Hi cwah,

 

You now have the torque sensored control crank drive conversion option for small folders with the Xofo motor if they can supply a 54T crank.

 

http://pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/xofo-xfz-crank-motor.16833/

Nice one, Cwah. I like the way that you can out-drag the taxis away from the traffic lights. I'm glad I don't have to cycle in London. I guess you get used to it, but from here it looks very risky.

yeah it's quite dangerous to cycle in london. That's why I never pass cars unless they stopped and I leave them the opportunity to start before me.

 

Before with my brompton acceleration was better and it was easier to just pass in front of everyone from traffic light.

 

With the Dahon jetstream I have to be super gentle when I start otherwise I can hear the gear slipping inside the motor. So risk of damage.

 

I hope the motor is going to be able to hold as long as the mac

i still have 2 issues with the bike.

 

The new hydraulic brake keep getting loose and I have to tightened it every couple of days. Is it normal? Would that be the liquid that may leak?

 

And the motor is squeaking. It doesn't freewheel that well. Is it normal?

 

Thanks

What's coming loose, the disc or the caliper? Whatever it is, use Loctite to keep the screws tight.

 

The squeaking is not normal. Take the caliper off to check it's not the brake. If it still doesn't freewheel, there's two posibilities: On the disc side, the first washer must be very narrow so that it only touches the inner part of the bearing like the ones in the 8 O'clock position in this photo or the spacer next to "XF08C"

http://i451.photobucket.com/albums/qq236/d8veh/Misc%20bike%20stuff/Chinese%20stuff/mxusspacer_zpsf56d35e4.jpg

 

On the gears side, you might be clamping the free-wheel if you don't have enough washers on the axle. You normally need two washers inside the free-wheel to avoid this clamping on a seven or 8 speed one.

Thanks D8veh.

 

Here is the screw I need to tighten every couple of days:

I was wondering why I have to do that... and maybe someday I won't be able to do it again because I wouldn't have done it to the max? Maybe some fluid leaking?

 

I only have 1 washer with my freewheel because I don't have that much space... I already forced on it... I suppose there isn't much I can do about that?

Actually, after tightening it still doesn't brake very well.

 

Maybe something to do with my brake pad?

Loosen off the two screws that hold the caliper to the adapter, hold the brake on and re-tighten the screws, then let go of the brake. Spin the wheel to see if it's any better. Finally, watch the disc in the caliper while you pull the brake lever. It shouldn't move sideways.

Thanks D8veh, I checked that and I still have this problem. I wonder if my brake pad are already worned out?

There's a bit of wear - more than what I would have expected, but they're not worn out.

Hmm so there's something wrong about the way I installed the brakes? It worked fine before I don't know why it isn't brake anymore

braking power became ridiculous. it's like I don't have any brake:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5905557/bikes/jetstream/20140224_182621.mp4

 

any idea where the problem may come from?

Take the pads right out and inspect them properly. Maybe there's something we can't see. It looks like that split-pin on the top holds them in. You have to bend it straight to remove it.

Any chance the pads might be contaminated with something lubricant or brake fluid?

Makes sense. How do I know if it's contaminated?

 

I was thinking my brake might be leaking as I have to tighten the brake lever every few days.. I just reached the max the screw can go

I just reached the max the screw can go

 

That throws a different light on it. I thought that you meant that the screw was coming undone. If i understand right, it's the one that sets the reach, which is the distance between the lever and handlebar, so the piston must be working its way in, which might mean that its leaking internally, or you're losing some oil somewhere. Normally, you can see external leaks from the pipe joints etc. You still need to take the pads out to see if there's oil behind them. Do not operate the brake lever when the pads are out or else the pistons will come out and you'll have a lot of trouble.

I just removed the brake pad and I think I managed to make the impossible possible:

 

 

The pads seem dry when I touch them. But it does feel I directly touch the metal... which mean the rubber is completely gone... and that the pads have to be replaced

 

I only have used it for a couple of weeks and it's already gone. I suppose I need to get new ones???

 

where I can get them for cheap as I need to change them every 2 weeks?

Getting worse now... the brake does not seem to have any effect anymore..

 

It seems to be something leaking or I don't know how to tighten the brake...

 

It's really dangerous now because I can only brake with my front brake and it's definitely not braking well at ALL.

 

I think I'm going to order another brake until this one gets repaired. And maybe at the same time raise an ebay dispute as the brake is already dead.

aaah III can't raise a dispute as the purchase has been done more than 45 days ago

I'm going to buy the same disc brake from the seller so at least I'll get one set working until I find a way to fix this one.

 

Cost 40GBP but I hope it worth it and nothing is more expensive than an accident

These look the same:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-Pairs-Shimano-Deore-M596-2012-New-Deore-Uberbike-Disc-Brake-Pads/161178786811?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222003%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3D5074182454380720162%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D20140122125356%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D171198838262&rt=nc

yeah but checking my bike again it looks like a problem with the liquid. I've noticed I loose significant braking power every time I turn my bike upside down for repair...

 

I'm not sure what exactly is the problem but I think I'm going to order a new disc brake set for now..

I just removed the brake pad and I think I managed to make the impossible possible:

 

 

The pads seem dry when I touch them. But it does feel I directly touch the metal... which mean the rubber is completely gone... and that the pads have to be replaced

 

I only have used it for a couple of weeks and it's already gone. I suppose I need to get new ones???

 

where I can get them for cheap as I need to change them every 2 weeks?

 

Even cheap pads will last 1000 miles.

your pads are nor worn evenly, the ridge near the clip hole stops the pads contacting the rotor.

You need to adjust the mounting of your brake in such a way that the rotor makes contact with all of the pad's surface (move the brake body nearer to the centre of the wheel)

yeah but checking my bike again it looks like a problem with the liquid. I've noticed I loose significant braking power every time I turn my bike upside down for repair...

 

I'm not sure what exactly is the problem but I think I'm going to order a new disc brake set for now..

You often get that with hydraulic discs because any air in the main reservoir goes into the tube when you turn it upside-down, but then it works its way back into the reservoir like a sort of self-bleeding.

How can I adjust the ridge in order to have it allow the pads to touch the rotor?

 

When turning back the bike to the right direction it's still not getting better, even after 1 day standing