Leaderboard

I wanted to borrow the lead from the last charger I got. When I opened it up, this is what I found. The wire colours are reversed. I mentioned a few days ago that it's quite common, but I thought maybe it's an old problem. Clearly, they're still doing it. It seems to be the rule rather than the exception. Be careful if you ever have to change a lead or connector on a charger. Always use a meter to check. Disregard any markings or colours.

I don't know whether everybody realises, but heavy people need proportionally more power to get up the same hills as you. In other words, If you weigh 70kg and have a 36v bike with 15A controller, a 110kg guy would need 48v and 17A to get up the same hill on the same bike with the same effort as you. If the 70kg rider rode the bike with 48v and 17A, it would feel ridiculously powerful, like a motorbike, but the 110kg rider's experience of that bike would be more or less identical to the 70kg rider's experience on the 36v one.

You can't go wrong with a bike from Woosh or Wisper. Choose hub drive, cadence sensor, biggest battery you can afford. Easy.

It's not the sensor that was the problem. Many/most of the OEM bikes and kits at the middle and lower end of the price scale use crappy speed control controllers that don't give you control over how much power they give. You can solve that by swapping the controller for a power control one, then you have the best choice of how much pedal effort you want to give and how much power the motor will give independently. If you want a power control controller, search for "KT controller", also known as Kunteng with various spellings. They have another advantage that you can fit a boost button that gives instant max power rather than going up and down the levels each time you come to a hump-back bridge or want max power to get you through a busy junction.

I’m another satisfied with the maximum the 250W continuous power law. I never feel my bike is underpowered, for example as a teenager I needed to stand on the peddles in first gear out of breath to crawl over the hill into town. Now in my 70s I can use full power at 12.5 to ,13 mph seated over the same hill. Yes I’m out of breath but not as much as I used to be. I could buy a moped and go faster but then I’d loose the freedoms of a bicycle, especially the use of the new cycle path that feels so good being separated from the increasingly dense traffic. 250W and bicycle rules are just right in my opinion.

CATL says sodium batteries are mainstream-ready, signs massive 60 GWh dealhttps://electrek.co/2026/04/27/catl-sodium-ion-battery-60gwh-energy-storage-deal/

Least bad would be correct, or least terrible, least frightening, least dreadful or something like that. Good, better, best; bad, worse, worst. More bad = worse, most bad = worst. By definition, if Labour is the worst, they can't be better than the others. The language is changing all the time, so it's sort of acceptable to say that. Many people don't use English correctly, e.g. in response to "How are you?", "I'm good" is often used. I'm good means well-behaved, not in good health, but so many people use the phrase now that it's accepted as correct, though it doesn't mean that it is. The correct response should be, "I'm well". In business language, "I'm good" is now given as a suitable response. "How's it going?": "It's going well". Nothing can go good, except in computer games where the need to improve is expressed as "git gud".

It's better now; however, you don't make clear the differences between a front and rear hub-motor. Reading what you wrote, and if I didn't know anything, I'd select a front motor. I don't agree with the statement about front motors being easier to install. Cable routing is harder. You have to file the dropouts of Q/R wheels. A rear 7-speed freewheel motor nearly always drops straight in. You need to make the advantages and disadvantages clearer. Also, you need to mention about the problem of axle slip with crank-drives and horizontal drop-outs. These are some points people need to consider when making the motor type choice: Front Hub-motor You have to file the drop-outs if you have a QR wheel The danger of drop-outs breaking or motor spin-out sending you over the handlebars The need for steel forks for any medium/high torque motor The additional inertia can upset the handling The added mass will compromise the suspension The motor cable has to deal with steering. Traction can be bad on loose surface or in low grip situations Higher noise from the motor Very reliable (apart from drop-out issues if not done properly) Rear Hub-motor The problem of offset that limits gears to 7 speed with a freewheel motor and is worse with most cassette motors. It's safer than front motor. Better traction Lower noise Doesn't compromise suspension forks Easier cable routing Better steering Very reliable The difficulties of wheel insertion/removal when you have horizontal drop-outs Crank-motor Under-gearing on bikes with small wheels Axle slip with horizontal and angled drop-outs More efficient for towing and steep hills with heavy loads. Higher transmission wear More gear-shifting than hub-motors Coarser ride Better weight distribution Doesn't affect front or rear suspension Noisier than rear hub-motor Less reliable than hub-motors Mostly easier to install than hub-motors

German Ebay normally has plenty or cheap new replacements.

