The 806 seems expensive for a hub motored bike. Personally, I wouldn't buy one. For this price I could convert at least two old folders, and with 19.2Ah/691Wh batteries. My conversion cost £909, and £809 was for the BBS01B kid-drive kit with 19.2Ah battery - it's a very capable conversion, much more capable of dragging stuff uphill than the 806. BBS01B mid drives don't suffer from rising damp like TSDZ2s.

 

 

[ATTACH type=full" alt="58236]58236[/ATTACH]

 

 

This bike has the same frame as mine:

 

https://www.gumtree.com/p/bicycles/high-quality-dahon-trekking-folding-bike-lightweight-quality-folder-complete-with-fitted-extras/1459001240

 

 

 

The only difficult part was removing the BB. Stuck because of galvanic corrosion, I think. You'll also need a programming cable.

I hear you, but struggling to find a suitable folder with disc brakes. I am coming to terms with the idea of a hub motor. Buying pre-build wasn’t my 1st choice…I don’t need a massive battery as will still have the TSDZ2 mountain bike crapcycle for long rides - these are always pleasure / exercise so reliability is less important.

I hear you, but struggling to find a suitable folder with disc brakes. I am coming to terms with the idea of a hub motor. Buying pre-build wasn’t my 1st choice…I don’t need a massive battery as will still have the TSDZ2 mountain bike crapcycle for long rides - these are always pleasure / exercise so reliability is less important.

 

Although I'm happy with the effectiveness of my v-brakes, I've been looking into converting the rear wheel to disc brake (front conversion doesn't seem a sensible idea, so far) to prevent rim wear. Good quality 20" rims wide enough for 1.75" Marathon Plus tyres are difficult to source, otherwise I really wouldn't be investigating the possibility of considering disc brake conversion, because when wheels are true and pads are well adjusted and not too worn, for me at least v-brakes work well.

Edited June 17, 20241 yr by guerney

.....when wheels are true and pads are well adjusted and not too worn, for me at least v-brakes work well.

 

Yes that is true but putting aside rim wear and less braking performance for a moment, by your own account for the best performance from V brakes, the wheel must be true, the pads have to be kept in adjustment and the pads cannot be worn. None of this applies to hydraulic disk brakes (but obviously the pads have to be replaced when they're worn out).

 

I have just been out on my bike after fitting a rear Shimano MT200 hydraulic disk brake. I fitted a front one last summer and since then I've been very unimpressed with my rear mechanical disk brake.

 

I am a total convert to hydraulics now (thanks to bloody saneagle) and I can't ever see me going back to V brakes or mechanical disks.

 

One tiny problem though, my hydraulic hose is about 200mm too long, so I'm going to have to get on Youtube and learn how to shorten it. Onwards and upwards.

Yes that is true but putting aside rim wear and less braking performance for a moment, by your own account for the best performance from V brakes, the wheel must be true, the pads have to be kept in adjustment and the pads cannot be worn. None of this applies to hydraulic disk brakes (but obviously the pads have to be replaced when they're worn out).

 

I have just been out on my bike after fitting a rear Shimano MT200 hydraulic disk brake. I fitted a front one last summer and since then I've been very unimpressed with my rear mechanical disk brake.

 

I am a total convert to hydraulics now (thanks to bloody saneagle) and I can't ever see me going back to V brakes or mechanical disks.

 

One tiny problem though, my hydraulic hose is about 200mm too long, so I'm going to have to get on Youtube and learn how to shorten it. Onwards and upwards.

 

If disc brakes are so good compared to v-brakes, I can well understand v-brakes being a dealbreaker. After resuming cycling in 2019, having given it up in the late 1980s, I haven't ridden a bicycle with disc brakes - I found a bike with a front cable disc brake dumped in the woods a few months ago, the thing wasn't rideable but the front disc did seem to stop the bike pretty effectively when I tried it while pushing it along home. If I do decide to go ahead attempting a rear disc brake conversion, if this front brake fits onto the rear disc brake adapter, and it works ok, I'll upgrade to hydraulic. It'll be a pain, because of course I'd have to replace the rear hub with one for disc brake first, and build a rear wheel. A front disc brake conversion doesn't currently seem viable.

 

 

If nothing else, I get through a small fortune in brake pads and need to adjust for wear every few outings. My hill is steep, single track, covered in loose gravel, high hedges and sharp bends. It’s the sort of hill you descend at 10mph in case you meet an idiot in a car coming up that refuses to stop. And I’ve met a few

I have just been out on my bike after fitting a rear Shimano MT200 hydraulic disk brake. I fitted a front one last summer and since then I've been very unimpressed with my rear mechanical disk brake.

