My current ride is approaching 20kmiles. It's a front hub Ezee and I think the whole ensemble is getting a bit old. Not only that but the increasing number of confiscations make me think I need to get fully legal.

I have a KT kit with an AKM rear hub which I've taken off my recumbent ( a failed project - me and the bike didn't get on - anyone want to buy a Velotechnik Street Machine GT?).

I'm looking for a bike to put it on. Current bike has Suntour NVX forks which are not much cop. I know nothing about suspension forks so could do with some pointers on what to look for on a new machine. What makes are good? What do they look like?

In the mean time here's a photo of my scratch built wheel truing stand in case it helps anyone else. Used it to build the replacement wheel for the recumbent.

Where do you live (roughly)

What sort of riding will you do ? Roads, Trails, off road ?

Any preference on wheel size - what size / speed is the AKM rear hub ?

 

Air forks, hydraulic disc brakes ?

 

https://www.facebook.com/share/18ATMJBmAo/

 

https://www.facebook.com/share/16my7mM4eG/

Edited May 28, 2025May 28 by Peter.Bridge

If you get a donor with 26" wheels, there are plenty of cheap high quality air forks now because they've gone out of fashion. 26" wheels are better than bigger ones for hub-motors too. Air forks are great for any type of ride.

Full suspension ? Looks like enough room for a battery

 

https://www.facebook.com/share/19B3tEatYu/

 

Or another full suspension with 26" wheels and room for battery, seems ok price wise

 

https://www.facebook.com/share/1Hfj178XrQ

Edited May 28, 2025May 28 by Peter.Bridge

Here are some 26" air forks under £120, the next 'band' seems to be £160+. All sound much the same but vary a bit in the details they leave out. Not heard of these brands, maybe because no-one could pronounce them. Are they decent quality? How would you choose?

-1- -2- -3- -4- -5- -6-

Thanks guys.

I have an AKM128 (labelled 250w - ahem!) built into a 26" rear wheel, but am prepared to put it into a 700c (I have rims and am rather enjoying the lacing).

Current bike has 48,38,28 x 8 speed which suits me fine for the hills and back roads of west Wales. I'm fine with a hard tail but want a better fork than the Suntour 'cos the back roads can get a bit rough.

So, looks like I'm looking for something with air forks. They need servicing don't they so I'm guessing a known make I can get parts for would be best. A hybrid rather than a full mountain bike.

They need servicing don't they so I'm guessing a known make I can get parts for would be best.

I've never even pumped up my air forks in 12 years and around 10,000 miles, and I bought them second hand.

Here you go. It's worth buying just for the forks and still worth the drive down there to get it, though it looks like a pretty good bike for conversion. I have three of these now; one with a Q128, shortly to be changed to a 48v MXUS, just to see what It's like; one has a 48v TSDZ2; and the third has a 48v TSDZ8.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/306324321819?_skw=rocky+mountain&itmmeta=01JWCJ9VB7KJDF9HAAKT51PHSD&hash=item47525a361b:g:eWMAAeSwBnJoHiHV&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cwmEcXXWQy0xmKIJQMMFw9FJCL43bOlhiTtTZf9bH84YCsD6EFSbQwbvhtZN7aV7rFpsZ2fgxoMo8fDcbTJMMFOtbOk1phE4FJW9tLu4kLlPuu5yEprBg3dr%2B8HAaZvs8FNpVuCDxlAhXzV4cS9bXYda6gZFLs%2B1R9J1kaKuiyanqDdxKZ5SJmIcb2c5qnPDhv34OtyFGfyvWLBu6k9lxz7kzoSCFsp5X2Isg4Yoev%2BBReFn8ZJCiN1CIjdSHGhRpSbFPksYheicdJ2y7D%2BbMfxPDEompMCwG6cboIUfojwg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR_K1p5LjZQ

Worth getting a shock pump

 

https://ebay.us/m/i2HiNE

 