Have We Overestimated the Probability of Alien Life in the Universe? Once I grasped the sheer number of stars and galaxies in the universe, it seemed almost inevitable that life must be common. It was easy to imagine that the “little green men” of science fiction—or perhaps something larger and more menacing—might inhabit planets orbiting countless stars. Looking up at the night sky felt like looking at a vast collection of potential civilisations we might one day communicate with. It’s an appealing idea. But is it realistic? How likely is it that alien life exists on planets orbiting the stars we can see with the naked eye? My partner, an optimistic soul, dismisses my doubts. To her, it’s simply a numbers game. The Milky Way alone contains roughly 400 billion stars, so it seems unlikely that our Sun and its planets are anything special. I understand that argument. Statistically, it feels improbable that we are unique. But that intuition may be misleading. If very specific conditions are required for life to begin, for it to persist, and for it to evolve into complex, intelligent forms capable of building technological civilisations, then rarity—not abundance—may be the more realistic conclusion. It is extraordinarily difficult for simple life to evolve into complex organisms such as animals. It is even rarer for those organisms to develop behaviours that extend beyond survival—beyond eating and reproducing—towards intelligence, culture, and technology. And it is harder still for a species like Homo sapiens to progress from hunter-gatherers to builders of machines capable of exploring or communicating across the stars. Our own history makes this clear: it took nearly 300,000 years for our species to reach that point. Why emphasise how difficult these steps are? Because Earth’s history demonstrates just how long and improbable they appear to be. The Earth formed around 4.5 billion years ago as a molten, hostile world, battered by collisions during the chaotic early solar system. A massive impact—likely with a Mars-sized body—created the Moon and left the young Earth a seething, molten sphere. It took millions of years to cool. Nearly a billion years later, life emerged. Not animals, but simple single-celled organisms—algae, slime-like colonies, and microscopic cells drifting in the oceans. For roughly two to two-and-a-half billion years, life on Earth remained single-celled. Then, in what appears to have been a singular event, complexity arose. One cell engulfed another and, instead of digesting it, formed a symbiotic relationship. This partnership—an evolutionary breakthrough—gave rise to more complex cells. It happened, as far as we can tell, only once. From that point, evolution continued its slow work. Yet it was not until about 500 million years ago—four billion years after Earth formed—that plants first colonised land. Animals followed tens of millions of years later. And humans? We arrived astonishingly late: roughly 4.4 billion years after the planet formed. We are newcomers on an ancient world. Even then, technological civilisation is a very recent development. The first crude steam engine appeared in 1712, improved later by James Watt. Radio communication dates back only about 130 years, to experiments by Guglielmo Marconi—a blink of an eye compared to Earth’s 4.5-billion-year history. All this suggests that the path from chemistry to intelligent, technological life is not straightforward. It is long, fragile, and contingent on many unlikely steps. Even on Earth, only one species out of millions has developed advanced technology. And Earth itself may be unusually well-suited for life. It orbits a stable, long-lived star. Of the eight planets in our solar system, only one supports life today. The others are either scorched or frozen, barren worlds. Habitability requires more than just a comfortable “Goldilocks” temperature. A planet must retain a dense atmosphere to keep water liquid—and that atmosphere must be protected. Here lies a crucial factor: a strong magnetic field. Stars emit radiation and charged particles capable of stripping away planetary atmospheres. Even our relatively calm Sun has done this to both Mercury and Mars. Mercury has no atmosphere at all, and Mars retains only a thin remnant of what was once a much thicker one. Mars likely had liquid water for up to a billion years or more. We can see evidence in its river valleys, deltas, and sedimentary rocks. But as the planet cooled, its internal dynamo shut down, its magnetic field weakened, and its atmosphere was gradually stripped away. Without sufficient pressure, liquid water could no longer exist on its surface. If this can happen in our own solar system, it raises a sobering point: many planets may begin with favourable conditions, only to lose them. Worse still, our Sun is relatively gentle. A large proportion of stars in the galaxy—particularly red dwarfs—are far more volatile, producing intense flares capable of stripping atmospheres from nearby planets with ease. Taken together, these factors suggest that while stars and planets may be abundant, the conditions required for life—and especially intelligent, technological life—are exceptionally demanding. For all the vastness of the cosmos, we may not be surrounded by thriving civilisations. Instead, life may be rare, fragile, and fleeting. On this remarkable planet, only one species has crossed the threshold into technology—and even we spent almost our entire existence using simple tools, struggling to survive. Perhaps the universe is full of worlds. But worlds like ours may be few.

