

 

Shall I get the bleeding kit?

You need a 180mm disc and a 180mm adapter; however, some calipers are narrow enough to keep clear of the motor on a 160mm disc, so you need to try it first with 160mm.

but the link you sent me is with 160mm rotor???

 

So it's not sure it's going to fit or not??

I thought you already had a 180mm rotor. You can use the 160mm adapter that comes with that kit, but you need longer bolts and some spacers. A 180mm adapter would be better. As I said before, it might all work with the 160mm stuff.

Thanks Dave. I purchased the disc brake for now without the adaptor. Will see if I need it.

 

Thanks

When it arrives, you can test it very easily and quickly without having to install everything. Lay the disc on the motor after removing the screws. Then put the caliper on the disk in approximately the right position to see if it touches the motor. If it does, you need to install the 180mm disk, so screw it on. When you put the wheel back, you'll need spacers(washers) on the axle to keep the disc at least 3mm clear of the chain-stay (frame) otherwise the caliper won't line up with the disc.

Thanks I'll check that when I'll receive it

 

I noticed my BPM doesn't freewheel that well... only few turns. It gets worse when I tighten the nuts. Is it normal?

 

Also, did any of you tried to replace the quick release with nut?

Have you got your gears on it yet?

Which quick release are you talking about?

No gears will take a couple of weeks to arrive...

 

I'm talking about the front wheel quick release

I used this nuts to replace the front wheel quick release

 

http://www.pitlock.com

 

Expensive but no one can take your wheel off

No gears will take a couple of weeks to arrive...

 

should've bought from Cyclezee, would've had em by now:rolleyes:

Thanks patpatbut. I was wondering where I can find similar thread for front wheel with nut?

 

The one on my front wheel looks very thin and short

 

John, I agree with you and too sad we have so much taxs to pay in the uk

Thanks patpatbut. I was wondering where I can find similar thread for front wheel with nut?

 

The one on my front wheel looks very thin and short

 

Yes it is for 100mm fork but you could ask them if they have a shorter version.

 

Pat

You can get skewers like this, but the Dahon front one is shorter. I'm pretty sure that you can remove the lever end from your skewer by holding the shaft with mole-grips, and unscrewing it. Then you can fit the end off this skewer:

ZIPP Track Front Skewer Stainless Steel Silver for Road Wheels (1 pc)-ZPQR13103 | eBay

System EX Mountain Bike / Road Wheel Security Skewers (Non quick release) | eBay

I used this nuts to replace the front wheel quick release

 

already PITLOCKed ?

 

Expensive but no one can take your wheel off

 

Thanks patpatbut but 43 euro for a thread is a little bit too much for me.

 

i'm going to follow dave and get this (cheap) one:

New XLC Bike Cycle Locking Allen Key Skewer Set For Wheels & Seat Post | eBay

Yes it is for 100mm fork but you could ask them if they have a shorter version.

 

Pat

 

AFAIK Pitlock standard width / diameter for a front wheel - 5mm diameter and 119mm width.

 

Set 04

 

Their other FW axle lengths are as here - front wheel options are 119mm or 130mm :

 

AXLES WITHOUT LOCK

 

I think they can be filed shorter if you really have to - although need to be careful of messing up the thread. The single skewer set is available here from Cycle Surgery (with 5% Quidco cashback) :

 

Pitlock 1 Piece Skewer Set - CycleSurgery

Thanks again for all this help guys (and specifically for D8veh).

 

2 more issues on the bike:

- The chain fells off on the right of the crankset (when I don't have the motor) when I'm on the fastest speed. Does it mean the derailleur is not aligned with the crankset? Shall I bend the derailleur with my hand or do something?

 

- The BPM doesn't freewheel very well. It does few rotations maximum. And if I tighten the nut, it gets worse. Is it normal? I was expecting the BPM to rotate at least as wheel as the normal rear well without motor.

Don't bend the derailleur. There's two adjuster screws which set the end-stops of the derailleur to stop it going too far. One stops it from pulling the chain off the bottom gear, and the other is for top gear. After that, there's another screw on the back, which rotates the whole derailleur backwards to tighten the chain.

 

When a BPM is new, there's a little bit of resistance from the seals and grease, which will improve with miles (or km). I can't see any way that it can change by tightening the wheel-nuts because the wheel-nuts only tighten the axle. The rotating wheel and motor are independent. The only place where anything can touch is on the disk side if you don't have the right spacers there. Are your brakes rubbing?

ok that makes sense for the derailleur. I'm going to check the screws.

 

For the BPM, that was what I've noticed when I tighten very strongly the nut. Then by loosening then, it was finally rolling better. I've checked it didn't have brake rubbing but I can double check.

 

I have also this problem sometime with my brompton front wheel, when I tighten it too much it doesn't turn properly.

 

Not sure if I've missed something

I haven't got my BPM to hand at the moment, so I'm going on memory. On the disc side, there's a bit of a recess to the bearing. the first thing against the bearing must only touch the inner part of the bearing, so you can't have a 12mm washer that has a 24 mm outside diameter, which will fill up the recess and touch both the inner and outer parts of the bearing. Have a look what's under the black nut. To get it off, you hold the axle still with a 10 mm spanner.

Hi cwah,

 

For non electric bike maintenance and reference, you might find one of these a good investment http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Bike-Book-Complete-Maintenance/dp/0857331183

Thanks D8veh, I'm going to check that tonight.

 

John, yeah that seems good. There is also this site that is good resource too:

Bicycle Tutor - Bike Repair Video Tutorials

Getting back to the freewheel action binding, I have something similar on my new Q100 from BMS.

 

I know it's a different motor, but it's similar to what Dave has said.

 

This is a front wheel hub, so one side has the black spacer on the disc and cable entry side.

 

The other side, shown the photos, is where it was binding slightly when spun, unpowered.

 

Like yours, it only then carries on for a second or so, whereas with sealed bearings and no brakes rubbing you'd expect it to on for several seconds, like a conventional, properly adjusted wheel.

 

Loosening the outer nut eases it, like yours.

 

I remember Dave mentioning something like it before on a forum, where there was a superfluous rubber washer under the inner nut, between it and the inner bearing race, causing the washer to rub against the outer bearing race.

 

These two photos show something similar, but I think the problem is a bit more difficult to rectify.

 

One photo shows the wheel square on, with the inner nut obscuring what's inside of it.

 

In the second photo, with it removed, you can see what appears to be a rubber seal on the bearing, (with lettering on it).

 

You can see it's raised slightly above the thin metal collar of the inner bearing race, so it rubs against the inner nut when that's replaced.

 

It seems to be packed with grease, and I'm reluctant to hook it out, because I suppose it would no longer be water resistant ?

 

Maybe I should try a thin spacer washer, the same diameter as the inner bearing race ?

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