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Front hub 48v motor for very hilly area

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it's not easy to find a controller built into the base of your battery.

You may have to consider a 48V BBS02.

http://eclipsebikes.com/product_info.php?products_id=5&osCsid=18de0044d9251ca7bc4e778522c183b0

Thanks, but why would I need to have a controller built into the battery base?

 

The cargo bike is huge, I can prob. fit a number of controllers all over the cargo box :cool:

 

Will be haunting for a 250w SWX02 or BPM to be fitted in the front wheel. Whichever I find first ;-)

 

Many thanks for taking the time to provide your advice guys, much appreciated :)

Edited by BidelloZ

The cargo bike is huge, I can prob. fit a number of controllers all over the cargo box

 

the controller needs protection from humidity, even when it's potted in silicon.

It's very difficult to fabricate a good box with wires coming out of it.

  • Author

the controller needs protection from humidity, even when it's potted in silicon.

It's very difficult to fabricate a good box with wires coming out of it.

 

Good to know extra protection is needed, I might use a marine rated submersible box, something rated to 10 bars should prevent moisture altogether ;-)

Yet another motor?

 

Seriously though, rear at the moment is out of the equation otherwise I’d consider that hub.

 

So BPM is bigger and (?) beefier than the SWX02. But more difficult to find with the 36v250w specs.

 

SWX02 is lighter but can handle the load no probs (?). And easier to find.

 

Seems a no brainer. I do value different opinions, but overall what’s the final verdict? :)

 

No, I was just giving your the example of a motor that is as rare as hens teeth to find, it isn't adapted to your usage but rather to mine.

 

The SWX02 will have plenty of grunt in a small wheel.

  • Author

No, I was just giving your the example of a motor that is as rare as hens teeth to find, it isn't adapted to your usage but rather to mine.

 

The SWX02 will have plenty of grunt in a small wheel.

Awesome thanks.

 

As many other have experienced, finding the right bits is rather difficult, no wonder people take the easy route and rely on ready to go and tested kits like woosh ones :)

 

I’d really want to avoid having to buy a motor with anything but 250w stamped on it. The very reason I removed the BBSHD was the risk of getting into trouble. Many told me I was being anxious and exaggerating things. I’m only being sensible, can’t mess around when strolling kids aboot :)

 

Cheers

Btw, I know this is marked 36v350w but in your experience is it possible at all to communicate with these sellers and have such motors engraved “250w”?

 

Apologies in advance if it’s really as silly as it sounds :-D

 

https://bmsbattery.com/motor/349-15689-bafang-36v350w-bpm2-front-driving-hub-motor-ebike-kit.html#/213-rpm-201

 

Good luck with that :)

 

Seriously look at the sticker on this motor:

 

https://bmsbattery.com/motor/353-15748-q100-36v250w-350w-rear-driving-ebike-hub-motor-ebike-kit.html#/213-rpm-201

 

Now wouldn't that be easy to peel off and replace with your own sticker? Not saying you should or anything silly :rolleyes:

  • Author

Good luck with that :)

 

Seriously look at the sticker on this motor:

 

https://bmsbattery.com/motor/353-15748-q100-36v250w-350w-rear-driving-ebike-hub-motor-ebike-kit.html#/213-rpm-201

 

Now wouldn't that be easy to peel off and replace with your own sticker? Not saying you should or anything silly :rolleyes:

Yep thought about that, but then could have also done the same with the BBSHD which had 1000w engraved on it :-O

Surely could dremel things down and re-engrave. Wondering how sensible that is... :-D

  • Author

So after some time spent searching the web (not the dark web though, might have to give Tor a go...) I only seem to come across 350w BPMs and lots of 48v500w SWX02.

Also found an 36v250w SWXH2, not sure how this differs from the SWX02.

 

I’m thinking, considering all the fuss with the 250w limitations, I should maybe consider a more powerful hub for the REAR wheel too, and possibly have the sticker drop somehow...

 

But, if I were to finally go that route, I’d prefer torque sensing over cadence. So unless there are torque sensing hubs, I might need a BB torque sensor.

 

Definitely more food for thoughts.

 

Equally, maintaining my original decision of going for an front hub, I could just get one of the hubs mentioned above and deal with the 350w labelling.

 

If rated power weren’t the limit, a good rear cassette hub say around 500w (for it being not too obviously illegal) could do with my heavy bike? Directly drive or still geared? And torque sensing?

Wondering about the MAC motors, the Crystalite, the Cyclotricity (incidentally these are in Glenrothes).

Cheers

The SWH2 is not a powerful motor like the SWX02. It's only 122mm diameter instead of 158mm.

 

the Q100s and Q128s used to have a peal-off label, which solved ecverything, since the motors are the same size or smaller than any of the regular 250W ones, but since BMSB switched to genuine Aikema versions, the markings are printed on in silver, which is just an ID number and production date. No power rating marked.