Last owner had fork air pressure too low for me but checked them and not lost any pressure since

Here you go. It's worth buying just for the forks and still worth the drive down there to get it, though it looks like a pretty good bike for conversion. I have three of these now; one with a Q128, shortly to be changed to a 48v MXUS, just to see what It's like; one has a 48v TSDZ2; and the third has a 48v TSDZ8.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/306324321819?_skw=rocky+mountain&itmmeta=01JWCJ9VB7KJDF9HAAKT51PHSD&hash=item47525a361b:g:eWMAAeSwBnJoHiHV&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cwmEcXXWQy0xmKIJQMMFw9FJCL43bOlhiTtTZf9bH84YCsD6EFSbQwbvhtZN7aV7rFpsZ2fgxoMo8fDcbTJMMFOtbOk1phE4FJW9tLu4kLlPuu5yEprBg3dr%2B8HAaZvs8FNpVuCDxlAhXzV4cS9bXYda6gZFLs%2B1R9J1kaKuiyanqDdxKZ5SJmIcb2c5qnPDhv34OtyFGfyvWLBu6k9lxz7kzoSCFsp5X2Isg4Yoev%2BBReFn8ZJCiN1CIjdSHGhRpSbFPksYheicdJ2y7D%2BbMfxPDEompMCwG6cboIUfojwg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR_K1p5LjZQ

Thanks Saneagle.

It's bloody typical isn't it!. I've just come back from 2 weeks charity work in Norfolk. I could have come back that way, the van would have swallowed that bike. Now Google maps is giving me an 8.5 hour round journey to get it.

Here you go. It's worth buying just for the forks and still worth the drive down there to get it, though it looks like a pretty good bike for conversion. I have three of these now; one with a Q128, shortly to be changed to a 48v MXUS, just to see what It's like; one has a 48v TSDZ2; and the third has a 48v TSDZ8.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/306324321819?_skw=rocky+mountain&itmmeta=01JWCJ9VB7KJDF9HAAKT51PHSD&hash=item47525a361b:g:eWMAAeSwBnJoHiHV&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cwmEcXXWQy0xmKIJQMMFw9FJCL43bOlhiTtTZf9bH84YCsD6EFSbQwbvhtZN7aV7rFpsZ2fgxoMo8fDcbTJMMFOtbOk1phE4FJW9tLu4kLlPuu5yEprBg3dr%2B8HAaZvs8FNpVuCDxlAhXzV4cS9bXYda6gZFLs%2B1R9J1kaKuiyanqDdxKZ5SJmIcb2c5qnPDhv34OtyFGfyvWLBu6k9lxz7kzoSCFsp5X2Isg4Yoev%2BBReFn8ZJCiN1CIjdSHGhRpSbFPksYheicdJ2y7D%2BbMfxPDEompMCwG6cboIUfojwg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR_K1p5LjZQ

 

I wonder how much that will go for? Only the next county over for me too. Shame it's a medium, I've always said I'd get a large next time. and I've just spent 500 quid on a new exhaust.

 

I'd be very interested in how your MXUS runs at 48v.

Here you go. It's worth buying just for the forks and still worth the drive down there to get it, though it looks like a pretty good bike for conversion. I have three of these now; one with a Q128, shortly to be changed to a 48v MXUS, just to see what It's like; one has a 48v TSDZ2; and the third has a 48v TSDZ8.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/306324321819?_skw=rocky+mountain&itmmeta=01JWCJ9VB7KJDF9HAAKT51PHSD&hash=item47525a361b:g:eWMAAeSwBnJoHiHV&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cwmEcXXWQy0xmKIJQMMFw9FJCL43bOlhiTtTZf9bH84YCsD6EFSbQwbvhtZN7aV7rFpsZ2fgxoMo8fDcbTJMMFOtbOk1phE4FJW9tLu4kLlPuu5yEprBg3dr%2B8HAaZvs8FNpVuCDxlAhXzV4cS9bXYda6gZFLs%2B1R9J1kaKuiyanqDdxKZ5SJmIcb2c5qnPDhv34OtyFGfyvWLBu6k9lxz7kzoSCFsp5X2Isg4Yoev%2BBReFn8ZJCiN1CIjdSHGhRpSbFPksYheicdJ2y7D%2BbMfxPDEompMCwG6cboIUfojwg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR_K1p5LjZQ

