August 25, 20196 yr Author Yes but they also need to be tweaked to stop them rubbing. According to my book of words on cycle maintenance Avid mechanical calipers have one moving piston and and adjustments on both pads. The gap between the disc and the fixed pad needs to be around twice that between the disc and the moving pad. Yes, I have done all that. But consider:- if you need to remove the wheel, it is almost impossible to put it back without slackening and retightening the pads. So much simpler with vee brakes. As to adjusting vee brakes, I do not find any problem to stop them rubbing.
August 25, 20196 yr mine have 4 pistons and a right pita when one of them gets stuck so clean and lube them every 3 months. https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Hope-Silicon-Lube_118402.htm?sku=451711&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google_shopping&gclid=CjwKCAjw44jrBRAHEiwAZ9igKAYKMw8eluYkMnihDeCPxODmSQS175jOcgL30bNysddJVOVaw_A9dRoCzGQQAvD_BwE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ys9bUOJ0qg0:1 Edited August 25, 20196 yr by soundwave
August 25, 20196 yr I use the twin piston Shimano calliper that takes the B01S pad and have same model fitted to four bikes and have yet to have any issues with them.
August 25, 20196 yr But the Young's moduli for steel in compression and expansion are almost the same, and you can't argue with the laws of physics... But in the instance we are talking about the dynamic is different so the rotational disk behaves differently.
August 25, 20196 yr Strange as it may seem I don't find squeaking brakes too much of a problem. If I'm riding along a cycle path country lane etc. and I cycle up behind someone slowly dawdling along I could ring a bell (don't use one though) crawl to a halt and wait till there's room to pass, shout out 'excuse me' or whatever. Instead of all that I just touch my brakes and make them squeak on purpose, the walkers look round move to one side and smile as I ride past. Never had a problem with sharing a cycle path.
August 25, 20196 yr But the Young's moduli for steel in compression and expansion are almost the same, and you can't argue with the laws of physics... :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-)
August 25, 20196 yr Strange as it may seem I don't find squeaking brakes too much of a problem. If I'm riding along a cycle path country lane etc. and I cycle up behind someone slowly dawdling along I could ring a bell (don't use one though) crawl to a halt and wait till there's room to pass, shout out 'excuse me' or whatever. Instead of all that I just touch my brakes and make them squeak on purpose, the walkers look round move to one side and smile as I ride past. Never had a problem with sharing a cycle path. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=onAUrtwA_Ks:148 vroooom
August 25, 20196 yr But in the instance we are talking about the dynamic is different so the rotational disk behaves differently. What do you mean by "the dynamic" ?? Young's modulus is applicable to both stationary and rotating objects, and we're talking about the stresses in the spokes not the disc anyway.
August 25, 20196 yr Strange as it may seem I don't find squeaking brakes too much of a problem. If I'm riding along a cycle path country lane etc. and I cycle up behind someone slowly dawdling along I could ring a bell (don't use one though) crawl to a halt and wait till there's room to pass, shout out 'excuse me' or whatever. Instead of all that I just touch my brakes and make them squeak on purpose, the walkers look round move to one side and smile as I ride past. Never had a problem with sharing a cycle path. Mike is experiencing a different problem, his brakes squeak when going along not when braking: "My problem was that I would set the brakes up just fine, but in no time they would start squeaking, not when braking but just going along."
August 25, 20196 yr Moving on from the rights and wrongs of rotor rotation, lets just have a think about brake noise. I say noise rather then squeeling or juddering or scraping or any manner of unwanted acoustic nuisance. Any friction is an energy transference. When we apply braking force, the energy we wish to remove in order to slow down has to be changed into another form of energy (Newtons Apple tree or something like that). In an ideal world, that energy would become heat, dissipated via the friction material to both the rotor, the calipers and thence to the air. In reality of course there is also acoustic energy. If a frequency oscillation occours, a sound will be generated, if that oscillation is excessive then the noise can be most unwelcome. To conclude, if your brakes sqeel horribly, then your brakes are broken
August 25, 20196 yr my m8 uses wd40 to stop his from squeaking and sprays it in to the caliper on to the brake pads it does work for a bit tho pmsl
August 25, 20196 yr my m8 uses wd40 to stop his from squeaking and sprays it in to the caliper on to the brake pads it does work for a bit tho pmsl But it must reduce the efficiency of the brake(s), as WD40 is a penetrating lubricant..... I use it for many things, but not on brakes.... Andy
August 25, 20196 yr But it must reduce the efficiency of the brake(s), as WD40 is a penetrating lubricant..... I use it for many things, but not on brakes.... Andy he wont listen n look what happens pmsl https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RmceRLE6ERk:239
August 25, 20196 yr Well, having been thoroughly derailed, lets get back to the squeaking. My problem was that I would set the brakes up just fine, but in no time they would start squeaking, not when braking but just going along. I changed the front rotor which cured it, but feeling reluctant to going to all the bother of changing the rear one, I squirted it with citrus degreaser, gently applied the brake and rolled the bike forward to distribute the cleaner onto the pads, then used a strong hose pipe to thoroughly wash the disc and pads etc. Seems to have worked, so I can only surmise that the problem was a build up of brake dust. Andy-Mat need not reply!! Mike, sorry that what should have been such a simple to sort out problem, has been so greatly extended into a white noise debate. I switched off within the space of the first page, so what is said below might have already been stated. Nealh has summed things up pretty well when talking about pad material, and compatibly of rotor material. Here is a short basic guide. https://www.pinkbike.com/news/brake-pad-information-2009.html You appear to have the issue sorted now, and my assumption of the issue would have been either material incompatibility, or pad contamination which is more likely. Cleaning and degreasing pads doesn't really work too well in the long term, and really the best option given the price of them, is to replace with new pads, ensuring that the rotors are spotlessly clean before fitting.
