October 30, 20232 yr Search 'swytch connector' on this forum and scroll down the results list to several recent threads that probably cover everything that is needed.
October 30, 20232 yr I am willing to be the guinea pig for this project, if you could recommend the battery, controller, and other bits I need, I am willing to have a go at completing the job. I want to get a 10 amp Hr battery or better, so the ball is in your court so to speak. The first step is to take the battery and controller out of the bag, put it on the table, measure them and photograph them. If they're in a plastic box, remove the screws and photograph what's inside. After that, measure the space inside your bag. In the 5 years that people have been buying and fitting this kit, I'm surprised that nobody on this forum has done that. It takes about 5 minutes and gives you all the answers. Everybody is waiting for somebody else to do it. None of this stuff is difficult, but we can't advise you if you don't show what you've got.
October 30, 20232 yr … he has the connectors - as long as he has a few inches Search 'swytch connector' on this forum and scroll down the results list to several recent threads that probably cover everything that is needed. The post I think you refer to is the one I did for the Gen 3 Swytch kit, where the battery clips off and the controller stays on the bike. This thread is for the Gen 2, where the controller, display, and battery are all in a bag that hangs on the handlebars.
October 30, 20232 yr The controller in the Swytch pack uses YLS connectors for the display, PAS etc, these are smaller than the normal Julet type. Then a XT30 for the battery and 3 pin MR30 for the motor phases. These connectors then feed into the connector on the back of the pack. The matching connector on the handlebars then converts these connections into the more normal Julet and motor connectors found on KT controllers etc. The exception is the brake sensors which are 4 pin blue Julet, KT setups tend to use 3 pin orange julet or two pin red Julet. Getting Julet cables for extensions is easy enough, dont know where you get the YLS type. Great info - thanks. He has the connectors needed already - as long as there is a few inches of cable attached to them!
October 30, 20232 yr He has the connectors needed already - as long as there is a few inches of cable attached to them! But you still need to use the multiway connector block in the bag mated with the matching multiway handlebar connector to connect the stuff like the motor, PAS, brakes, throttle ...............
October 30, 20232 yr But you still need to use the multiway connector block in the bag mated with the matching multiway handlebar connector to connect the stuff like the motor, PAS, brakes, throttle ............... Not fully convinced of that - although I’ve not got my hands on a gen 2 controller yet. My reasoning is that for each cable connection to the controller (PAS, display, and motor) there will surely be a mating connector that cables up to the big connector. By cutting as close to the big connector as possible there should be enough of a tail on the connector to make up an adapter cable. There aren’t many wires in each connection - PAS has 3, display has 5, motor has 9. There’s even youtube vids on how to extend the display cable - so that’s well understood. Not for the faint-hearted I accept, but if it’s approached carefully and as Saneagle says, documented properly, it won’t be a hard job. Maybe a new controller is a good way forward, but at the moment he has a fully working bike and just needs a new battery. A new controller leads you down other paths and compatabilites that I don’t think are necessary. Phew! A long post - sorry!
October 30, 20232 yr Author Battery pack is 190 WX125 H attached are photos of battery and cables. I have no problem converting the bike into a rear carrier type set up, and extending the cables to the handlebars if this is the easiest route to go.
October 30, 20232 yr Marvelous! First thing - get the battery into a safe situation - unplugged and out of the way. Get some masking tape and add an ID flag to each cable coming out of the controller. It’s obvious which one is the display. Add flags to all the connector/cables coming into the big connector housing, from all the devices on the bike (PAS, throttle, motor, brakes) and try to trace them through the big connector and identify the associated controller connectors.
October 30, 20232 yr The method I suggest is based on only doing one job at a time, and fully testing before moving on. First job would be to work out how long a cable you need for the display to reach from the new controller location to the handlebars and doing extending the display first (watch the youtube for that) - then fully test the bike. Second job would be to extend the PAS in the same way - probably using a julet extension cable - again testing afterwards. Ditto for the throttle, and leaving the motor connection to the last.