They do fencing too?

I remember that 'leak'. I was about six, I think, and we saw a jolly treatment of the Calder Hall Fire on the local news, but quite a while after it had happened. The system was a graphite moderated pile like pigeon holes in a wall of graphite which they pushed fuel rods in and out of to control things. That's a rough and ready description. IT made some heat, but its primary purpose was to make plutonium for bombs. The system went wrong when the moderating mechanism went wrong and at least some of the control was lost and the graphite went on fire. It had a chimney on it and large amounts of radioactivity was escaping into the environment. It was kept completely secret, until the Swedes started kicking off about the levels of radioactivity that was showering down on them, and then it all came out - news managed with a cheerful commentary about how all would be well because the farmers around and about the plant were pouring their milk churns down the drains. I can still remember that black and white fuzzy 405 line television piece, and my mother complaining about the waste of good milk. At its worst there were eleven tonnes of uranium on fire and venting dangerous stuff to the environment. You can read about it here - it is worth a look. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Windscale_fire Many years later after the Chernobyl accident, in an amazing coincidence a survey of nuclear contamination in the Lake District discovered that there was high radioactivity on the Lake District fells and there were controls on the sale of sheep meat introduced. It was a pretty localised contamination which our lying government said was due to a cloud of nuclear fallout from Chernobyl having been washed down to the fells by a rain storm. I just don't believe that at all. It is my view that the area contaminated was down wind of Calder Hall - now called Windscale and that the contamination had been there since 1957 - hidden from the British Public, as had been the initial dangerous incident, until it was publicised by the Swedes. In fact - having just read the linked material below, I can say that about 50% of the radioactivity in the lamb was from the Windscale Fire in 1957. Nobody told us. That is how government in the UK works. During the same period, governments produced plans for controlling the population in the event of nuclear war. The advice to the public was to take off doors and put them at a 45% angle up against a wall and to sit under it with a label attached to you saying who you were. The REALLY strong message was that you should "STAY AT HOME". All about control - nothing about safety. https://share.google/aimode/zWzTLIxHZdaPkXlX5 Protect and survive film - You will laugh at this.

I bought amplifiers and pre-amplifiers from sinlair products at the time when tubes were still the goto products. Few consumers understood really what 'transistorised' even mean. He was visionary then. He cut the cost of production, shrank the size, weight and heat. His ZX80 was also revolutionary. Lightweight, cheap to make. Then the zx81 and the colour spectrum, then the sinclair drive. All visionary in their own way.

You'll need to speak with my contact at the Tattie Bogle Express - Sean McFaggot. I sent him the image that I had enlarged and he enhanced it for me. He said that Alternative News had special abilities at enhancing stuff so I just believed him. I suppose you can find his number on Google.

You should mention that Bafang also make and supply 52T chainwheels for BBS01B kits. Your symbolic 2D animations represent 3D poorly and make things look more complicated than they are. Becca demonstrates and explains it all better using video in antipodean 3D space. A clear series of explanatory videos is on her channel.

The 85ts kit is still a proprietary system from Tongsheng but that's just the wiring part to squeeze 11 wires into the standard 9-pin motor connector. I still believe that Tongsheng 85TS kit has legs, it's just a question of time. OTS = Off The Shelf: customers wanting a pre-packaged solution. I've every faith in the 85TS catching on and I hope you stock the larger models. The issue I think is that it needs selling to OTS customers as light, sleek and sophisticated (with nothing technical to read because tech -> unsure -> scary). To pedelecers sell it as 40Nm etc. like the 'old' 85TS page, bearing in mind that to us 'scary' means uncertainty: why can't I second source online (= is it a short-lived custom product); what's the Kv or Kt; will I have to demux the speed signal if I detest the controller (and let's face it, the delay on my 4yr old Lishui...). 85TS seems an ideal candidate to try selling both ways, separately.

I added a local-helpers.html page with basic pins. Will flesh it out at a later date. See it here: https://wooshbikes.co.uk/beta/info/local-helpers.html

Labour is hemmed in by the promise of no rise in VAT and income tax. Where will they find the money? Replacing Starmer won't change that and I am guessing that all political parties will repeat that 'no tax rise' promise at the next election. The electorate is as Johnson said 'pro cake and pro eating it'. They unfortunately will never learn. That's why we have Trump.

