I urge you to reconsider fitting brake cut offs, the delay between stopping pedaling and the motor/controller reacting and cutting off power to the motor. Will significantly increase your stopping distance.

The 350w controller may let you change how the motor/controller responds to pas sensor input stopping?? the 250w kits do not, making brake cut off sensors a necessary imho.

 

I found that having a brake cut off when a throttle is fitted is an absolute necessity. My throttle happened to stick partially open - fortunately while I was walking the bike and just gave it a small "nudge". A quick grab of the brake enabled me to stop the motor, then switch the display off. I was able to disconnect the throttle to complete the jouney. Yose sent me a replacement throttle under warranty after I sent them a video with the throttle connected (bike on a stand). The Yose 350w controller doesn't allow any adjustment of the PAS motor cut-off, but mine are pretty instantaneous.

Incidentally, for those who have cable brakes and combined brake lever/shifters here is a hack to fit a magnetic cut-out to the rear brake cable on the frame:-

 

I don't think it would work on a steel frame though.

 

Whatever type you use, you only really need one on the rear brake. As others have said, very useful to cut the motor when slowing down and changing gear at the same time.

I urge you to reconsider fitting brake cut offs, the delay between stopping pedaling and the motor/controller reacting and cutting off power to the motor. Will significantly increase your stopping distance.

 

Your brakes will wear significantly faster, they will anyway but braking against the motor all day every day will wear even faster.

 

And you will be constantly dumping unwanted heat into the motor which may have an impact on its lifespan.

 

your ability to perform an emergency stop will be limited.

 

the 350w controller may let you change how the motor/controller responds to pas sensor input stopping?? the 250w kits do not, making brake cut off sensors necessary imho.

 

That's valuable information, Lark.

 

I was proactive, and ordered my hydraulic brake sensors way before I purchased my kit. I got it from Yose's eBay outlet - since it said it came from China with up to a 30 day delivery

 

But last week I spent a while on Youtube trying to learn the best way to fit it, and I noticed it's a bit of a constant pain for people.

 

You need special glue for the pads and the magnets (apparently the innate adhesive on the pads is not enough, nor is the magnets' magnetism enough to stay put on the brake levers), and it involves a lot of repairing every now and then.

 

I'll look up a few tutorials again, and try to fit it since I've got it anyway.

 

If it's safer, especially in case of emergency, and it will save my rotors a bit, then it's probably worth it.

 

But, I reiterate I don't plan on riding that fast, probably 19mph tops, but mostly 15-17mph.

 

-------------

 

And [mention=38589]Cadence[/mention] that sounds terrifying. I wonder if that also happens to half-twist throttles.

 

As I said earlier I'm considering removing my throttle altogether as I enjoyed the PAS more based on my first ride this morning.

 

I'd probably keep it in my bike bag along with my tools in case I need it if my chain breaks or something.

Edited February 10, 20242 yr by throwawaychap

yeah when gluing magnets in place near ferrous metals, clip them down until the glue has cured

 

JBWELD do quality epoxy products, and they do a steel putty ?steel stick? you can 'prototype and test magnet positions with blutac and fix with the epoxy putty, making it straight forward.. its about a fiver iirc

 

sugru is a soft silicone mold-able putty available in a few colours, not as strong as epoxy but it just needs to hold a lil magnet. and perhaps the softer silicone product would absorb shocks? a bitb more expensive but if colour matching is a big deal...

 

with 2 x fitted if one magnet falls off or gets knocked off the 2nd is there as a backup and there is no pressure to fix there and then.

 

A controller/display off button and or a battery off switch are on most if not all ebikes but when panic or shock sets in muscle memory gripping brake levers needs no thought..

I will certainly be experimenting with it this week.

 

These are the two videos I found:

 

 

 

They both use JB Weld epoxy / bonder, but I wonder if the Gorilla Epoxy works just as well since I can source it locally - whereas the JB Weld I'd have to get from Amazon or Ebay.