October 30, 20232 yr Battery pack is 190 WX125 H attached are photos of battery and cables. I have no problem converting the bike into a rear carrier type set up, and extending the cables to the handlebars if this is the easiest route to go. That's excellent, thanks. You have room for a downtube battery, so that's what I'd get for best handling and most convenience. You have a few choices with the controller. First would be to chuck it and get a KT one, which gives better pedal assistance power algorithms. You can get one as a complete kit with a throttle, pedal sensor and speed sensor for about £80. Stick it in an under saddle toolbag and get rid of the monstrosity on the front of your bike. Your bike will then be like a new one, and you'll like it much better. It looks like your motor is sensorless (only 3 wires), so you need a square-wave KT controller. There's a slight possibility that the controller might not work very well with your motor, so a bit of risk to think about. Sensorless motors can be dodgy. Second choice is to leave the bag and controller in place, and run the two wires from the battery up to it. One connector and you're done. Third choice is to buy another small cell-pack and put it in the bag. That's good if you want to remove the bag when the bike is at work or otherwise parked up. You might be able to get a 10S3P battery in there, but check the sizes first. such a cell-pack should cost around £120 and give you double the range you had before. If you can't fit it in the bag, you can buy bigger bands that you'd need to adjust for the cables and control panel. Fourth choice is the same as the first, but use a Brainpower controller with LCD. They cost about £40 and free you from restrictions that you have with your present controller, plus you get an LCD with speed display, etc. You'd need a wheel speed sensor to go with it that you can nick from any old cycle computer or by a cheapp cyclecomputer from Ebay and cut it off. Make sure the controller is a dual mode one (sensor and sensorless). Those controllers don't seem to be so fussy about the motor. Edited October 30, 20232 yr by saneagle
October 30, 20232 yr Saneagle has lot more experience than I do. Take his advice in preference to mine!
October 30, 20232 yr The cable layout in your Swytch bag looks to be the same as mine, 3 pin motor cable etc, see post #22 . I removed the Swytch kit from my first Brompton, so thats now human effort only. The Swytch motor wheel is currently running just fine on my other Brompton with a normal KT Sine Wave controller and LCD4 display. Edited October 30, 20232 yr by StuartsProjects
October 30, 20232 yr The Swytch motor wheel is currently running just fine on my other Brompton with a normal KT Sine Wave controller and LCD4 display. If your uses a sinewave controller, it must be sensorless. The picture in post #33 seems to show a sensorless motor, but it's not difinitive.
October 31, 20232 yr Author If your uses a sinewave controller, it must be sensorless. The picture in post #33 seems to show a sensorless motor, but it's not difinitive. The cable from the controller to the motor has nine pins so it must be sensorless.
October 31, 20232 yr Author I think on reflection, I would like to fit a good quality 10 A.H. pannier battery fitted to the rear carrier, remove completely the swytch kit, and fit a display to the controller, on the handlebars and a throttle, change the controller to one that can support the motor, display, PAS and throttle. I don't mind fitting the battery to the down tube as long as the endurance is 10 A.H. which ever option is best. Edited October 31, 20232 yr by rig the jig
November 2, 20232 yr Author Can anyone recommend a good quality controller to run the hall sensor 36V wheel
November 2, 20232 yr Yes a dual voltage 36/48v KT with a comaptible display, best place to buy is topbike kit , their aliexp store or other sellers on there. One can look at the 6 mosfet 15, 17 or 20a ones or as I prefer the slightly larger 9 mosfet 22a controllers. One can if need be reduce the max current via the display & C5 setting. One can select wp connectors or the SM block type which makes fault finding a doddle. One can fault find with wp connectors though you have to make bespoke Y leads to do so.
November 2, 20232 yr Yes a dual voltage 36/48v KT with a comaptible display, best place to buy is topbike kit , their aliexp store or other sellers on there. I bought a conversion kit from TopBikeKit for my lightweight Brompton uses a KT controller and LCD4 display. The motor wheel from my Swytch kit is directly interchangeable with the motor wheel from TopBikeKit.
November 3, 20232 yr One can select wp connectors or the SM block type which makes fault finding a doddle. One can fault find with wp connectors though you have to make bespoke Y leads to do so. fwiw the snipped off leg of a resistor or capacitor can be used to probe the female sockets of WP julet connectors. and female dupont jumper wire terminators can fit over the male prongs in plugs but may need LIGHT finger pressure to maintain contact but not too much as to bend pins.
November 4, 20232 yr Author Great stuff, thanks for all the good info,I now know what controller to buy thanks to you guys, next the battery, I think a 10 A.H, good quality downtube battery would be best for me, any recommendations ?? I was looking at this item Silver Fish Ebike Battery 36V 10Ah 15Ah 24V 15Ah 17.5Ah 18650 36V Battery Pack for Bafang 500W 350W 250W 180W Electric Bike on Aliexpress but I just don't know what quality it is . Edited November 4, 20232 yr by rig the jig
November 4, 20232 yr One can buy silver fish on ebay , I doubt prices will differ much. Aliexp dosen't add vat unti final checkout then one sees the true price inc the delivery, some sellers may have the cells etc in the specs if you scroll down the page . Generally they will be capabale mediocre cells that will do the job, Samsung, lg etc likely may be used unless china cells are stated. Post a link to any battery for us to see.
November 4, 20232 yr Author This is the battery https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004209965815.html as you can see I'm not great on computers..
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