Amazing that this Mars Rover buggy has been operating on the surface of a frozen desert planet a hundred and forty million miles away for thirteen years. I was thinking that it must have a much better battery than my first e-bike, but then I discovered that it isn't as dependent on storing power as I thought. How is it powered? Here is a video explaining. It was made before the launch about fourteen years ago. NASA ScienceMars Rover Power - NASA ScienceCuriosity is the biggest robot explorer ever to rove Mars. How do you power something like that?

I'd run it off a separate rechargeable 3S2P lithium battery, like this one (3rd choice): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005012106283885.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller.4.2482j1S7j1S7Nk&gps-id=pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40050.354490.0&scm_id=1007.40050.354490.0&scm-url=1007.40050.354490.0&pvid=e0ca4baf-b291-4446-ad2e-da697d007d73&_t=gps-id%3ApcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller%2Cscm-url%3A1007.40050.354490.0%2Cpvid%3Ae0ca4baf-b291-4446-ad2e-da697d007d73%2Ctpp_buckets%3A668%232846%238116%232002&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%2249%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22sceneId%22%3A%2230050%22%2C%22fromPage%22%3A%22recommend%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21GBP%2126.50%218.57%21%21%21237.28%2176.78%21%40211b628117784222806296682e09e2%2112000057545108075%21rec%21UK%21137056759%21X%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29919%3Bd%3Adbd35664%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895%3BpisId%3A5000000206472265&utparam-url=scene%3ApcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005012106283885%7C_p_origin_prod%3A#nav-specification

When I click everything in the kit finder section on the front page, nothing happens because there's no link. It's confusing. Also, I'm not happy with the ticked points you put in the Crank Drive kit and Geared Hub Kit windows. They seem random and irrelevant. You have "road legal" in one, but not the other. I'd read that as the crank-drive kits are not legal, and same sort of thing with waterproof design. I have mixed feelings on the configurator. I'm not sure what benefit it offers. I tried the bike lookup thing, which sort of worked, but doesn't take into account model year, and some bikes completely changed from one year to the next. The AI found some specification, which is probably the latest spec. When you apply that, it still takes you to the wheel size page to enter it in case you have something different. In that case, you might as well throw away the bike lookup thing. Finally, I just noticed that under TSDZ02, you have written "Torque sensor - power proportional to effort", which I believe is false. There is a relationship between effort and power, but it's not proportional, and you wouldn't want it to be. My experience from my bike is that the power is 2-stage: low for low pedal effort and high when you cross some threshold of pedal effort, but there's also some smoothing so it doesn't surge on pedal strokes. That wouldn't bother me, but you have to be careful with Advertising Standards and Trade Descriptions. You could change it to "Torque sensor - control power with your pedals" or something like that. Considering everything, I'm thinking that you'd be better off without the configurator. Just leave a box that says that if you want guidance on the best kit to fit, please call and we'd be happy to advise. Maybe I'm old-fashioned. I think this is just trying to find something for AI to do. It's not particularly helpful, just like all the AI bots that waste your time asking irrelevant questions, when you know that only a real person can sort out your issue.

Well on Wednesday I went for the test ride and could find very little to fault the Brompton kitted out with the ARCC system.... So I bought it! I'll post a review soon

According to the specifications, both are 36v. The Woosh has a 15A controller and the Yose has a 12A one. The Woosh can therefore provide 25% more power. A motor can trade speed for torque. The torque of any motor is proportional to the current. When you put that all together, the Yose motor would have exactly half the max speed of the Woosh to get that amount of torque. The conclusions, therefore are that: The torque figures are complete BS The Woosh bike has a max speed of about 30mph and is hopelessly inefficient at 15 mph The Yose motor is optimised for max power at 7.5 mph and has a max speed (OTR) of about 9 mph. Which ebike sytem to suit you depends on your weight, your fitness and attitude to pedal effort, the hills you have to ride up, and the distance you need to go. You haven't told us any of that, so no advice on alternatives can be given. Personally, I don't think torque sensors provide any significant advantages, and the disadvantages of weight, reliability and availability of spares far outweigh any advantages unless you have some niche riding circumstances that would change that. Those small bottle batteries are quite highly stressed, so they don't last long. Only get one if weight is an important factor for you.

When bought a YOSE 48V battery I got messages from them telling me not to fit it to an AKM /Yose 350w motor . I don’t think they like fitting to the 250 W one either said it’s was for a 500W. I find the Bafang 250W motor works well with 48V lots of Torque. 13.5 AH range not great so I just carry a spare in a pannier bag or bungee it to the rear rack . So definitely go for a 250W if you are sticking with AKM which are good motors and a bit cheaper . But also try find a Bafang 250W from some of the older bikes Pendelton Somerby for instance

Picture height now sorted and web site looking much better. I’ve also tried using the site on my phone. Looking good and easy to use.