 

The guy users a rubber washer on the magnet, I haven't got one, but I was thinking of cutting a piece of old inner tube and super gluing it to the magnet and then gluing that to the brake lever - for adhesiveness and shock absorption. Not sure if it will work.

 

I'll probably try fitting one sensor, and then monitor how it fares for a month of so. If it's solid and works well, I'll fit the other one.

goto any car spares or h/w shop and ask for 'steel' or metal putty.. branding is not crucial, its not the strength but the putty like quality allowing you to mold it to a shape thats attractive for this use case.

 

rubber is a tricky substance to glue i would avoid, drilling a thru hole where u want to glue will create an anchor point too

 

While ive not glued this particular job.. a roll of metal putty was a staple in my m/cycle carry and has fixed a situation inc a leaky petrol tank on the go many times.

 

give any epoxy a good 24 hrs to cure before exposing to ridding the bike for the best results.

Jeeez! Keep it simple. I used a teeny tiny bit of double sided tape - hasn't fallen off yet.

goto any car spares or h/w shop and ask for 'steel' or metal putty.. branding is not crucial, its not the strength but the putty like quality allowing you to mold it to a shape thats attractive for this use case.

 

rubber is a tricky substance to glue i would avoid, drilling a thru hole where u want to glue will create an anchor point too

 

While ive not glued this particular job.. a roll of metal putty was a staple in my m/cycle carry and has fixed a situation inc a leaky petrol tank on the go many times.

 

give any epoxy a good 24 hrs to cure before exposing to ridding the bike for the best results.

I wound up getting JB-Weld Original epoxy.

 

Either today or tomorrow I'll have a go at fitting it.

 

I'll probably plug the connector in and use electrical tape to see if I can get the sensor to work and have an idea of where I should be placing the sensor and the magnet first.

 

 

-----------------------------------------------------------

Slightly off-topic for me since I have a different brand battery but since this is a Yose Power / YosePower related thread.

 

This Hungarian chap - who going by his channel knows a little bit about batteries - fitted a Yose Kit and at minute 11 he opened his 36v13ah Yose battery to see what brand cells are inside:

 

 

So if you have a Yose Kit, or planning to get one that comes with a battery, it might be useful. Yose don't disclose the cell brand nor the BMS used in their batteries.

Jeeez! Keep it simple. I used a teeny tiny bit of double sided tape - hasn't fallen off yet.

Interesting!

 

Did you use the double sided tape for the magnet only or both the magnet and the sensor?

 

Every guide I've found online and on Youtube people used epoxy. I've got Gorilla double-sided tape but I figured it wouldn't last, especially if/or when riding in the rain.

 

Since I've got the epoxy now, I'll use it though.

I applied sensors designed for hydraulic brake to a combined brake, gear lever.

As a quick test measure I used electrical tape to secure the magnet so I could easily move it to get it set right. That's worked fine for just under 6 years, so I've left it that way.

 

The sensor was fitted using the sticky face provided. That worked until a month or so ago when somebody carelessly caught the cable when they parked their bike against ours; the sticky would hardly hold after that. It's now restuck with double sided stick patch which appears to be fine.

 

If it had been stuck with strong glue the cable would probably have been broken, which would have been much more inconvenient.

I tried rehearsing the installation of my brake sensors just now, using double sided tape and electrical tape to temporarily fit the sensor and the magnet in place, and it seems I have a faulty pair of sensors.

 

Here's why I think that is so:

 

When I switch the bike/display on I get:

 

1 - with the magnet initially literally attached to the sensor itself, I get no error which is fine. Now when I removed the magnet to well over a foot away from the sensor, I still got no error - which shouldn't be the case.

 

2 - with the magnet initially far enough (over the supposed 5mm limit) from the sensor, I get 'error 25' (meaning the motor is cut off), and when I attach the magnet to the sensor, the error goes away as it should.

