July 4, 2025Jul 4 Here's the settings P1 128 P2 1 P3 1 P4 1 P5 13 C1 07 C2 0 C3 8 C4 3 C5 09 C6 3 C7 0 C8 0 C9 0 C10 n C11 0 C12 4 C13 0 C14 2 Pas settings 1 80w ish 2 160 ish 3 280 ish 4 380 ish 5 720 ish I'm using P1 = 150. It's used to calculate speed from the hall sensors and wheel diameter. A lower value will give you a lower speed readout. When coasting, thw speed comes from the speed sensor and wheel diameter. I believe the odometer picks up the speed sensor data when P2 is not zero. Anyway, I don't see this impacting performance, other than the bike is really about 10% faster Your C5 = 09 reduces the max current by 10%. I often adjust C5 on different bikes that my wife and I ride, to equalize our speeds in assist level 1. I'm surprised at your 80 watts at 36V. I am going to strap a 36V pack on our Q128 and see I get. I'm seeing 140W on 48V. Should be 100W at least on 36V, Edited July 4, 2025Jul 4 by harrys
July 4, 2025Jul 4 Brakes switches can cause issues sometimes , I remember my BBS01 being a right pain with two switches so took the front one off. With KT I have never fitted brake switches because they are not required. Good point, Benjamin, disconnect the brakes and see if the problem goes away.
July 4, 2025Jul 4 Author Good info, thanks Neal. Motor only got midly warm. I'll ride tomorrow with the top off the controller box to feel what the controller does. P1 was at 128 as Topbikekit reckon the Q128 328 800w is 8:1. I'll try a bit higher to see what happens. I'm surprised at your 80 watts at 36V. I am going to strap a 36V pack on our Q128 and see I get. I'm seeing 140W on 48V. Should be 100W at least on 36V, That would be useful, thanks. Just disconnected the brake, I'll try tomorrow. Thanks all. Of course through all this i can see Mr Woosh sitting there going Mmm-hum !
July 4, 2025Jul 4 8.1 is claimed for the 328rpm so P1 130. One should have gone for one of the 201's. 328's are good for small 16'' wheels or for very flat terrain on bigger wheels but not for climbers.
July 4, 2025Jul 4 Author Well, that's the direction my thoughts are going in. Motor was originally bought for a 26" wheel recumbent. Seemed to work alright but the whole experience was so different I couldn't really tell what was going on. Ditched that project and thought, 'OK I'll use the kit to turn my bike into a legal machine as the authorities seem to be getting clued in'. Jeez ! Part of me wishes I hadn't bothered. I'll try again tomorrow but confidence, in this system as is, is low. Looks like I'm going to be ordering a Q128 36v 201. Plus side is I'm getting really good at wheel building.
July 4, 2025Jul 4 Looks like I'm going to be ordering a Q128 36v 201. Plus side is I'm getting really good at wheel building. Where will you order it from?
July 5, 2025Jul 5 'OK I'll use the kit to turn my bike into a legal machine as the authorities seem to be getting clued in'. Looks like I'm going to be ordering a Q128 36v 201 They don't seem clued in. If they seize your bike despite your self-printed label, how would you prove your motor is manufacturer rated 250W to get it back/prevent seizure, when "400W-500W" will be stated on the receipt? https://bmsbattery.com/motor/382-15949-q128-36v400w-500w-rear-driving-ebike-hub-motor-ebike-kit.html Edited July 5, 2025Jul 5 by guerney
July 5, 2025Jul 5 They don't seem clued in. If they seize your bike despite your self-printed label, how would you prove your motor is manufacturer rated 250W to get it back/prevent seizure, when "400W-500W" will be stated on the receipt? https://bmsbattery.com/motor/382-15949-q128-36v400w-500w-rear-driving-ebike-hub-motor-ebike-kit.html Yeah, the only manufacturer 250w rated akm-128 motors I've seen are on Wisper 705 / 905 / maybe others You do see them occasionally for spares / repairs
July 5, 2025Jul 5 Yeah, the only manufacturer 250w rated akm-128 motors I've seen are on Wisper 705 / 905 / maybe others You do see them occasionally for spares / repairs Does the 905se have one? Only £99: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305943571109 "SE" usually means "Sucker's Edition".