When I clicked on that ebay link it gave me "similar items from ebay shops" - I guess it was trying to be helpful

 

Having just been shopping, I've had second and third thoughts. Despite the Rocky Mountain being a much revered bike, I realise I need a hard tail so I can use my panniers and my 36v rack battery which still has a lot of use in it.

Having just been shopping, I've had second and third thoughts. Despite the Rocky Mountain being a much revered bike, I realise I need a hard tail so I can use my panniers and my 36v rack battery which still has a lot of use in it.

 

Same dude's selling this:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/306324338493

Having just been shopping, I've had second and third thoughts. Despite the Rocky Mountain being a much revered bike, I realise I need a hard tail so I can use my panniers and my 36v rack battery which still has a lot of use in it.

I just had a thought. The heavy motor in your present forks will completely compromise their correct operation because it will reduce the sprung to unsprung ratio by a factor of about 4. You might find that they're acceptable when you don't have a motor in them. That's another reason why it's not a good idea to fit a motor in a front wheel. Also, the torque from the motor puts a twisting force through the forks, which substantially increases the stiction when under power to the extent that a high torque motor can even lock them. That's another reason not to fit a high-torque motor.

 

What about simply putting the AKM in your present bike and seeing how you get on? For the money you'd pay for a new donor or decent set of forks, you could get a downtube battery too, which would improve the suspension further because it would increase the sprung mass. Your rear battery over the unsprung axle is in the worst position for your present front suspension.

I have three of these now...

 

Can I ask you a question, what size frames are your Rocky Mountains?

 

I believe sir is a taller gentleman.

Can I ask you a question, what size frames are your Rocky Mountains?

 

I believe sir is a taller gentleman.

One medium and two large. I'm 5 ft 10" with 31" inside leg, and I get on OK with both sizes.

 

One of the large ones is 19". The others aren't marked, but I'd say 17" and 19". I think my ideal would be 18", but an inch either way is no problem, though as I get older, the larger frame gives a more upright riding position, which is now more comfortable. 10 years ago, speed was more important, so the lower position was better.

One medium and two large. I'm 5 ft 10" with 31" inside leg, and I get on OK with both sizes.

 

One of the large ones is 19". The others aren't marked, but I'd say 17" and 19". I think my ideal would be 18", but an inch either way is no problem, though as I get older, the larger frame gives a more upright riding position, which is now more comfortable. 10 years ago, speed was more important, so the lower position was better.

 

Oh, for some reason I thought you were taller. I'm 6' 2" with a 34" inside leg (at least) and really feel the need for a Large frame. I had a go on a friends XL Specialised and it felt great. I think a 21" frame would suit me best, but you rarely see them (20 year old MTBs) at the prices we like. That Rocky Mountain in Bordon is a steal if hardly anyone bids on it, but I can't get past the medium size.

 

First world problems of course, if Medium that was all that was available, I'd be happy with that.

I just had a thought. The heavy motor in your present forks will completely compromise their correct operation because it will reduce the sprung to unsprung ratio by a factor of about 4. You might find that they're acceptable when you don't have a motor in them. That's another reason why it's not a good idea to fit a motor in a front wheel. Also, the torque from the motor puts a twisting force through the forks, which substantially increases the stiction when under power to the extent that a high torque motor can even lock them. That's another reason not to fit a high-torque motor.

 

What about simply putting the AKM in your present bike and seeing how you get on? For the money you'd pay for a new donor or decent set of forks, you could get a downtube battery too, which would improve the suspension further because it would increase the sprung mass. Your rear battery over the unsprung axle is in the worst position for your present front suspension.

