Drill it with a 30 mm hole saw

yeah thats the plan just i only have them for wood so will get a m8 to do it for me as have the right metal bits.

 

need to get a dremel multi tool and some bits if there any in the sale

It's Aluminium so file it, put some heat sink compound between the two and away to go.

 

The only problem I see is clamping the LED star to the heat sink, unless you can drill the star and self tap it to the heat sink

the 16mm led fits in to the black part then the lens on top of that so will just use some cpu heat sink paste and use the lens to hold it in place, i have some of that white heat sink glue to then attach the alu heat sink to the back of it so then all slides in the rear of the case and will drill some holes in it for the 4 bolts.

 

http://www.diy.com/multi-tools-hobby-tools/dremel-corded-multi-tool-3000/203773_BQ.prd

I doubt that light case and heatsink will be successful in keeping the led cool when running at full power .

but maybe you will prove me wrong hopefully

full power will be at full speed why i have the rf remote so i can turn it up and down when needed.

 

was on the candle power forums and some are using the 6v version and dumping 6a in to there flash lights but what is the point as will last only mins with that much currant.

 

ill be happy if i can get a stable temp around 1800lm light out put wise.

 

anything is better than that shite cree light i have 6600lm my arse

 

 

have 6600lm my arse

 

 

The answer is to cycle facing backwards then ?

i was pissed so did not matter much tbh got king of the mountain tho bridge to bridge 1.4 miles 4.11sec

Mmmmm yes looking at that video 6600 chinese lumens dont figure against 1800 real world lupins

I now have the headlight as reccommended by D8veh and it's quite remarkable - quick delivery too ordered just before Christmas and here it is.

Complete set up and even includes a head strap. Terrific controlable light with very useful functions and road coverage.

Thought I would also give one of these new lights a go. I already had a Bangood light which uses the same battery pack but the light unit is a bit bigger. It threw out an awful lot of light as well, but as my son needed a light I thought I would order the 'new best one', see which I preferred and give my son the other. It is indeed staggering how much light can come out of the new one given its diminutive size, but the obvious difference is that the new one has much better flood. The old one is far better in terms of spot distance but as a cycling light I think the new one will be better although I am yet to put it into practice. I also find the light colour is whiter than the old but this doesnt bother me. For hardcore off road work at high speed I reckon running both would be ideal but for myself I think the new one will be fine. I mount my battery up front on the top tube so there was loads of excess cable which I find irritating. To make a neater job of shortenting it I wanted to solder direct to the board rather than make a cut/splice so I took off the rear cap and carefully took out the driver board. All done now, and much neater when on the bike.

 

Only issue was that the packaging was poor, and my mains charger arrived with the plastic earth pin snapped off. Not a major problem as I can use my old charger but not ideal. I will pop the vendor an email.

 

Cheers d8veh, good find!

http://i1322.photobucket.com/albums/u561/Planemo1/20170107_164301_zpsytf0rzsy.jpg

full power will be at full speed why i have the rf remote so i can turn it up and down when needed.

 

was on the candle power forums and some are using the 6v version and dumping 6a in to there flash lights but what is the point as will last only mins with that much currant.

 

ill be happy if i can get a stable temp around 1800lm light out put wise.

 

anything is better than that shite cree light i have 6600lm my arse

 

 

Soundwave, is your light fitted on the L or R of your handlebars? Why don't you try fixing it in the centre of the handlebars for equal vision. Correct me if I am wrong.

 

MS.

there will be 2 for around 4000lm @16w each light

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJix5DCn_8E

Wear a mask as aluminium dust is not good for you or members of your family.

 

thats what happens if you put 1 cell in it the wrong way round lol.

 

just waiting for the heat sinks now.

http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/riwAAOSwAuNW4opV/s-l1600.jpg

 

and a boost converter for the 4 cell pack.

http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/id4AAOSwnHZYb2Vs/s-l1600.jpg

looks like thats knackered as as a short somewhere pita

has anyone got a light holder that will clamp that light to the bars? my rubber band is not going to cut it.

 

its 250g as is.

has anyone got a light holder that will clamp that light to the bars? my rubber band is not going to cut it.

This is quite solid and the bottom clamp part of this unscrews, if you can find a way of screwing your lamp to it using m4x12 screws maybe.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322252377125?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

looks a bit to small need 3.9cm for the clamp part.

finally got my boost converter only to find that 4 cell box cuts out as soon as i up the currant it gets to about 13v at 700ma and clicks and cuts off so back to square 1 and back to the 18650 cell holder.

 

room temp of the case with the fan going cuts it buy 3c so is helping tho limited to a 6v fan.

 

i got it to 3a 17v and a stable temp that is 36w from 1 led at 65c 32w is 4022lm and the 18650 holder started to melt pmsl.