Very few OEM hub bikes and cheap China bikes will have current control systems, occasionally a sensible seller/producer will use a KT system but this is rare so 99.99% of hub bikes will have crappy speed control and that will also include mid drive bikes that don't use Torque sensing.

You can get those batteries from Aliexpress for well under £200. Here's one. Have a search around to find a cheaper one. 36V 48V Li-ion E-Bike Batteries Pack 10.4ah 12ah 12.8ah 14ah for Magnum Mountain Seat Post Electric Bike Battery A2B Kuo Akku

Yes,exactly that. It has a double clutch arrangement, with each working in a different direction of rotation. The controller reverses the direction of the motor to use one clutch or the other, so it doesn't need a physical shifting arrangement. The only downside is that you have to be careful not to push hard when you reverse the bike for any reason, like getting it out of the shed, because you can damage the internal gears. Also, they're a bit wider than a normal motor, so you need to be clever with the installation. I used one for about 2 years, starting with 36v and 15A, which was fine, then I upgraded to 48v, which was complete overkill to the extent that I was only using the high gear to get all the torque I needed, so I switched to a normal geared hub-motor at 48v. One other thing is that they become a bit noisy after about 1000 miles due to the idle clutch arrangement, so need re-greasing if you don't want pedestrians to hear you coming. The cleverest part is the shifting. It's so simple. The controller, like all controllers, measures the current. When the motor slows down under load, the current increases. When it reaches a certain level, it triggers the shifting. The controller simply makes a slight pause, then reverses the motor, so you get automatic shifting as you slow down up a hil. You also get the option of manual shifting with a button, which I preferred in order to get the ideal (for me) shifting point.

People can get the power they want/need on an electric bicycle without resorting to a motorbike. Different people of different weight and fitness have different requirements. They can all enjoy electric bikes if they get the right one for them.

My own bike (a conversion) has a controller that gives 20A on maximum setting, giving a maximum 720w @36 v. Yet the motor is rated at 250w and the speed limited to 15.5mph, so legal. I live in very hilly west Wales. I have no complaints.

Deepfakes Are Coming for Your Bank AccountOpenAI made the perfect tool for scammers. The AtlanticDeepfakes Are Coming for Your Bank AccountOpenAI made the perfect tool for scammers.

The meter has two probes that are black and red. If they have sockets in the meter that they plug into, make sure that they are plugged into the right ones, which will also be black and red. Set the meter to measure DC voltage. Sometimes, when you have a big dial-type selector on the front of the meter, the voltage is divided up 0v to 20v, 0v to 200v, etc. Choose the 0 to 200v. With the charger switched on, put the red probe on the brown wire and the black wire on the blue one. If the brown wire is the positive, there will be no minus sign in front of the reading. If the brown is the negative, there will be a "-" in front of the result, like -42.0v. Be careful not to let the two probes touch each other while touching the wires because it will blow the fuse.

CIA Reportedly Used Secret Quantum Tool To Find Downed Airman in IranThe secret technology uses long-range quantum magnetometry to find the electromagnetic fingerprint of a human heartbeat and pairs the data with artificial intelligence software to isolate the signature from background noise, two sources close to the breakthrough said. https://tech.slashdot.org/story/26/04/08/0152253/cia-reportedly-used-secret-quantum-tool-to-find-downed-airman-in-iran

on club rides........... .........you were never allowed to fix your own problem because everyone else insisted on doing it...........

Mostly, I don't take anything, but if I would go on a long trip and I wanted to be sure I'd make it, I'd take my bike multitool, that has all the allen keys, screwdrivers, chain repairer, spoke adjusters, etc., on it and a puncture repair kit that includes a mini-pump. Everything can fit in the small under-seat toolbag that contains my controller. It's been about 10 years since I ever had to adjust anying while I'm out, and 10 years since I had a puncture on my electric bike. The only times I've had to fix anything was on a new build. I had to let some brake fluid out once because I'd over-filled, and another time a crank came loose.

That IS a chestnut. Dont much like rayner or reeves either. But, if both of us take a giant step back, transcend our parochial prejudices - and stop ourselves from qouting gazillion news reports at each other about labour, reform, tory et al's scandals about being funded by offshore capital, hedge funds - wed have to recognise all parties in this nominal democracy of ours are utterly rotten. About cronyism, tax havens. One cant blame voters for voting for populist bellends either. Whats the alternative? Trump's not an anomaly, via rayner were heading for our own version of him.