July 5, 2025Jul 5 Does the 905se have one? Only £99: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305943571109 "SE" usually means "Sucker's Edition". Oh 905, yes possibly
July 5, 2025Jul 5 Well, that's the direction my thoughts are going in. Motor was originally bought for a 26" wheel recumbent. Seemed to work alright but the whole experience was so different I couldn't really tell what was going on. Ditched that project and thought, 'OK I'll use the kit to turn my bike into a legal machine as the authorities seem to be getting clued in'. Jeez ! Part of me wishes I hadn't bothered. I'll try again tomorrow but confidence, in this system as is, is low. Looks like I'm going to be ordering a Q128 36v 201. Plus side is I'm getting really good at wheel building. AKM 128HCST cn never be legal as it is 800w rated .
July 5, 2025Jul 5 Author And this is the rabbit hole I went down before. The motor I have looks right. It's flange diameter is around 165mm. This makes it a few mil larger than my bottom gear cog and smaller than the 180mm disc on the other side. Nestled in there it doesn't attract attention. The only markings on it are some sort of serial number. AKM23032901002 BBA4816B The only reason I went for the 800w was that I thought it would better take the heat of all the hill climbing it will have to do. I'm not wedded to this motor. What I need is a high torque rear hub (don't want a mid drive for various reasons) that can get my ageing body up sometimes steep sometimes long hills. 16mph is fine, too much for the rutted back lanes. Any one got any suggestions? Otherwise it's the AKM from Topbikekit with this label on it. https://www.topbikekit.com/4pcs-ebike-36v250w-motor-waterproof-sticker-p-1328.html?zenid=6c73994ad8qnjiqbm7fi274c87 Complete with authentic spelling mistke ! It's highly unlikely that I will get pulled around here. However I want to take it to other places where it's more possible. i.e. Swansea, Birmingham, Trowbridge and other places mentioned in the seizures thread. So looking right in combination with a complete lack of hooligan behaviour will hopefully cut it.
July 5, 2025Jul 5 AKM 128HCST cn never be legal as it is 800w rated . It can be legal when AKM stamp 250w on it.
July 5, 2025Jul 5 Complete with authentic spelling mistke ! Are the Chinese doing this on purpose to dodge accountability? And it's "Sperring" not "Spelling" in the Godzirra films. Edited July 5, 2025Jul 5 by guerney
July 5, 2025Jul 5 Author I'm even considering buying some letter and number punches to mark the motor 250W and infill with white paint.
July 5, 2025Jul 5 It can be legal when AKM stamp 250w on it. Yes it is a shame that TBK can't etch / mark the motor for the relevant market/country they sell to. WIth no marking no one can tell the difference as the hubs are pretty light and small for their power .
July 5, 2025Jul 5 Author Went out shopping. Took a sat nav gps with me for speed registration. Brake switch now disconnected. P1=128 From start up, so system has just been turned on, mph display is zero until.........well I'm not quite sure what triggers it into action. Could be achieving cutoff speed but couldn't get that to repeat consistantly. This feature is there every time it's turned on. On the flat, cruising, mph on lcd approx. the same as sat nav Coasting on descent lcd showing approx 4mph below sat nav Climbing would show about 1mph above sat nav. Change P1 reading to 150, 158, 160 Climbing seemed to read around 1mph below sat nav. Coasting it would read around 5mph below. On the flat it was reading 4-5 mph below satnav. Motor still cuts out at displayed 16mph On these higher settings it did also seem that the motor was quieter and less vibration at lower speeds. Great if one wants to get somewhere quickly but still have a correct cutoff speed displayed. How high can I go? Is there a point where it will 'come into phase' as it were? Will it cause damage?
July 5, 2025Jul 5 The higher P1 then does indicate the value is set too high then and 8:1 might well be the correct ratio. Lowering the value to 130 should bring it in line with the GPS reading . However running at 36v and not the wound for 48v , the hub may be happier with the higher P1 value.
July 5, 2025Jul 5 Author Strange, I'm watching the F1 free practice sessions, seeing them set the car up for qualifying. Honestly they think they've got a complex balancing act, they should try this !:oops: Here's a thing. I'm running 25% lower voltage. So I'm going to try plus and minus 25% of the P1128 setting and see what that does.
July 5, 2025Jul 5 It is very rare for a motor wound for a particular V to be under volted , we usually like to over volt 24v or 36v for more speed or torque . It could simply be the hub isn't liking being undervolted , can you try a 48v battery or 3s booster for 13s to see if the hub runs better.
July 5, 2025Jul 5 Author I do have a 48v Dillinger battery of unknown age. Guess I could temporarily strap it to the rack. I'll have to run my 36v battery down to below 48v cutoff first, so that I can reset the controller after testing.
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