 

2.1 - the problem is; when I then remove the magnet from the sensor, to well over one foot away even, nothing happens, it doesn't trigger the 'error 25' as it should.

 

 

I have tested it with one sensor, and then with both sensors, with the same results.

 

Tricky stuff.

If you have a three wire/pin sensor, the magnet needs to be oriented the correct way. Yose are three wire ones. They work the same as reed switch ones except that the orientation of the magnet affects which direction they work.

 

Most sensors are very simple. They use reed switches that switches when a magnet comes close. The switch should be off with the brake resting in its home position. There are two types of brake switches: The switch can be normally on with no magnet present, but will go off with the magnet close by in its resting position, then it goes on when you operate the brake to move the magnet away; or the switch can be normally off, and goes on when the magnet comes to it during brake operation.

 

You can test with a meter which way yours works. Just set the meter to show resistance or continuity on the two wires/pins with no magnet present. The switch will be either on or off, then bring the magnet to it to see it switch the other way.

 

The controller gives an error code when you switch it on and it detects that the brake switch is already on. The brake switch must be off during startup and on when you operate the brake. Therefore, if you have everything set correctly and you hold the brake on during startup, you should get an error code.

 

One final point for 3-wire hall sensor brake switches. The system needs a pull-up resistor to hold the signal wire at 5v when the switch is off. The resistor is in the controller. If you test externally without connecting to the controller, the hall switch might not switch correctly.

Edited February 14, 20242 yr by saneagle

Thank you Saneagle for the thorough explanation.

 

I've read it once, but shall be reading it a few more times to grasp it a bit better.

 

I'm little shocked that the 3-pin sensors are trickier, I assume it'd be plug-and-play.

 

-----

I just remembered Yose have a dedicated 'instructions' page on their site. With downloadeable user manuals in PDF format.

 

https://www.yosepower.co.uk/pages/instructions

 

And it turns out, there's one for their hydraulic brake sensors as well.

 

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0658/1669/0908/files/Hydraulic_Sensor_installation_manual.pdf?v=1663921708

 

I haven't looked at it yet, but if someone finds this thread in the future looking for the same information, I hope it should be helpful.

 

Edit:

 

Having now read it, I see it didn't contain any relevant info about magnets needing correct orientation.

 

The only thing it stipulates is the distance which should be from 2-5mm.

Edited February 14, 20242 yr by throwawaychap

Thank you Saneagle for the thorough explanation.

 

I've read it once, but shall be reading it a few more times to grasp it a bit better.

 

I'm little shocked that the 3-pin sensors are trickier, I assume it'd be plug-and-play.

 

-----

I just remembered Yose have a dedicated 'instructions' page on their site. With downloadeable user manuals in PDF format.

 

https://www.yosepower.co.uk/pages/instructions

 

And it turns out, there's one for their hydraulic brake sensors as well.

 

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0658/1669/0908/files/Hydraulic_Sensor_installation_manual.pdf?v=1663921708

 

I haven't looked at it yet, but if someone finds this thread in the future looking for the same information, I hope it should be helpful.

 

Edit:

 

Having now read it, I see it didn't contain any relevant info about magnets needing correct orientation.

 

The only thing it stipulates is the distance which should be from 2-5mm.

It is plug and play, but you need to understand the rules of the game before you start playing, like football, you can't win if you keep kicking the ball in the wrong goal.

 

I agree, that instruction is pretty useless. maybe their Youtube is better, but I wouldn't hold out too much hope.

I've had another go and failed again.

 

The distance parameter seems to be 2-3mm.

 

My brake is tricky to fit the sensor/pad.

 

But I placed the sensor, and the magnet to the lever.

 

While pressing the lever I turned the display on. I got error 25, I let go of the lever, the error went away.

 

But here's the issue, when I press the lever again, no error occurs. Even if I remove the magnet from my brake lever and place it elsewhere, the sensor does not trigger the error that would in theory cut the motor off.

 

I've flipped the magnet to the other side, and even placed it on its side; same outcome.