 

I am a total convert to hydraulics now (thanks to bloody saneagle) and I can't ever see me going back to V brakes or mechanical disks.

 

Exactly the same - I fitted the MT200 at the front - no maintenance - just as good as the day I got it, I'm getting unimpressed with my rear mechanical disc brake, which I swear has got worse over 2000 miles use and I have a MT200 ready to fit (total convert to hydraulic brakes - bloody [mention=3847]saneagle[/mention] is to blame too ! )

If disc brakes are so good compared to v-brakes, I can well understand v-brakes being a dealbreaker. After resuming cycling in 2019, having given it up in the late 1980s, I haven't ridden a bicycle with disc brakes - I found a bike with a front cable disc brake dumped in the woods a few months ago, the thing wasn't rideable but the front disc did seem to stop the bike pretty effectively when I tried it while pushing it along home. If I do decide to go ahead attempting a rear disc brake conversion, if this front brake fits onto the rear disc brake adapter, and it works ok, I'll upgrade to hydraulic. It'll be a pain, because of course I'd have to replace the rear hub with one for disc brake first, and build a rear wheel. A front disc brake conversion doesn't currently seem viable.

 

 

[ATTACH type=full" alt="58239]58239[/ATTACH]

Don't waste your time with cable disc brakes. Anybody that has them should immediately swap them for hydraulics. The whole concept of the way cable disc brakes work is flawed and can be dangerous if not given ridiculous amounts of maintenance.

Don't waste your time with cable disc brakes. Anybody that has them should immediately swap them for hydraulics. The whole concept of the way cable disc brakes work is flawed and can be dangerous if not given ridiculous amounts of maintenance.

 

What a load of shite… instead of just stating your opinion as fact as usual, can you back this up with some reasoning and evidence?

 

There are millions of bikes with cable disk brakes and all the major brake manufacturers make them. Are you saying they’re negligent and the riders are going to suffer death unless they spend an hour a week maintaining their brakes?

 

…or actually are they just fine, and no better/worse than any other brakes.

 

Here is a balanced view, presented with reasoning and explanation rather than just stated as fact….

https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/buyers-guides/mechanical-disc-brakes

What a load of shite… instead of just stating your opinion as fact as usual, can you back this up with some reasoning and evidence?

 

There are millions of bikes with cable disk brakes and all the major brake manufacturers make them. Are you saying they’re negligent and the riders are going to suffer death unless they spend an hour a week maintaining their brakes?

 

…or actually are they just fine, and no better/worse than any other brakes.

 

Here is a balanced view, presented with reasoning and explanation rather than just stated as fact….

https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/buyers-guides/mechanical-disc-brakes

 

Nowhere in that article does it mention E-bikes, which weigh more and have higher average speeds. Consider that mass going fast downhill.

 

Let me ask you a question, how would you fancy cable operated brakes on your car or motorbike?

 

Anyway, enjoy getting torn a new one by saneagle

https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/buyers-guides/mechanical-disc-brakes

 

I bought a pair of cheapo Shimano MT200s off AliExpress for £35 including delivery (they even swapped them round to Right Front. Left Rear before they sent them for me)

 

My Facebook marketplace £50 15 year old Carrera Vulcan donor bike (that didn't look if it had been used) had cable disk brakes. I swapped the front brake to the hydraulic one about a year ago but left the mechanical rear brake (at that point I could lock the rear wheel riding on the flat using the mechanical disk brake). Over 1 year and 2000 miles the front hydraulic brake is still really effective but the rear mechanical disk has become far less effective (neither of which I've done any maintenance to). I will swap that one over too now.

 

I've seen people on here have bled hydraulic brakes, (does it vary by brake brand/model ? Saw this https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/6463 ) but I've not had to either on my Carrera or my 10 year old Boardman mtb(I think I use the brakes more on the MTB). They are still really effective, could lock the wheel if I pull hard enough.

 

For £35 I think it is a no brainer to swap over.

Edited June 18, 20241 yr by Peter.Bridge

Hydraulic disc all day long on any bike, my pad bite just gets better all the time having bed in nicely . Cheap china pads at a £1 a go and no issues with their performance , only another dozen or so pairs to get thru so should last me for ever.

What a load of shite… instead of just stating your opinion as fact as usual, can you back this up with some reasoning and evidence?

 

There are millions of bikes with cable disk brakes and all the major brake manufacturers make them. Are you saying they’re negligent and the riders are going to suffer death unless they spend an hour a week maintaining their brakes?

 

…or actually are they just fine, and no better/worse than any other brakes.

