February 1, 20224 yr Author It's not a washer, it is a torque arm. It is a engineering difference and term. Sorry I meant torque arm not washer. "We all make mistakes, as the hedgehog said to the wire brush"
February 1, 20224 yr Sorry I meant torque arm not washer. "We all make mistakes, as the hedgehog said to the wire brush" That wire brush is wearing thin now
February 1, 20224 yr Author It's not a washer, it is a torque arm. It is a engineering difference and term. I’m still bit amazed how that axle managed to twist the cable as it had a anti rotation washer, on axle plus also the torque washer too which was tied with cable tie as well But it must have been like you said Edited February 1, 20224 yr by billyboya
February 2, 20224 yr I’m still bit amazed how that axle managed to twist the cable as it had a anti rotation washer, on axle plus also the torque washer too which was tied with cable tie as well But it must have been like you said The axle twisted because the bolt was missing, so the torque washer was not attached to the dropout. Remove that grommet from the cable, it doesn't help and will make refitting the wheel more difficult. Make sure the cable points downwards when you fit the wheel and leave a loop before you cable tie it to the frame, this helps keep water out of the motor. You need another torque arm on the other side, otherwise you run the risk of snapping the axle on a heavy bike like yours. If your axle measures 14mm, one of these will do the job, but you will need to drill out 1 hole to 6mm to bolt to the frame and a few washers. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144022861014?hash=item21886e74d6:g:ASAAAOSwr9RgK9~B
February 2, 20224 yr I didn't mention that the torque washer was ineffective as once it was known the Torque arm bolt was never fitted, the rotation would have been inevitable and obvious.
February 2, 20224 yr Author The axle twisted because the bolt was missing, so the torque washer was not attached to the dropout. Remove that grommet from the cable, it doesn't help and will make refitting the wheel more difficult. Make sure the cable points downwards when you fit the wheel and leave a loop before you cable tie it to the frame, this helps keep water out of the motor. You need another torque arm on the other side, otherwise you run the risk of snapping the axle on a heavy bike like yours. If your axle measures 14mm, one of these will do the job, but you will need to drill out 1 hole to 6mm to bolt to the frame and a few washers. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144022861014?hash=item21886e74d6:g:ASAAAOSwr9RgK9~B Oh so you think its a bad idea, having a grommet at top of axle hole, as I thought it would help cable I have asked Erider for another torque washer like this one, as I only have 1 on cable side, they said they will check in stock if they have any, But do you think its best to get the torque ones you said and how do you fit those, as I can see what part go onto axle the square bit but what's other piece for or go. can you do a diagram when you fit the wheel and leave a loop before you cable tie it to the frame, I don't understand how do you mean leave a loop the square part of axle takes a 10mm spanner so would axle be about 12mm Edited February 2, 20224 yr by billyboya
February 2, 20224 yr Author I didn't mention that the torque washer was ineffective as once it was known the Torque arm bolt was never fitted, the rotation would have been inevitable and obvious. But on cable side I did have that black torque washer tied with a cable tie in the hole plus had also a anti rotation washer too. But obvious nothing on opp side of axle so would that have caused all this
February 2, 20224 yr I have asked Erider for another torque washer like this one, as I only have 1 on cable side, they said they will check in stock if they have any, But do you think its best to get the torque ones you said If Erider have one, then go for that, you also need a anti rotation washer to go with it. I don't understand how do you mean leave a loop Some slack in the cable, hanging a couple of inches below the axle. the square part of axle takes a 10mm spanner so would axle be about 12mm The axle size is across the threads, if a 14mm spanner fits, then it's 14mm. But on cable side I did have that black torque washer tied with a cable tie in the hole plus had also a anti rotation washer too. But obvious nothing on opp side of axle so would that have caused all this A cable tie is not a suitable replacement for a bolt, was it still there when you inspected the bike after breakdown?
February 2, 20224 yr Author If Erider have one, then go for that, you also need a anti rotation washer to go with it. Yes they said they will check there stock, Ive already got the bolts for them Some slack in the cable, hanging a couple of inches below the axle. ok I'm with you now so you say its best not to have that grommet at top of cable, do this look better now A cable tie is not a suitable replacement for a bolt, was it still there when you inspected the bike after breakdown? To be honest I cant remember now
February 3, 20224 yr ok I'm with you now so you say its best not to have that grommet at top of cable, do this look better now Not really, if you look at the axle where the cable exits, you will see the rounded chamfer, which is designed to let the cable sit at a nice gentle angle and avoid nasty kinks, which can cause damage. If you want to cable tie the cable, put 1 or 2 on the inside of motor where it comes out of the axle. This will avoid putting strain on your solder joints if the cable is pulled from the outside. a blob of grease/silicon on the outside after the motor is fitted will prevent water ingress.
