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Why Ride Rad?

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Hi Guerney - I'll take a photo and post it tomorrow (19th)

Ride Rad

 

Cheers, I look forward to seeing a photo of your motor's label and other markings.

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If he is lucky enough to have a G062 instead of a G060 then he has a very torquey motor and it will be a superb hill climber.

Definately not for high power then , 35e is only a so so cell.

 

Does this mean if the OP is drawing very high continuous current from that battery, he won't be riding rad for much longer? A bike aflame looks pretty radical. Ride red morelike.

Edited by guerney

Does this mean if the OP is drawing very high continuous current from that battery, he won't be riding rad for much longer? A bike aflame looks pretty radical. Ride red morelike.

 

No, those cells aren’t marvellous by today’s standards but they have a maximum discharge current of 8 amps, each, so at 4P or 5P it will cope, but won’t give much range flat out from a 14AH battery.

30Q cells are much better and only cost a few pennies more.
Now look up the comparison between maximum discharge current of each type of cell.

Now look up the comparison between maximum discharge current of each type of cell.

 

"Max. continuous current: 15A "

 

https://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Samsung%20INR18650-30Q%203000mAh%20%28Pink%29%20UK.html

 

"Maximum discharge current: 13A "

 

https://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Samsung%20INR18650-35E%203500mAh%20%28Pink%29%20UK.html

 

 

How is the maximum continuous discharge current of this Rad battery containing Samsung 35E cells calculated?

 

https://radpowerbikes.eu/products/standard-battery-pack

The battery is 14ah std so only 4p , typically one should draw approx. 60% for cell longevity. 20a at 4p would be about the ideal draw for power , one can see it starting to sag more at 7a.

 

30Q's have a chequered past of self discharging.

Although the 30Q has a max 20a discharge it is not a continuous discharge, 15a is it's continuous discharge.

One can see it is a bit saggy at 15a but the discharge curve is linear.

It isn't an out and out power cell but has a lot of stored energy , at 20a one see it down to only 1500mah @3.3v.

Edited by Nealh

The battery is 14ah std so only 4p , typically one should draw approx. 60% for cell longevity. 20a would be about the ideal draw for power.

 

If the OP's level 3 draws more than 48V X 20A = 960W, his battery will provide longer service life, if he rides rad at level 2? ie Roaming a bit less rad.

 

Probably not a good idea to use the throttle for long then, if the OP has one.

 

Never go beyond Pas level 3 - ever

Edited by guerney

He needs to enquire about all this stuff on the Rad owners forum. They have been running these upgrades for years, so should be able to advise him of what works and what doesn’t.

If the op is happy with his bike thats about all anyone needs to care about. and as to whether the motor is legal or not I dont think matters either, as long as he isnt bombing along the road at 40mph, he's not going to attract any attention.

 

Just another bloke pottering along.

 

Not my cup of tea, and the weight is pretty extreme, but such is the nature of it.

I can't imagine cycling a 36kg bike with no gears and a legal 250 watt motor up a hill. The later Rad-Runner versions at least had gears (and suspension IIRC).

 

81lbs = 36.741kg... that's before the 3kg Kryptonite bike lock, drinks holder, suspension seatpost, mudguards, GoPro mount and camera, phone holder, and Zefal Doockack II end bar mirror. About 40kg? Whenever I attempt weighing my bike, I leave all that sort of stuff on.

Edited by guerney

81lbs = 36.741kg... that's before the 3kg Kryptonite bike lock, drinks holder, suspension seatpost, mudguards, GoPro mount and camera, phone holder, and Zefal Doockack II end bar mirror. About 40kg? Whenever I attempt weighing my bike, I leave all that sort of stuff on.

I'm still not seeing any attraction to Riding Rad either. My 20" Fiido is less than half the weight (17.5kg stripped, 19kg with rack and all the bits and bobs attached), and half the price. If it were made of pig-iron, it'd likely still weigh less.

I'm still not seeing any attraction to Riding Rad either. My 20" Fiido is less than half the weight (17.5kg stripped, 19kg with rack and all the bits and bobs attached), and half the price. If it were made of pig-iron, it'd likely still weigh less.

Horses for courses. It's the same sort of thing as an Eskuta. It takes you from one place to another with minimal effort. It's not meant to be a bicycle.

About 40kg?

 

48V x 35A = 1700W. 40kg shouldn't be a problem while there is a juice in battery.

It is not a bike, it is a batpod.

48V x 35A = 1700W. 40kg shouldn't be a problem while there is a juice in battery.

It is not a bike, it is a batpod.

Don't forget that's power from the battery, not from the wheel. The maximum theoretical from the wheel is about 1200w, and you'd only get that in niche circumstances, assuming the max speed is capped at the legal maximum.

Something like an E-moped weighs about 70kg.

 

In comparison, my old 1980s Honda CB125 weighed i believe about 120kg

 

So 40kg is not that bad really. Although it is for want of a better description a bicycle, throttle or no.

Something like an E-moped weighs about 70kg.

 

In comparison, my old 1980s Honda CB125 weighed i believe about 120kg

 

So 40kg is not that bad really. Although it is for want of a better description a bicycle, throttle or no.

Closer to the Honda P50 - the one they gave away free with their cars. You had to help it up hills with pedalling, pedal it to start and do a lot of pedalling when it didn't work, which was not fun.

 

Perfect moped for electric conversion:

https://www.mathewsons.co.uk/auction/lot/272-1967-honda-p50/?lot=13574&sd=1

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