August 25, 20196 yr it will also help if you give the rotors a rub down with some fine sand paper if there new as gives them more bite and will bed in faster and then a rub down with some cleaning fluid. i got some brake pads here that just dont work with my rotors very well they dont make any noise but the feel is like braking with grit till they heat up and then there fine so more for a day at the fod than blasting round the roads and paths ect.
August 25, 20196 yr And another point, of course, is that if your brakes make a noise (only) when they're not being used then a pad is rubbing the disc and this will slow you down.
August 25, 20196 yr What do you mean by "the dynamic" ?? Young's modulus is applicable to both stationary and rotating objects, and we're talking about the stresses in the spokes not the disc anyway. Maybe we should assume manufacturers create disks with arching spokes, and then advise they are fitted pointing towards the direction of travel because they look nicer that way. Looks like mike's solved the problem now luckily so job done.
August 25, 20196 yr i bet not one of you have cleaned and lubed the caliper pistons no point just pushing it back with new pads as it will just get stuck again rub on the rotor and make a noise. every 6 months you should clean and lube the pistons so there moving about the same so to center the pads on the rotor otherwise if one is moving way more than the other it will make 1 pad way closer to the rotor than the other and be a pita to center the pads on the rotor. it might not make a noise but it will wear down the pads way faster. use the brake fluid your bike uses to lube the pistons with a q tip or use the hope stuff just dont pop out the pistons or you will need to bleed the brakes and rebuild the calipers
August 27, 20196 yr Its sad that apparently so few people here are open to a new idea, and condemn it out of hand, without actually trying it.... I believe tat the problem brakes have been made wrongly, spokes wrong made....too thin or wrong material possibly. We need a fe here with the problem, willing to swap the disk around. Plus we could do with a few more qualified engineers here. I am not really surprised though, seen it before! regards to all Andy
August 27, 20196 yr Its sad that apparently so few people here are open to a new idea, and condemn it out of hand, without actually trying it.... I believe tat the problem brakes have been made wrongly, spokes wrong made....too thin or wrong material possibly. We need a fe here with the problem, willing to swap the disk around. Plus we could do with a few more qualified engineers here. I am not really surprised though, seen it before! regards to all Andy i think at the end of the day you get what you pay for as cheap tektro brakes ect will use the cheapest components possible and given the extra weight of a ebike 20kg plus are at there limit and the heat will just make noise and wear pads fast. https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/magura-mt-trail-sl-brake-set/rp-prod186274 i doubt many ppl would even think about spending that much on just the brakes and will only come with high end ebikes that cost 4k plus.
August 27, 20196 yr Temperatures on contemporary disc brakes (those with the tiny rotors bolted to the hub, rather than the out-of-fashion massive disc of yore) do rise and fall dramatically which increases problems no end, on top of lob-sidedly stressing forks and several other nasties which end up increasing mass - once seen as the ultimate sin in respect to bicycle engineering. But these high temperatures do mean better performance in wet conditions, and they're perceived as cool. I've a reasonable amount of experience with motor vehicle braking systems (including on the race track) and improving performance, it's a complex subject but fundamentally finding pads which work quietly and efficiently at high temperatures as well as low is awkward, if not impossible. My suggestion? - find a combination which works for you and stick with it. And don't assume spending more necessarily improves results. On my favourite bikes I'm sticking with the wonderful feel and power of good cantis, for now!
August 28, 20196 yr i think at the end of the day you get what you pay for as cheap tektro brakes ect What type of brakes would people recommend for ebikes then?
August 28, 20196 yr The bike in my avatar uses Shimano Deore hydraulic with 180mm disc on the front. Tektro mech with 150mm on the rear. Did have some problem with rear pads, but solved it by using Clarks resin pads. I live in very hilly west Wales and these brakes do everything I ask of them - no problem. Bear in mind that it's a heavy bike at some 26-28Kg (two batteries etc.). I have another bike with V brakes. This has a Magura HS11 on the front. Seems OK but I've never used it on the steeper stuff I ride, also never in the wet. Now, I would always go for hydraulic on the front.
August 28, 20196 yr I have another bike with V brakes. This has a Magura HS11 on the front. Seems OK but I've never used it on the steeper stuff I ride, also never in the wet. Now, I would always go for hydraulic on the front. HS11 are hydraulic (and not V). Do you mean you have another bike with rim brakes, and you would go for discs on the front?
Join the conversation
You are posting as a guest. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.