February 3, 20224 yr Author Not really, if you look at the axle where the cable exits, you will see the rounded chamfer, which is designed to let the cable sit at a nice gentle angle and avoid nasty kinks, which can cause damage. If you want to cable tie the cable, put 1 or 2 on the inside of motor where it comes out of the axle. This will avoid putting strain on your solder joints if the cable is pulled from the outside. a blob of grease/silicon on the outside after the motor is fitted will prevent water ingress. ok I will remove that tie then. yes I have cable tied inside motor wires. I will also like you said leave a loop at axle end then just cable tie to frame. yes also I have added a blob of grease/silicon to outsides of motor case https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/123126491591
February 4, 20224 yr In post #3 the 3rd and 4th photographs both show significant damage to the threads on the fixed axle. I doubt that you will be able to tighten the nuts sufficiently, no matter how many locking washers, torque arms and split washers you put on, in order to stop the torque twisting the wheel out of the dropouts. You might get lucky with a thread restorer nut, or a thread file. Don't be tempted to use titanium nuts, stay with steel. Clean up the rust, repeat, clean up the rust and smear a very very thin layer of waterproof grease with your finger on the exposed surfaces. Good luck.
February 4, 20224 yr Author In post #3 the 3rd and 4th photographs both show significant damage to the threads on the fixed axle. I doubt that you will be able to tighten the nuts sufficiently, no matter how many locking washers, torque arms and split washers you put on, in order to stop the torque twisting the wheel out of the dropouts. You might get lucky with a thread restorer nut, or a thread file. Don't be tempted to use titanium nuts, stay with steel. Clean up the rust, repeat, clean up the rust and smear a very very thin layer of waterproof grease with your finger on the exposed surfaces. Good luck. Hi would this do to clean threads, as I dont have any choice to do it another way. I believe the axle is 14mm https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/383298803044? Edited February 4, 20224 yr by billyboya
February 4, 20224 yr It's hard to say, depending on your skill level and how damaged they are. I've used a thread file but he also used a Wheel Stud Hub Thread Restorer**M12 x 1.25**M12 x 1.5**M14 x 1.5mm 3 Dies to repair threads. You will definitely need new nuts, and each time you thread the old ones back onto the axle, you are damaging it more. You might just be heading down a rabbit hole, and be better off buying a new rear hub motor kit and use the broken one to take a chance with honing your mechanical skills?
February 4, 20224 yr Author It's hard to say, depending on your skill level and how damaged they are. I've used a thread file but he also used a Wheel Stud Hub Thread Restorer**M12 x 1.25**M12 x 1.5**M14 x 1.5mm 3 Dies to repair threads. You will definitely need new nuts, and each time you thread the old ones back onto the axle, you are damaging it more. You might just be heading down a rabbit hole, and be better off buying a new rear hub motor kit and use the broken one to take a chance with honing your mechanical skills? Whats a rear hub motor kit. its a electric moped I think why this cable twisted was because on the opposite side of wheel I never had any rotation or torque washers I maybe wrong
February 4, 20224 yr Author You must be kidding, or else a troll. I'm out of this thread. What you on about, I didn't realise at 1st what you meant, as I'm not all that good at this stuff sorry you feel that way, but thanks anyway
February 4, 20224 yr I wouldn't worry about the axle threads /nuts as they have stayed put and haven't come loose yet. Simply get the Torque arms fitted on both side and secure them utilising that threaded tap hole, if bothered about the scaremongering of ruined threads clean them and the nuts with isopropanol and then apply some loctite thread compound. I have an ebike with worn threads and have yet to have the nut loosen once tightened up.
February 4, 20224 yr Ok, fair enough. Good luck with fixing the moped using the tips above ^ I think it might help if you post a photo of the whole moped?
February 4, 20224 yr Author Ok, fair enough. Good luck with fixing the moped using the tips above ^ I think it might help if you post a photo of the whole moped? if you look at my profile its an Erider model 15
February 4, 20224 yr Author I wouldn't worry about the axle threads /nuts as they have stayed put and haven't come loose yet. Simply get the Torque arms fitted on both side and secure them utilising that threaded tap hole, if bothered about the scaremongering of ruined threads clean them and the nuts with isopropanol and then apply some loctite thread compound. I have an ebike with worn threads and have yet to have the nut loosen once tightened up. do you mean this. do it make a seal to stop nuts turning https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224595797056? Edited February 4, 20224 yr by billyboya
February 4, 20224 yr Loctite sell a number of spec'd thread lock depending on the severity /force one want's a nut to be held in place. The 243 is a pretty medium universal thread lock to use and doesn't need the axle /nut to be spotlessly clean, the compound acts like a nylon lock nut and will take up any play there is between threads. Edited February 4, 20224 yr by Nealh
February 4, 20224 yr Author I have just fitted wheel temp to test a new throttle, now when you press down on throttle back wheel locks up, cant really understand this now as it worked fine before, it dont even run now I soldered the 3 phase wires blue to blue, green to green, and yellow to yellow. also soldered 5 sensor wires to the board correct too
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