 

Here is a balanced view, presented with reasoning and explanation rather than just stated as fact….

https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/buyers-guides/mechanical-disc-brakes

Quoting stuff from the Internet when you have zero or close to zero experience in these matters. If I were you, I'd stop trying to score points, which only makes yourself look silly. Instead, grab some spanners and start experimenting with stuff, then come back here and tell us what you found out, not what some guy on the Internet said,

Quoting stuff from the Internet when you have zero or close to zero experience in these matters. If I were you, I'd stop trying to score points, which only makes yourself look silly. Instead, grab some spanners and start experimenting with stuff, then come back here and tell us what you found out, not what some guy on the Internet said,

 

Haha, exactly like you! Every single topic on here you have to chime in and say ‘don’t do it like that, do it like this because I say so’ with no reasoning or explanation at all.

 

If anyone has anything different from what you have then it’s categorically wrong… torque sensing, mid-drive etc etc.

 

What you don’t realise is that you’re driving people away from the forum, every time someone asks a question or gives an opinion you state your own opinion as if it’s fact when it’s clear to all it’s not…. You’re think you’re the big fish and this is your forum… fair enough mate… enjoy your power!!

 

Meanwhile or your own projects are utter shite… fancy getting your chain line so wrong that your chain keeps falling off and you have to bodge it with a chain guide??

Nowhere in that article does it mention E-bikes, which weigh more and have higher average speeds. Consider that mass going fast downhill.

 

Let me ask you a question, how would you fancy cable operated brakes on your car or motorbike?

 

Anyway, enjoy getting torn a new one by saneagle

 

The biggest factor to the weight of a bike is the rider. An e-bike is 10kgs at most more than a normal bike, whereas the rider can vary by 50kgs and yet when designing the bike this will be within the envelope for the brakes.

 

People were competing at the tour-de-France with rim brakes not that long ago… does a folder need hydraulic brakes to pop to the station and back??

 

On my car, do I need 6 pot pistons and carbon brake disks all round, change the fluid after every 1000 miles? No… single piston disks and drums at the rear is just fine.

 

Cable operated disks are just fine…the stopping distance will be the same with the same pads and disk size as hydraulic. You could see the maintenance as less than hydraulics and the failure mode as more progressive than getting air/water/dirt in hydraulics.

 

Thank you for the warning of san eagle tearing me a new one, I assume you’re one of his playground gang… next you’ll be telling everyone meet behind the bike sheds at 4pm!!

Haha, exactly like you! Every single topic on here you have to chime in and say ‘don’t do it like that, do it like this because I say so’ with no reasoning or explanation at all.

 

If anyone has anything different from what you have then it’s categorically wrong… torque sensing, mid-drive etc etc.

 

What you don’t realise is that you’re driving people away from the forum, every time someone asks a question or gives an opinion you state your own opinion as if it’s fact when it’s clear to all it’s not…. You’re think you’re the big fish and this is your forum… fair enough mate… enjoy your power!!

 

Meanwhile or your own projects are utter shite… fancy getting your chain line so wrong that your chain keeps falling off and you have to bodge it with a chain guide??

I can't help it if crank-drives and torque sensors are shite and you haven't a clue what you're talking about.

 

If you know so much, can you make a suggestion on how to improve the chainline on my bike?

Cable operated disks are just fine…the stopping distance will be the same with the same pads and disk size as hydraulic.

not quite. Cable operated disc brakes have only one piston, pushing only one side against the rotor. The other side is static. Hydraulic brakes have at least two pistons and the pads are usually larger too.

I can't help it if crank-drives and torque sensors are shite and you haven't a clue what you're talking about.

 

If you know so much, can you make a suggestion on how to improve the chainline on my bike?

 

I’d be happy to help… post up some pictures of your frame and motor fitment? These things do need to be considered properly when selecting a frame and motor combination… if you just go with what you’ve got then it may be fundamentally wrong and only minor fettling possible.

 

With my project, the first thing I bought was a brand new frame, a 29’er from Evans Cycles that was only £90 in the sale. It has through axles and wide chainstays for a 1x cassette. So I had to do a lot of planning to select a motor and chain ring to optimise my chain line. Used a lot of cardboard cutouts to get it right. I went with a BBSHD because this was the one that fit the best but also kinda wanted that one too… I fettled the bottom bracket face and the motor casing and used an offset Leckie Bling Ring but achieved the results I wanted to, my chainring is bang on central to the 11 speed cassette.

The biggest factor to the weight of a bike is the rider. An e-bike is 10kgs at most more than a normal bike, whereas the rider can vary by 50kgs and yet when designing the bike this will be within the envelope for the brakes.

 

Yes, but some envelopes are better than others.

 

People were competing at the tour-de-France with rim brakes not that long ago… does a folder need hydraulic brakes to pop to the station and back??