That's exactly what I was starting to think as I rode this morning. It's already set up with swept back bars and I like the gearing. Being a tight wad enviromentalist I want to get the useful life out of the rack battery, hoping we might be seeing a different chemistry by the time I need a new one. I also have a Dillinger 48v off the recumbent so might run dual voltage to use that up too.

Knowing the high mileage on rough roads (some little better than rough tracks) I do have a concern about metal fatigue on the ally frame.

As a short arse (5'5") it's a 17-18 inch frame for me.

Oh, for some reason I thought you were taller. I'm 6' 2" with a 34" inside leg (at least) and really feel the need for a Large frame. I had a go on a friends XL Specialised and it felt great. I think a 21" frame would suit me best, but you rarely see them (20 year old MTBs) at the prices we like. That Rocky Mountain in Bordon is a steal if hardly anyone bids on it, but I can't get past the medium size.

 

First world problems of course, if Medium that was all that was available, I'd be happy with that.

I need a pair of forks and wheels for my latest build, so I might have a go at it. The forks I have are pretty good, but I don't really have enough length of steerer sticking out to be safe. The problem is the 400 mile round trip that's going to cost about £90 and 7 hours driving, though I fancy a day in Guildford because I used to live there.

 

I would have finished this months ago, but my apprentice is supposed to be learning by doing, and he doesn't enough time in.

 

Well tight wad has won out, so I've decided to go with what I've got.

First was scavenging the rim from a defunct Ezee motor case:

 

Having removed the spokes I've used the Ryan method of finding the ERD. I tightened nipples onto two old spokes so they would not move. Cut off the j bend and cut and file the spokes to the same length. In this case215mm. Insert the spokes into opposite holes and measure between the two ends, 172mm. Then add the lot together to get ERD, 215+215+172= 602.

 

Next stop will be Grin Technologies site to remind myself on how to measure the hub motor to get spoke length and offset.

So to spokes and the much debated 'What diameter?'. Remind me is it 12 or 13 guage? I favour Sapim super strongs if I can get them.

Well tight wad has won out, so I've decided to go with what I've got.

First was scavenging the rim from a defunct Ezee motor case:

[ATTACH=full]63359[/ATTACH]

 

Having removed the spokes I've used the Ryan method of finding the ERD. I tightened nipples onto two old spokes so they would not move. Cut off the j bend and cut and file the spokes to the same length. In this case215mm. Insert the spokes into opposite holes and measure between the two ends, 172mm. Then add the lot together to get ERD, 215+215+172= 602.

[ATTACH=full]63360[/ATTACH]

 

Next stop will be Grin Technologies site to remind myself on how to measure the hub motor to get spoke length and offset.

So to spokes and the much debated 'What diameter?'. Remind me is it 12 or 13 guage? I favour Sapim super strongs if I can get them.

That's a lot of work to get a simple measurement. I just measure the diameter in two directions and add 5mm.

"Having removed the spokes I've used the Ryan method of finding the ERD. "

 

I like that method. I have some straight spokes that I bought by mistake. Would be a good use for them.

 

On my last wheel, I used the ERD on the seller's website. Normally, I don't mind if they are a bit long, because I use double wall rims and can add washers too. These .

spokes were so long, they poked past the upper wall.

That's a lot of work to get a simple measurement. I just measure the diameter in two directions and add 5mm.

Well there ya go. Experience wins out. Sometimes you've just gotta do it the hard way to see the easy way !

The Grin spoke calculator is giving me left spoke length 241mm and right 240.1, so I'm thinking 241 all round.

https://ebikes.ca/tools/spoke-calc.html?hub=cust_d130_s41_o-9_n36_l135_h2.5_p22.7&pair=false&rim=cust_dia622_e602_lo1_ro1_w31&lelb=in&relb=out