It won't tell us a lot about what REFORM would want to do actually. Why? Because the vast majority of what local government MUST DO is dictated by central government. "In 2024/25, local authorities in England are spending an estimated 68.5% of their total revenue budget on mandated, demand-led services, primarily adult and children’s social care. This represents a significant increase from 53% in 2009/10, illustrating that statutory, high-cost services are increasingly crowding out discretionary local spending."

Yle UutisetSuomalainen yritys keksi vaarallisille litiumakuille vaih...Nordic Nano Group on kehittänyt ympäristöystävällistä akkuteknologiaa, joka voisi korvata vaaralliset litiumakut.92024, as good as confirming the scam. So the commercial director could not be persuaded to go along with/continue the scam. Edit - a reddit lists it and others dating back as far as 2021. They even forged one test report ! A comment also mentions cost. About €50,000 for a 1kwh battery.

Donut Lab Solid-State Battery — The Printer | Where a Quasi-Capacitor Becomes SSB (Ep.15)

Like magic. Gone. Just like that.

It depends on the age, but I think you're out because the Ebco UCR30 has the Tranzx electrical system that uses CANbus comms.

I checked the weather data for that day, 10th October 1957 and the winds were westerly - blowing iodine 131, caesium 137, plutonium 239 and 240, Polonium 210, and strontium 90 all over me as a six year old playing out with my mates about 82 mils down wind in Newcastle upon Tyne. As it happens, it didn't do me any harm and I find it useful that I glow in the dark and can find my way on moonless nights by the soft glow of my nuclear charge. I was certainly contaminated and so was everybody else who lived down wind of it. Eighty Two miles downwind -

Just received the battery. So after initial phone call at 4.30pm yesterday. Excellent

Crypto Faces Increased Threat From Quantum Attacks“Quantum safe” cryptography techniques are still under development https://spectrum.ieee.org/quantum-safe-crypto

Stardust in the Clouds of Venus.https://www.universetoday.com/articles/stardust-in-the-clouds-of-venus

Saturn’s largest moon could see 10-foot waves from a tiny breezeSurf's up, Titan. https://www.popsci.com/science/saturn-moon-titan-big-waves/

Mark Zuckerberg reportedly working on AI clone of himself — Meta insiders claim 3D photoreal animated Zuck will be able to engage with employees on his behalfhttps://www.tomshardware.com/tech-industry/artificial-intelligence/mark-zuckerberg-reportedly-working-on-ai-clone-of-himself-meta-insiders-claim-3d-photoreal-animated-zuck-will-be-able-to-engage-with-employees-on-his-behalf

Quantum computing: A tech race Europe could win?https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/c20q4nv89yzo

NASA’s Dragonfly will explore the air, land and seas of Titan, Saturn’s most mysterious moon NASA plans to launch a wildly ambitious nuclear-powered octocopter to Saturn’s largest moon, Titan, in 2028 Scientific AmericanNASA’s Dragonfly will go where no nuclear-powered rotorcr...NASA plans to launch a wildly ambitious nuclear-powered octocopter to Saturn’s largest moon, Titan, in 2028

As a rough guide, if you buy quality generic kit from the likes of Woosh (https://wooshbikes.co.uk/) expect around £500-£600. A lot depends on the battery capacity. You can get similar kit from Yose (https://www.yosepower.co.uk/collections/e-bike-conversion-kit) probably a bit cheaper. Beware a lot of their kits are nominal 350w motors, which makes them not legal as a pedalec. If you decide exactly what bits you want you can go a lot cheaper from Ali Express or similar. Alternatively, you might go for a more upmarket system like Cytronex (https://www.cytronex.com/). This will set you back around £1000, even with quite a low capacity battery. Also, any spares are likely to be expensive, with the risk of their becoming unavailable. One of the lightest systems, partly because of relatively low power and low capacity battery. You will need to decide if you want crank, rear hub or front hub assistance. Lots about that on the forum. If you go for rear hub you will lose your nice rear wheel. If you go for crank you may well lose the front clanger. Front hub is generally less liked, but can be good on a tandem. More weight on the front wheel reduces the risk of front wheel scrubbing on gravelly hills, and you get two wheel drive with no need to compromise on gears and rear wheel. Swytch is a common option, but not generally liked here. Their expertise is marketing rather than technical or support.