Make sure you understand the logic I explained above. If you want to wait a couple of weeks, I ordered some £20 hydraulic brakes that have switches in them. As soon as they come, I'll test them.

But here's the issue, when I press the lever again, no error occurs. Even if I remove the magnet from my brake lever and place it elsewhere, the sensor does not trigger the error that would in theory cut the motor off.

The 25 error is from a startup self-check that everything is working. Once it has seen the 'lever not pressed' state it is happy and won't give the error any more whether the lever is or isn't pressed. But with the lever pressed it should cut off the motor without comment on the display.

I've had another go and failed again.

 

The distance parameter seems to be 2-3mm.

 

My brake is tricky to fit the sensor/pad.

 

But I placed the sensor, and the magnet to the lever.

 

While pressing the lever I turned the display on. I got error 25, I let go of the lever, the error went away.

 

But here's the issue, when I press the lever again, no error occurs. Even if I remove the magnet from my brake lever and place it elsewhere, the sensor does not trigger the error that would in theory cut the motor off.

 

I've flipped the magnet to the other side, and even placed it on its side; same outcome.

 

I have found that if I press the brake lever and switch on the display, I get Error 25 - as you do. It is then necessary to switch the display off and on again without holding the brake lever. The brake sensor then works correctly without the Error 25 coming up on the display.

I don't know why you are then testing it by moving the magnet further away (without switching the display off first?). Perhaps you are over thinking it.

Holding the brake lever while switching the display on is an indication that the sensor is actually working. Just let go of the lever and switch the display off and on again. You should get no error code. Lift the back wheel. Start the motor with pedals or throttle and apply the brake. The motor should cut out. Simples!

Make sure you understand the logic I explained above. If you want to wait a couple of weeks, I ordered some £20 hydraulic brakes that have switches in them. As soon as they come, I'll test them.

I haven't grasped it fully but will give it another read in a bit. After trying fitting the thing twice my brain needs a breather lol.

 

That's interesting. I'd heard Tektro did hydraulic brake levers with sensors in them for ebikes, but they're really expensive.

 

I also never installed or bled hydraulic brakes, so it's another learning curve. Like I said, I hadn't ridden a bike in almost 2 decades. Even the maintenance stuff I'm having to re-learn little by little.

 

The 25 error is from a startup self-check that everything is working. Once it has seen the 'lever not pressed' state it is happy and won't give the error any more whether the lever is or isn't pressed. But with the lever pressed it should cut off the motor without comment on the display.

 

So there's where I may have been going wrong.

 

Every video I watched of people fitting these sensors, their bikes always had some sort of symbol or error code for when levers were pressed.

 

 

I admittedly have not tried actually testing the motor (via throttle) and pressing the lever to see if it works or not since I was trying to work out the positioning of my sensor pad and magnets by using tapes.

I have found that if I press the brake lever and switch on the display, I get Error 25 - as you do. It is then necessary to switch the display off and on again without holding the brake lever. The brake sensor then works correctly without the Error 25 coming up on the display.

I don't know why you are then testing it by moving the magnet further away (without switching the display off first?). Perhaps you are over thinking it.

Holding the brake lever while switching the display on is an indication that the sensor is actually working. Just let go of the lever and switch the display off and on again. You should get no error code. Lift the back wheel. Start the motor with pedals or throttle and apply the brake. The motor should cut out. Simples!

 

It seems silly now but I assumed I had to get the 'error 25' code every time I pressed the brake lever.

 

I thought some bikes - or display brands - had a dedicated special brake engaged symbol on the display. So I thought the c500/Yose display had this 'error 25' instead of a dedicated symbol.

 

Basically I based it on Youtube videos, but none were Yose Power systems with c500 displays.

It seems silly now but I assumed I had to get the 'error 25' code every time I pressed the brake lever.

 

I thought some bikes - or display brands - had a dedicated special brake engaged symbol on the display. So I thought the c500/Yose display had this 'error 25' instead of a dedicated symbol.

