That does follow the instructions for the pswpower SM-5 plug, indeed.

 

I wonder whether the eight pins of the Yosepower plug are in fact wired in the fashion that I speculate about above (it would make sense from a strictly logical point of view, no?), and whether applying the equivalent bridging strategy would yield the same results?

 

Reading between the lines - you ran without a display, but have gone back to using the display? If so, why? Lack of voltage display? No influencing of the assist level?

 

Reading between the lines - you ran without a display, but have gone back to using the display? If so, why? Lack of voltage display? No influencing of the assist level?

 

I was fixing a bike for someone. I suspected that his bike's non-function was caused by a faulty display. I took the bridging connector from a new KT controller, which was supplied with it. I thought it didn't look right, so I changed it before using it. I was able to show that the controller worked without the display, so we bought a new display, which fixed the bike.

 

Maybe the connector would work with that wire grounded. It wouldn't do any damage if it's protected by a resistor, but I didn't want to take the chance.

Can I ask what freewheel you are using with this kit?

hi all have just ordered rear 350w kit as its a fair price and I already have batteries.

my kudos vita uno mtb 26" wheels has 3 levels of assist 250w 8 fun rear hub, bearings are shot and battery now gives about 15 miles range.

I will try to leave as much as possible of the kudos wiring/controller etc in place try another battery even if I mount it on rear rack.

fit 350rear hub and see if theres much or any difference in grunt as regards hills 250w vs 350 I think the kudos controller is 14amps

what does cst stand for cannot see this in kit description

thank all

Edited January 15, 20188 yr by footpump

CST means it takes splined cassette 8 or 9 gears.

The freewheel version takes a threaded gear set.

 

The bearings in your 8fun hub should be quite easy to replace once the hub is open. The bearings will have a part number written on them and are generic size ones available for a few pounds each on ebay.

My 8fun CST hubs bearings I replaced last Autumn, 1 central large bearing and a non drive side axle bearing and two for the cassette hub for a belt and braces job.

I don't think you will feel much more grunt from the hub using a similar amp rated controller though depending on the rpm of your old hub you may find the Yose a bit faster.

The Yose is about 270/280rpm and should get you up 10% inclines, doing a shunt mod to give a few more amps might help.

At 15a you will see about 505w, with my 20a controller I saw about 705w from the hub.

thanks for info nealh

I have checked what I ordered is freewheel vertion from elife shop (7 speed fitted to kudos) 300-320 rpm.

have just noticed mine is not yosepower although they look identical, my kit has easy fit Juliet connectors on controller , but it seems 17a 36/48v kt on psw site has jst?

Edited January 16, 20188 yr by footpump

A 350w rated motor wouldn't givevany more grunt. Grunt comes mainly from the controller. As already said, bearings are easy to fix. For more grunt, you need a decent battery and higher power (current) controller.

for more grunt at the same voltage and current, you either choose a crank drive motor or a geared motor with higher reduction ratio or one that has larger magnets (thus larger and heavier) or one that is wired for lower noload speed. In my experience, the probability of failure increases with the rotor's speed, the best one is geared motor wired for lower RPM.

hi all received kit today all seems in order.

as pointed out the supplied kt controller is 15amp but with 4 juiliet cables

lcd 3 also juilet.

(I have the kt controller and lcd3 from older ebc kit non Juliet connecters, also 15amps so I can the Juliet seems far neater.

 

as nealh pointed out he did not use the supplied controller etc but used kt 20a and lcd3 already fitted to another bike so only the 350watt rear wheel was fitted I believe.

I can understand more amps more grunt

 

what I cannot see is how if using the supplied kit you can use a kt 17ah or 20a controller as they do not have juiliet connecters.

 

I also do not see how the 350w hub with 9 pins connects to the 20a kt controller.

 

if using the 15amp one supplied shunt mode seems the only way ?

KT 20a controller and the smaller amp one's are connected via a hall sensor cable, it has the std 9 pin Julet for hub connector and the other end has 3 separate phase bullets and the DJ7061 6 wire hall sensor block. Hub motors are supplied with this cable though you can buy them separately.

Great thread!!