 

"Not that long ago" But not now of course.

 

On my car, do I need 6 pot pistons and carbon brake disks all round, change the fluid after every 1000 miles? No… single piston disks and drums at the rear is just fine.

 

But you'd still prefer it if your front brakes (at least) were hydraulic disks.

 

Cable operated disks are just fine…the stopping distance will be the same with the same pads and disk size as hydraulic. You could see the maintenance as less than hydraulics and the failure mode as more progressive than getting air/water/dirt in hydraulics.

 

I don't think any of that is true.

 

Thank you for the warning of san eagle tearing me a new one, I assume you’re one of his playground gang… next you’ll be telling everyone meet behind the bike sheds at 4pm!!

 

That's pretty funny, I'm pleased we can enjoy some friendly banter

 

In other news, you'll be pleased to hear I shortened my rear brake hose by following Youtube stuff. Piece of p1ss. Went out for a ride, marvellous, I'm never going back to rubbish brakes.

Edited June 18, 20241 yr by Waspy

Yes, but some envelopes are better than others.

 

 

 

"Not that long ago" But not now of course.

 

 

 

But you'd still prefer it if your front brakes (at least) were hydraulic disks.

 

 

 

I don't think any of that is true.

 

 

 

That's pretty funny, I'm pleased we can enjoy some friendly banter

 

In other news, you'll be pleased to hear I shortened my rear brake hose by following Youtube stuff. Piece of ****. Went out for a ride, marvellous, I'm never going back to rubbish brakes.

 

In our house we have about 6 bikes… some have hydraulic brakes, some have rim brakes, some have cable operated disks. All of them work just fine and if squeezed hard enough can lock up the wheels… I don’t think any of them have ever needed any maintenance at all…

 

If any, it’s the hydraulics that I have the feeling I’m neglecting…probably supposed to bleed them again sometime or change the fluid.

 

I’m sure cable operated brakes are just fine on a folder! Shimano know their shit… Sure if building a bike from scratch I’d opt for hydraulics but if buying an existing bike I’d be happy with cable, there is nothing wrong with it.

I’m sure cable operated brakes are just fine on a folder!

 

My v-brakes certainly are. They stop me sharpish and I am going to stick with them. Totally given up on the idea of disc conversion. There are at least a zillion 20" wheeled bikes out there, and a market of a zillion is hard for manufacturers to ignore - I'll continue buying new rims and brake pads.

If nothing else, I get through a small fortune in brake pads and need to adjust for wear every few outings. My hill is steep, single track, covered in loose gravel, high hedges and sharp bends. It’s the sort of hill you descend at 10mph in case you meet an idiot in a car coming up that refuses to stop. And I’ve met a few

 

I'm always having to go slow downhill myself, but I don't get why you need to adjust your brakes so often. Are you not tightening the brake pads in position enough? Small drop of 3 in 1 on the thread, holding the pad stationary at the right angle, and making fast short and sharp hard turns with the allen key works for me. Slow turns turn the brake pad. Then the only adjustment needed is tightening the brake cable every so often, as the pads wear down. When positioned tightly enough, they won't change angle when you brake.

Edited June 18, 20241 yr by guerney

My v-brakes certainly are. They stop me sharpish and I am going to stick with them.

 

Same with the brakes on my Bromptons, they work just fine, not much maintenance really.

 

The rim wear is a pain though, I have never needed to replace one, but the front wheel rim on my sons Brompton failed after only 9 years of regular use.

The rim wear is a pain though, I have never needed to replace one, but the front wheel rim on my sons Brompton failed after only 9 years.

 

9 years?!? Is his not electric? Are Brompton rims steel? Before I converted my bike, it was still on it's original rims from 2006... now I get through them every year or so. When I can't quickly find the right rims, I buy entire wheels. Fortunately my latest rear wheel was a sweet deal from Banruptbikeparts. Haven't installed it yet, hope it isn't squeaky.

9 years?!? Is his not electric?

 

No, 6 speed manual, standard alloy rims.

 

But only 9 years !!! clearly rim wear is a serious issue.

No, 6 speed manual, standard alloy rims.

 

But only 9 years !!! clearly rim wear is a serious issue.

 

 

The rims on my non-electric folder are wearing badly and hardly use it. On my electric mtb conversion I think the rims also won’t last too long. A lot really depends on the hills and speed one can safely descend said hills. I’m down to 10mph on very steep hills because single track, bends, high hedges, gravel. If my brakes stopped me better I might go a bit faster, but not much. The rims take a lot of wear like this… It’s not like stopping at a few traffic lights.

 

I can just about live with the poor stopping, the constant adjustment is a real bore.