 

Basically I based it on Youtube videos, but none were Yose Power systems with c500 displays.

 

Not silly at all. We all started out with zero knowledge and I'm pleased to "put a bit back" having gained lots of advice through this excellent forum.

I found this out by chance and the Yose instructions (paper or online) leave a lot to be desired - not just regarding the brake sensors.

Some other brand displays do have a little "brake" symbol when the brake is applied. Some also have a "light" symbol when the front/rear lights are on (if you have them), but I don't think Yose C500 displays do.

Anything else, just ask away. If I don't know, someone else will!

Not silly at all. We all started out with zero knowledge and I'm pleased to "put a bit back" having gained lots of advice through this excellent forum.

I found this out by chance and the Yose instructions (paper or online) leave a lot to be desired - not just regarding the brake sensors.

Some other brand displays do have a little "brake" symbol when the brake is applied. Some also have a "light" symbol when the front/rear lights are on (if you have them), but I don't think Yose C500 displays do.

Anything else, just ask away. If I don't know, someone else will!

Believe you me [mention=38589]Cadence[/mention], you have given a lot back. Especially regarding Yose kits for people like me. Thank you.

 

I'll try again tomorrow morning, given what little bit more I now know, it should work - hopefully.

It seems silly now but I assumed I had to get the 'error 25' code every time I pressed the brake lever.

As cadence says, not silly. When we first got ours (Woosh XF07 kit) I was very confused because it seemed completely random whether or not the '25' came up when I switched on. plus I'd assumed that it was indicating the km speed setting.

 

Ours is a little different than cadence's; if you power up with the brake lever you get the 25, but it goes away when you release the lever without need to repower.

Just another quick update.

 

I installed one side Saturday, I waited a full 24 hours to then epoxy the magnet.

 

My brake lever (Shimano MT200) was awkward to find a suitable place to epoxy the sensor to but I got there in the end.

 

 

Testing it and upon finding it worked well, I got inspired and went to fit the other one, which I surprisingly found harder because the sensor required the magnet to be much closer to work properly. I think there's a good 3mm difference from one sensor to another as to what distance to place the magnet on the lever.

 

Bumps on the road but I got there in the end. Both are fully working as of now.

 

Thank you Larky, now I have something that will save my rotors, spare my motor from unnecessary heat, brake more efficiently - especially on emergencies.

 

I wasn't planning to fit my sensors but now that I did, it's well worth it. You can feel the difference with the motor cut offs.

There is no gain in fitting two sensors, one would have sufficed.

That makes sense but I find myself alternating the use of either side of my brakes, so I guess it's been worth the trouble to me.

 

--

 

Another update from me:

 

I've been really impressed with the range I get from my Greenlance (20ah 36v) battery so far. I ride on level 5 and pedalling. I can ride 40 miles and still have either one or two bars to spare (voltage down to 35.9 - I still don't know the cut off point, I think it's either 32v or 30v for this battery)

 

Something makes me think I can reach 50 or so miles that way.

 

The battery charger looks safe and good quality as well.

 

And the Yose kit has been really good so far, granted I've only used it for a month of so. But it's all good.

 

I'm in my 30s and riding a bike for the first time since my early teens has been really fun. And I'm saving ~£25 a week on train fares on top of that.

 

 

On a side note, I did end up getting one of those cheap waterproof battery covers from Ebay, and it served me rather well last week. I unexpectedly rode under heavy rain for about 30 minutes and it kept my battery fully dry.

 

Still I don't fancy riding under rainy conditions again, it's not ideal for the kit, the battery and the bike.

 

I had to clean the chain, cassette, derailleur, dry as best as I could and then lubricate it. I used the lubricant version of GT85 that has PTFE or teflon in it, but I did also buy a more specific chain lube - but the bike has been riding really smooth so I haven't bothered with it yet.

 

 

In a few words: I've had the kit for about a month, all good. Happy days.