 

I just installed the Yose Power kit on my Koga road bike. 17,8 kilos all together. My first pedelec experience. Had to modify the hall sensor on the left pedal side. The Shimano 105 leaves very little room for the magnet assembly.

 

Very pleased with the power, the way it is being delivered and the sound from the hub motor is a thrill.

looks good, nice and light, what size is the dolphin battery (ah)

looks good, nice and light, what size is the dolphin battery (ah)

Ah sorry about that. Thought this model always is 17Ah.

 

Sendt fra min Power_3 med Tapatalk

Is that the cassette motor of the freewheel one? Did you have to make any changes to your gearing? Did you have to do anything to get the wheel-rim in the centre of the frame? Can you tell us the no-load maximum speed?

Did you have to do anything to get the wheel-rim in the centre of the frame? Can you tell us the no-load maximum speed?

 

The black cassette motor version

- is centered in the middle of the frame

- has no noise emission coming from spoke / rim; I am running this in a full-suspension mountain bike on the road, and I am actively exploiting the suspension

- has a no-load max speed of about 42 km/h (according to the display) at about 41.5 Volt

- has speed output from a dedicated motor sensor cable, so even if the motor is not under power will the display show some speed which according to some minimal testing with GPS seems to be about correct.

 

When combined with the included controller (13+- A = just shy of 500 W), the max flat speed shown by the included LCD3 was 36 km/h - low rolling resistance tyres, bending way all over the handlebar.

 

My tests where done using thumb throttle only, no PAS.

anders.d. Said

I just installed the Yose Power kit on my Koga road bike.

Having just installed a cyclotricity kit to my steel framed Raleigh, I'm so impressed that I want to install a Yose Power kit on my Trek road bike.

I noticed your comments regarding the Shimano 105 components, I assume your bike is equipped with a Shimano105/10 speed cassette, if so, did the kit fit without any major changes ?.

That calculates out at 270 rpm, which is a nice speed for a 26" wheel MTB or 700C hybrid/road bike, though a bit fast if you want to run it in legal mode, where 230 rpm would be better.

 

It's unusual not to have to dish a cassette motor wheel, or to get one already dished correctly. That saves a lot of messing about.

I have the 350w freewheel kit and intend to fit to my kudos vita uno mtb by swooping rear hub and electrics.

on the kudos I fitted a shimano hydrolic brake to replace a mech one.

 

but just noticed the brake and gearshift lever is a combined one ,so fitting the supplied brake cut off could be a problem (which I believe I need if fitting a thumb throttle)

 

if I go just pas , would speed be 20+mph and can this be decreased via a lcd3 setting.

 

thanks all

I have the 350w freewheel kit and intend to fit to my kudos vita uno mtb by swooping rear hub and electrics.

on the kudos I fitted a shimano hydrolic brake to replace a mech one.

 

but just noticed the brake and gearshift lever is a combined one ,so fitting the supplied brake cut off could be a problem (which I believe I need if fitting a thumb throttle)

 

if I go just pas , would speed be 20+mph and can this be decreased via a lcd3 setting.

 

thanks all

There's no legal requirement to fit a brake sensor. The only time you need one is when the motor runs on after you stop pedalling. Many modern controllers don't do that, though some still do it. It makes no difference if you have a throttle or not, but it might be a good idea to fit one if you have a full-width throttle because they sometimes break and give permanent half max speed.

50 mile ride out today using 13s/48v, I didn't go any faster ( top speed) as I was mainly looking for the range. Obviously acceleration and cruising is faster initially then the endurance/range factor was in mind so I settled for 18/19 mph. I did see 898w as I did briefly give it full throttle and the same on pas 5, I was seeing about 80 -100w more power in PAS 1 - 3 up to 400w and in PAS 4 approx. 600w.

The big jump is the extra 300w in PAS 5 but tonking along at that power won't give good range at all, mostly used PAS 2 occasionally 3 for the few small inclines I came across.

LCD3 has motor temp sensor, don't know how accurate this is but saw no temp change at all today the temp stayed at a steady 59F with the ambient temp ranging from 32 - 39F.