 

I've seen a guy make his own labels out of 2" sticky backed aluminium tape, printed on a laser printer or photocopier, and laminated with 2" sellotape to keep the print nice.

  • Author

Thanks for that.

How about Mac motors, or Crystalite? And these switchable Ciclotrycity? 250w legal and 1000w?

Thanks for that.

How about Mac motors, or Crystalite? And these switchable Ciclotrycity? 250w legal and 1000w?

Expensive, heavy and unnecessary. Cyclotricity are heavy, not efficient at low speed and need a powerful battery.

  • Author

Expensive, heavy and unnecessary. Cyclotricity are heavy, not efficient at low speed and need a powerful battery.

Gotta love a concise reply.

 

Nice thanks, all the above out of the equation :)

  • Author

The Q128 48v500w 201 rpm version seems nice, takes a cassette, and it could be a good quick option for the moment, if I were to go with a rear hub. Clearly there is also the front version.

 

Also found the BPM2 36v350w and 48v500w as front hub. Better take the 48v version right?

 

I think I might just go with one of these and see how to mark it properly.

 

BPM2, Q128 or SWX02? Whatever the marked wattage.

 

Cheers

  • Author

Nice article, thanks.

So an SWXH (on steel gears) seems to behave even better than a BPM?

 

Still seems the SWX02 is the best option then, @48v500w that is. Need to check for availability in said rpm. Oh, also, wanted to ask: for a 26’’ wheel I’d want 200rpm or similar right? But since we’re looking at the front wheel of 20 inches, higher speed is actually better?

26" wheel the motor is usually around 260 rpm, 201 rpm motors are for more grunt. 20" wheels often use 325 rpm motors. I would need to see the steepness and the length of those hills you need to climb to form an opinion on which is best. What is your all up weight with the kids? With the slower wind you will be getting 25-27 km/h top speed, the 260 rpm is capable of about 30-33 km/h.

 

The next step is deciding on controller Amps...

  • Author

Not sure about % of inclines, but I can tell you that getting back home just by pedalling is very very hard.

 

Oh and I’d say stretched uphill are 200-300m max, a few before reaching home.

 

I’m 73Kg, kids combined around 42Kg, bike and wooden box prob another 25Kg...

Edited by BidelloZ

Not sure about % of inclines, but I can tell you that getting back home just by pedalling is very very hard.

 

Oh and I’d say stretched uphill are 200-300m max, a few before reaching home.

 

I’m 73Kg, kids combined around 42Kg, bike and wooden box prob another 25Kg...

 

+160kg motor and battery included. >180 kg the time the kids grow and have bags full of school stuff etc. etc.

 

If you can do it without a motor then adding 1 kW extra power you should be just fine - 48v x 25 Amp controller with a "500W" SWX02 = about 960W -> 1 kW at the wheel depending on state of charge of the battery.

  • Author

+160kg motor and battery included. >180 kg the time the kids grow and have bags full of school stuff etc. etc.

 

If you can do it without a motor then adding 1 kW extra power you should be just fine - 48v x 25 Amp controller with a "500W" SWX02 = about 960W -> 1 kW at the wheel depending on state of charge of the battery.

 

Excellent stuff, thanks so much. That on the front wheel should do nicely. Even though I’m tempted about rear hubs, I would prefer to keep the option of having an alfine or better hub in the future.

 

@ woosh I’ve got an email with your reply but can’t see it here. Anyway thanks for the offer, but remember, I’ve got my own battery and I understand you can’t sell the kit without battery.

 

Cheers

@ woosh I’ve got an email with your reply but can’t see it here. Anyway thanks for the offer, but remember, I’ve got my own battery and I understand you can’t sell the kit without battery.

yes, I keep forgetting that you had already a 48V battery!

  • Author

+160kg motor and battery included. >180 kg the time the kids grow and have bags full of school stuff etc. etc.

 

If you can do it without a motor then adding 1 kW extra power you should be just fine - 48v x 25 Amp controller with a "500W" SWX02 = about 960W -> 1 kW at the wheel depending on state of charge of the battery.

 

Btw to be honest I can’t really do it without motor :-D

 

In fact since where I live is more or less on the top of the town, when going to school in the mornings it’s fairly straightforward, but fortunately most of the afternoons either mom picks the kids up or I do collect one. Some times have to deal with both and bags full of stuff, and I wish I took the car :-)

Buy a hub and combine it with 9 mosfet 22a KT controller and a LCD3, 5, 6 or 8.

The 9 mosfet controller will run cooler then the 6 mosfet and if you want neat ness has easy plug and play connections. The KT LCD has 5 PAS levels so you can be frugal on flat terrain in PAS 1 and then 4 extra PAS levels for more power culminating in PAS 5 for 100% power and a nice easy pedal action in lowish gears for those hills.

KT lcd gives option to reduce amps /current delivery by a simple set up procedure.

Controller and LCD about £75 delivered + £10 odd for a PAS sensor, if want throttle and a brake sensor/cut off factor in another £15 - £20.

Edited by Nealh

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