 

Voltage sag is less then with 36v, @36v I was seeing 1.3v PAS 2 & 1.8v PAS 3, 48V 0.8V pas 2 & 1.3v PAS 3. Batteries used were the same 2 x 36v ones with 12v lion booster packs in series then the pairs in parallel, start voltage 54.6 end was 48v.

Edited January 31, 20188 yr by Nealh

It's not a motor temp sensor. It's inside the display, so just displaying ambient temperature.

It's not a motor temp sensor. It's inside the display, so just displaying ambient temperature.

 

The LCD3 shows two different readings, one ambient air temp and the other according to the Manual a motor temp reading !!!

 

Under display functions it gives #8 Motor power (watts) & motor temp, #9 Enviromental (ambient)temperature.

There's no wires to a temperature sensor and no way to connect one, so how can the display get the temperature? Does it have infra-red vision that can see around corners?

I ordered a Yosepower CST hub kit form Elifeshop on ebay and it arrived on 22nd Dec, 6 days after placing the order. Warehouse location in Germany and total cost £184.

 

In the box:

The CST hub came laced in a 700c rim though there are 3 or 4 rim sizes to choose from, rim is silver and black with silver hub. Spokes silver and 13G, the rim is tightly laced with no loose spokes and all giving a nice ping when plucked.

Other kit components;

KT lcd3 with Yose Y01 decaling P & C parameters menu's as per usual, comes with 575mm extender cable.

 

Controller is KT 15a max with 50v caps so not for use at 13s/48v though 12s should be ok if you keep cell voltage under 41.5v, controller is quite small at 53mm x 84mm x 31mm.

 

PAS sensor is the KTV12L so ideally for sq taper on the non drive side. If the plastic splines were removed it has a 24mm dia so it possibly could be fitted to work on octalink /hollowtech type crank sets if they are long enough.

 

Cable set is 4-1 easy fit with Julet connectors, battery lead is the moulded 2 pin /2 part connector with bullet tails on the battery side. Hub motor cable/connector is long and easily reaches the saddle post.

 

A pair of E brake levers for wired brakes.

 

Triangle controller bag with logo 220mm L x 180mm D and 18mm bottom ringed cable entry.

 

A few tools come with the kit;

Crank puller.

Cassette/freewheel tool.

Chain whip.

Allen key set.

Also a couple of gimmicky led spoke lights.

 

Hub axle is 10 x 12mm and fits straight in replacing any Q or Bafang motor or any other with the same axle, width is std 135mm. I elected to remove my Q128C on my Boardman and the Yose fitted straight in with no gear adjustment needed, I didn't use the supplied KT kit as I already have a dual voltage controller wired up with lcd3 etc.

 

On Boxing day I rode out for a 65 miles down to Brighton/Shoreham and home and in operation the Yose appears to have good power and doesn't feel far off the Q128c , though in theory should be less as one is 350w and the other 500w and seems as quiet in operation.

At 36v 32km/h Yose CST is a about 1 - 1.5mph faster then the Q under my steam ( I topped out at 22.5 mph on the flat ), Yose is quoted as 270/280 rpm on ebay page so not to dissimilar to the Q which is believed to be 260rpm rather then the 201 stated on BMSB as it easily exceeds 15mph @36v,

The Yose max watts I saw in PAS 5 was 705 with my 20a controller, hub is 350w rated with a sticker that fell off !!!! There is a 350 engraving and serial no on the screw on side plate but this is obscured by the cassette

Power wise I saw watts approx. as;

PAS1 85w.

PAS2 155w.

PAS3 270w.

PAS4 360w.

PAS5 705w.

 

Next ride out I plan to try 12s lipo or 13s lion to see how nicely it runs, generally though I don't see a lot of issues and should give the Q128c a good run for it's money. Comparatively the Yose works out cheaper then a Q128c kit as there are no shipping or import fees involved.

Perhaps you could give us the Ebay URL as I couldn't find it on Ebay, only something similar on Amazon. To think I paid around £300 after customs charges etc 3 years ago for a Bafang 350W rear hub kit sent from China.Unusual to find stuff getting cheaper! I just had to pay £24 for a replacement Julet connecting cable but that was my fault for making dodgy connections at the junction box end.The motor and controller are still fine after 3 years. Hope you get the same.